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Member since 9/4/04
Posts: 348
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Re: silk - pattern layout (posted on 6/30/05 4:09 AM ET)
I'm making a pair of silk PJ's for my DBF's father. Whan I bought the silk the saleslady told me that I could lay the pattern pieces either crossgrain or lengthwise. The fabric has stripes that go crossgrain and according to her I could turn the fabric to get the stripes to go lengthwise. Is this true?

TIA


-- Edited on 6/30/05 6:19 AM --
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Maja

"Only creativity brings us close to paradise." (Hundertwasser)



  
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 748
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Posted on: 6/30/05 7:08 AM ET
I don't see no reason why you couldn't do it, just to be on the safe side you might like to prewash the silk, although I don't think it will change much. :-)
  
Member since 11/30/04
Posts: 416
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Posted on: 6/30/05 9:07 AM ET
The drape is different on the cross. It is less drapey. The lengthwise grain has more drape. For PJ's, you probably wouldn't be concerned with how much drape. Also, the fabric is more stable on the lengthwise grain. Over time, a garment cut on the cross, will bag uneven. You wouldn't really want to make a heirloom dress cut on the cross because eventually gravity would make the hem crooked. When an heirloom dress is cut on the lengthwise grain, over time the hem will remain just like the day you sewed it.
It all has to do with the weaving loom that made the fabric. The lengthwise grain are the warp threads which are tightly stretched and held between two drums. The crosswise grain is the weft threads that are woven in and out of the warp.
Now a days, the weaving is so good that the cross is pretty good and stable, but still not as good as the warp.
I should think that you could use the cross grain for PJ's without much notice of grain difference.
  
Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 6/30/05 11:46 AM ET
In reply to linda_maries
Thank you very much for such a good explanation of the "why" of cross and lengthwise grains.

Nina
  
Member since 9/4/04
Posts: 348
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Posted on: 6/30/05 4:05 PM ET
Thank you linda_maries for a great explanation :)

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Maja

"Only creativity brings us close to paradise." (Hundertwasser)



  
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