PatternReview.com online sewing community
Join our community of 579,261 sewists!
SIGNUP Membership is free and includes 1 free lesson
Login |
Join our community of 579,261 sewists!
Signup | Login
To participate in the PatternReview.com forums please Login or Join PatternReview
Member since 3/11/04
Posts: 22
Send Message
Posted on: 7/1/05 8:13 PM ET
I am having a hard time adjusting a regular waistband pattern to fit my slim hips and thick waist (30" waist - 37"hips). I think I have a sway back also since the waistband gaps at the back.

I was wondering if a contour-waisted pant would eliminate the waistband problem. If this would be my answer, would I choose a pattern to fit my hip measurement and ignore the waist measurement?

I NEED to find a pants pattern that fits. I tried an elastic waist for a pair of shorts and hate it!

Thanks, Carol
  
Member since 3/2/04
Posts: 2073
Send Message
Posted on: 7/3/05 5:26 AM ET
No matter what style of pants you choose, you'll need to fit them to your shape. It's rare that a pattern fits perfectly without alterations. Buying a pattern that's big enough for your hips is a good idea, but I wouldn't ignore the waist measurement. Just add extra width in the waist when cutting, if necessary. Measure the pattern and compare to your measurements, to know how much to add.

It's possible that the rise needs to be lengthened in the back, so the waistband is up at your waistline. This could be why the waistband gaps. A straight-cut waistband won't work to go around the curve of your hips, if the pants are lower than your waist. This could be why you're thinking a contour waistband would work better for you.

If the pants do come up to your waistline, yet still gap, it could be that you need to take in the darts in the back. Be sure to stay-stitch the waistline of your fabric [so it can't stretch out], then do a pin fitting, putting them on wrong-side-out, before you add the waistband.
------
Ardis

the lefthanded daughter of a lefthanded mother
  
Member since 11/30/04
Posts: 6459
Body Type:
Send Message
Posted on: 7/3/05 9:35 AM ET
PFRP has a great illustration to make a contoured waistband larger for the waist. I found it after working with a skirt for my daughter with a contoured waistband, Duh! Thankfully, I ended up not needing to make the waistband larger for her, but if I make pants up from the pattern for myself, I will be revisiting this part of the book.

I would choose by the hip, but pin-fit to determine the amount of ease. Usually choosing by my hip size necessitates a full-length vertical tuck because a size 12 or 14 pant leg is too baggy.
------
Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight, Bernina 1630. Sergers: Babylock Enlighten and Babylock Ovation. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.
Certified Palmer/Pletsch Pants Fitting Instructor
Blog: 21stcenturydiy.blogspot.com
  
* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it.
Selected Reviews, Classes & Patterns