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Posted on: 12/11/13 10:32 AM ET
No doubt this question has been raised here before, but instead of wading through all the posts, I'll ask again 
I have made a couple sleeveless dresses and the armscye seems crazy wide - nobody likes a girl with side bewb flapping in the breeze. I have realized that if I reach up and pinch the shoulder seams about an inch in everything is perfect. Any suggested alteration I can do on a nearly complete lined bodice? What kind of pattern adjustments do I need to do...you know...before I rush in all willy nilly just keeping my fingers crossed things will magically work out? My sewing fairy is not very reliable.
Photo
-- Edited on 12/12/13 5:25 AM --
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I have made a couple sleeveless dresses and the armscye seems crazy wide - nobody likes a girl with side bewb flapping in the breeze. I have realized that if I reach up and pinch the shoulder seams about an inch in everything is perfect. Any suggested alteration I can do on a nearly complete lined bodice? What kind of pattern adjustments do I need to do...you know...before I rush in all willy nilly just keeping my fingers crossed things will magically work out? My sewing fairy is not very reliable.

Photo
-- Edited on 12/12/13 5:25 AM --
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“Your beliefs become your thoughts,
Your thoughts become your words,
Your words become your actions,
Your actions become your habits,
Your habits become your values,
Your values become your destiny.”
― Mahatma Gandhi
Your thoughts become your words,
Your words become your actions,
Your actions become your habits,
Your habits become your values,
Your values become your destiny.”
― Mahatma Gandhi
Posted on: 12/11/13 11:17 AM ET
In reply to Tonya P
I couldn't see the photo, but that could be because I'm at work.
The first thing I thought was are you cutting the correct size for your neck and shoulders? I need a full bust adjustment but before I understood this I would choose a pattern to fit my chest and it wouldn't fit anywhere else, including the shoulders.
I also need a sloped shoulder adjustment. That works well for me and I don't have to mess with making an adjustment to the sleeve.
I don't know if either one of these will work for you, but it's what worked for me when I had shoulder issues.
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The first thing I thought was are you cutting the correct size for your neck and shoulders? I need a full bust adjustment but before I understood this I would choose a pattern to fit my chest and it wouldn't fit anywhere else, including the shoulders.
I also need a sloped shoulder adjustment. That works well for me and I don't have to mess with making an adjustment to the sleeve.
I don't know if either one of these will work for you, but it's what worked for me when I had shoulder issues.
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Fabric sewn in 2016 - 66.5 yds
Posted on: 12/11/13 11:34 AM ET
On the nearly completed dress, I don't have a helpful suggestion, sorry, but I also have been having a lot more success with patterns since I started cutting the bodice (especially upper chest and shoulders) in smaller sizes. Good luck, dress is very pretty!
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Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d
Posted on: 12/11/13 11:37 AM ET
I'm assuming this is the actual dress, not a muslin? Since you have a princess seam going into the armseye, try smoothing the side panel up and under that princess seam, it's like taking a little dart, but hiding it in the seam. (Your seam allowances will no longer be even.) And if your neckline already fits the way you like it, there is nothing sacred about the seam allowance width - if you need to make that s/a wider at the shoulder point than at the neckline, go ahead.
For the next dress - try pinching out the distance from the pattern itself - and make a muslin first. I always need to take length from above the bust line, not below as most tutorials and fitting patterns show. I do it on a straight horizontal line halfway between the bust-point and the shoulder point. It's a little harder, because you need to make a corresponding shift on your sleeve, neckline and facing patterns and then smooth all the stitching/cutting lines. But it makes the difference between custom fitting and RTW approximation.
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For the next dress - try pinching out the distance from the pattern itself - and make a muslin first. I always need to take length from above the bust line, not below as most tutorials and fitting patterns show. I do it on a straight horizontal line halfway between the bust-point and the shoulder point. It's a little harder, because you need to make a corresponding shift on your sleeve, neckline and facing patterns and then smooth all the stitching/cutting lines. But it makes the difference between custom fitting and RTW approximation.
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Measure twice, cut once. While this saying is useful in many ways, I have no qualms about editing my posts.
Posted on: 12/11/13 3:11 PM ET
If you have a forward shoulder and/or are petite, taking a small horizontal tuck on your pattern all the way across the front bodice between the bust and shoulder (at approximately the place shown by the dotted line in the left-hand drawing) reduces excess fabric at the front bodice and shortens the armscye. Be sure to alter your sleeve accordingly to shorten the front sleevecap.

