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Moderated by EleanorSews
Posted on: 3/7/14 4:17 PM ET
Hello everyone and thanks in advance for your help! I am a brand new...and when I say brand new...I mean like just decided to teach myself to sew and ran out last week and bought a sewing machine and fabric and patterns and notions/supplies and all that fun stuff. Sat down, watched a ton of videos on how to use my sewing machine and studied terminology and reading patterns and I GET all of it for the most part. Last night I laid out and cut the majority of my pattern pieces....and while it felt awkward b/c I was afraid to mess it up..I think I got all that part right. UNTIL today....the pattern I have is really throwing me for a loop now b/c there is a contrasting fabric that needs to be cut for one of the pattern pieces and also an interfacing. I saved those for today's task and now I am stumped. The pattern is simplicity #6202 and for the contrast piece it tells me to to cut double thickness (NO FOLD) where the selvages are on opposite sides of each other and the only special cutting notes say 1) for folded AND double layer fabric place fabric with right sides inside and pin pattern on wrong side and 2) "for with and without nap layouts (this pattern only shows WITH nap layout however) ensure fabric is placed with nap or design running in the same direction".
OK...well my fabric does have a design running lengthwise (sort of striped colors with kitty cats and butterflies inside the colors)...but regardless if the pattern layout is WITH nap anyway, why does the picture show it as double thickness using 2 pieces as opposed to just telling me to fold it crosswise and NOT place the pieces on the fold??? I read where some patterns have special instructions that tell them to draw arrows on the selvages that show the direction of the pattern and then cut the fold and rotate the top piece 180 degrees so that the arrows point the same way.....(my pattern does NOT give those instructions) but when I rotate my top piece 180 degrees THAT makes my arrows run opposite directions...so if I don't have to rotate after folding crosswise to keep my design running the same way WHY does the picture show double thickness (as though it's been cut and placed on top) as opposed to just folded and then cut away from the fold??
Sorry for such a long novel here, but I'm just thinking I'm missing something and frustrated that I just cut my fabric crosswise and had to line up all the selvages all perfect AGAIN just to realize I never had to cut it to begin with????
Many many many thanks in advance to any assistance with my confusion!
Laura
OK...well my fabric does have a design running lengthwise (sort of striped colors with kitty cats and butterflies inside the colors)...but regardless if the pattern layout is WITH nap anyway, why does the picture show it as double thickness using 2 pieces as opposed to just telling me to fold it crosswise and NOT place the pieces on the fold??? I read where some patterns have special instructions that tell them to draw arrows on the selvages that show the direction of the pattern and then cut the fold and rotate the top piece 180 degrees so that the arrows point the same way.....(my pattern does NOT give those instructions) but when I rotate my top piece 180 degrees THAT makes my arrows run opposite directions...so if I don't have to rotate after folding crosswise to keep my design running the same way WHY does the picture show double thickness (as though it's been cut and placed on top) as opposed to just folded and then cut away from the fold??
Sorry for such a long novel here, but I'm just thinking I'm missing something and frustrated that I just cut my fabric crosswise and had to line up all the selvages all perfect AGAIN just to realize I never had to cut it to begin with????
Many many many thanks in advance to any assistance with my confusion!
Laura
Posted on: 3/7/14 5:07 PM ET
In reply to lka674
Sometimes they do this because you need more than half the width of the fabric for the piece, like for a large skirt panel. If you folded selvage to selvage, the pattern piece wouldn't fit (unless your fabric is wider than the pattern layout is made for, in which case it might fit).
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~Erin~
Bernina 1130
Brother CS6000i
Brother 1034D serger
Bernina 1130
Brother CS6000i
Brother 1034D serger
Posted on: 3/7/14 5:35 PM ET
In reply to emm0119
Yes, as Erin said, laying out the fabric like this give you a piece of fabric to lay the pieces out on that is twice as wide as if you folded it in half lengthwise as is more common.
Folding it crosswise (which is what I think you're actually asking about?) will mess up the layout for nap fabric and directional prints, because half of it will be in the wrong direction. Yes, you are allowed to fold it crosswise if it doesn't matter for your print. I just reread what you said: the pattern is assuming that you will put the two pieces of fabric on top of each other facing the same way/with the print running in the same direction. i.e. that when you take that second piece of fabric to put on top that you do not rotate it from how it originally was in the uncut length. Folding it crosswise will automatically rotate it.
In fact, you can lay out the pattern pieces however you like provided the grain runs in the marked direction. However, I think it's easiest when you're starting to just follow the suggested layout.
Hope that helps,
Kathleen
-- Edited on 3/7/14 5:39 PM --
Folding it crosswise (which is what I think you're actually asking about?) will mess up the layout for nap fabric and directional prints, because half of it will be in the wrong direction. Yes, you are allowed to fold it crosswise if it doesn't matter for your print. I just reread what you said: the pattern is assuming that you will put the two pieces of fabric on top of each other facing the same way/with the print running in the same direction. i.e. that when you take that second piece of fabric to put on top that you do not rotate it from how it originally was in the uncut length. Folding it crosswise will automatically rotate it.
In fact, you can lay out the pattern pieces however you like provided the grain runs in the marked direction. However, I think it's easiest when you're starting to just follow the suggested layout.
Hope that helps,
Kathleen
-- Edited on 3/7/14 5:39 PM --
Posted on: 3/7/14 6:19 PM ET
Usually it's because of the width - which may only be an issue with some of the sizes. The piece is wider than half the width of the fabric. In that case, make sure you cut one face up and the other face down (or you will have 2 of the same - 2 right sleeves for example).
The wording in the instructions is nearly always generic - not for your specific pattern only. It can include "basics" that are not relevant in your case! The with and without nap is a good example.
As long as the arrows are parallel (they should be running the length of the fabric, not pointing to the selvages, but with some wovens you can get away with even that), and you fabric doesn't have and obvious "up" (kitties facing every which way), then you should be fine. Most of my patterns have double arrows (points on both ends).
The problem comes when the fabric has something (nap, or pattern) that goes in a specific direction. For example, you wouldn't want pajama pants with one leg where the animals are upside down. Or a velvet skirt where the back brushes down, but the front brushes up.
The wording in the instructions is nearly always generic - not for your specific pattern only. It can include "basics" that are not relevant in your case! The with and without nap is a good example.
As long as the arrows are parallel (they should be running the length of the fabric, not pointing to the selvages, but with some wovens you can get away with even that), and you fabric doesn't have and obvious "up" (kitties facing every which way), then you should be fine. Most of my patterns have double arrows (points on both ends).
The problem comes when the fabric has something (nap, or pattern) that goes in a specific direction. For example, you wouldn't want pajama pants with one leg where the animals are upside down. Or a velvet skirt where the back brushes down, but the front brushes up.
Posted on: 3/14/14 2:42 PM ET
Thank you everyone! I appreciate your replies. Got the pattern cut out and all sewn up yesterday. Turned out great for my very first sewing adventure! Again, many thanks!
Laura
Laura
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