-- Edited on 12/11/13 6:01 PM --
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-- Edited on 12/11/13 6:01 PM --
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http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
=================
2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far
Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95
2009? I give up
=================
2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far
Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95
2009? I give up
Posted on: 12/11/13 5:10 PM ET
Pretty dress! I honestly can't see the problem in that photo, though. :)
My normal order of construction is to turn through the shoulder straps and sew those last, anyway, so *for me* it would be easiest to just make that adjustment right there (and I have done this after the fact, as well). Grab your seam ripper (you might want a scalpel type) and unpick the shoulders. Sew the new shoulder seams as normal, then line everything up again and press it until it's all smooth and beautiful. Then use a ladder stitch to close up the sides and neckline. Easy-peasy and invisible.
Great ladder stitch tutorial: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CjOXMuTFXo (Shown on a pillow, but works great for any place you need to close up a seam invisibly, from the outside.)
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My normal order of construction is to turn through the shoulder straps and sew those last, anyway, so *for me* it would be easiest to just make that adjustment right there (and I have done this after the fact, as well). Grab your seam ripper (you might want a scalpel type) and unpick the shoulders. Sew the new shoulder seams as normal, then line everything up again and press it until it's all smooth and beautiful. Then use a ladder stitch to close up the sides and neckline. Easy-peasy and invisible.
Great ladder stitch tutorial: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CjOXMuTFXo (Shown on a pillow, but works great for any place you need to close up a seam invisibly, from the outside.)
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~Elizabeth in the prairie
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
Posted on: 12/11/13 5:58 PM ET
In reply to Tonya P
What you are describing is a standard alteration for me! I am petite (158cm or 5'2") and I find I am 'short' between the bust and shoulder but not between waist and bust. Lifting the shoulders can be a shortcut petite alteration.
Stirwaterblue has given you some good advice about fixing the current garment. I would confirm sings2high and nicegirls advice for future garments to consider doing a petite adjustment to your pattern before you cut and sew. Experiment with taking around 1/2" out between the bust and shoulder (front and back, plus sleeves if any). Some instructions recommend scooping out the arm scye to compensate for the adjustment but I find it is not necessary for me - you will need to experiment here. Like sings2high I need the adjustment between bust and shoulder rather than between bust and waist which is where most 'petite' patterns show the alteration.
La Sewista has a blog post here and you can find other info on the net.
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Stirwaterblue has given you some good advice about fixing the current garment. I would confirm sings2high and nicegirls advice for future garments to consider doing a petite adjustment to your pattern before you cut and sew. Experiment with taking around 1/2" out between the bust and shoulder (front and back, plus sleeves if any). Some instructions recommend scooping out the arm scye to compensate for the adjustment but I find it is not necessary for me - you will need to experiment here. Like sings2high I need the adjustment between bust and shoulder rather than between bust and waist which is where most 'petite' patterns show the alteration.
La Sewista has a blog post here and you can find other info on the net.
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Jenny, Perth, WA
Posted on: 12/11/13 6:49 PM ET
Tonya - the shoulder pinch is a simple and wonderful adjustment. I use it on RTW, as well as things I sew for myself. My favourite was a gorgeous sleeveless top dug out of a bargain bin for $5. Shoulder pinch and BAM! fab top that gets rave compliments every time I wear it.
And yes, a petite here, too.
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And yes, a petite here, too.------
http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.
Posted on: 12/12/13 5:32 AM ET
In reply to plumfan
@Plumfan, it is possible I am cutting the wrong size. My measurements generally put me between three different sizes. The first dress I erred on the side of caution and made the larger size. The second dress I took down a size and while it fit better in every area, I still have the gap in the armscye. After I finish my current project, I am going to make a muslin and toy around with all the great advice I have gotten here. Thank you so very much!
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“Your beliefs become your thoughts,
Your thoughts become your words,
Your words become your actions,
Your actions become your habits,
Your habits become your values,
Your values become your destiny.”
― Mahatma Gandhi
Your thoughts become your words,
Your words become your actions,
Your actions become your habits,
Your habits become your values,
Your values become your destiny.”
― Mahatma Gandhi
Posted on: 12/12/13 5:35 AM ET
In reply to kkkkaty
@kkkkaty, Thanks for the suggestion. I had thought about blending sizes, but have no idea how to manage that. Now I know all I had to do was ask! LOL! Another great idea I will toy with on a muslin.
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“Your beliefs become your thoughts,
Your thoughts become your words,
Your words become your actions,
Your actions become your habits,
Your habits become your values,
Your values become your destiny.”
― Mahatma Gandhi
Your thoughts become your words,
Your words become your actions,
Your actions become your habits,
Your habits become your values,
Your values become your destiny.”
― Mahatma Gandhi
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