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Posted on: 6/18/14 11:28 PM ET
I'm being defeated by patch pockets! I'm about ready to give up and just square them off...

I tried lining them to make it easier and am 0 for 4 on pockets. I am going to use all my extra fabric on pockets.

Whine. Whine. Whine.

Anyone have a solid instruction for rounded patch pockets?
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Janome Skyline S3 | Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 | Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503
Baby Lock Celebrate | Brother 2340CV
My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip

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Posted on: 6/18/14 11:40 PM ET
In reply to KSmithSews
What exactly is the issue?
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Posted on: 6/18/14 11:48 PM ET
In reply to KSmithSews
Make a pressing jig out of oaktag, a manilla file folder, or a cereal box. Cut it just smaller than the finished size of the pocket. A 1/16" would be about right for something made of medium weight fabric, a bit more for a coating or denim. I use a jig on all patch pockets, even when they're square. There's usually more than one, and the jig makes sure they're the same size and shape.

If there's a straight edge, press that first, then put the pocket on the jig, fold the edges over and press. I usually do it jig towards ironing board, but sometimes it's easier the other way. Also, some patterns have silly small folded allowances, you can make them bigger. If there's not a pattern (print, stripe, plaid,...) to match that's easy, if there is, you have pay attention to it. If there's not a pattern match, you don't have to get the folding perfectly even, either.
  
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Posted on: 6/18/14 11:58 PM ET
Patty, getting them evenly stitched and pressed.

The jig idea sounds like it'll help. I was super extra careful with my stitching and still it was wonky when I tried to press it

It's a suiting weight cotton. So not heavy but not flimsy either (presses beautifully!). And it's solid colored! :)

I ended up moving on to other stuff like all the interfacing and what not. The really crazy thing is my shaped pocket flaps are beautiful! But I can't get the dang pockets right.

I'll try again tomorrow
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Janome Skyline S3 | Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 | Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503
Baby Lock Celebrate | Brother 2340CV
My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip

http://dressmakingdebacles.blogspot.com
  
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Posted on: 6/19/14 0:11 AM ET
I seem to recall one of the Tutorial Queens (Pam Erny, maybe?) suggest using fusible interfacing for the jig--cut & press the pocket, then fuse it into place so it won't budge when you're stitching it down. (Ok, that sounds like it's missing a step somewhere, but hopefully you get the idea!)

Oooh--here it is!
http://3hourspast.com/2012/11/11/notes-on-the-use-and-abuse-of-fusible-webbing-tape/
Scroll down to the patch pocket section. She's actually using Steam-a-Seam, so whatever fusible tape you have on hand should work.
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Posted on: 6/19/14 1:00 AM ET
In reply to KSmithSews
Maybe this will help:
same sizing your pockets
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Posted on: 6/19/14 1:10 AM ET
You can also run gathering stitches to pull the fabric in over the pressing jig, then press, then release the gathering stitches and touch up the pressing if necessary. I'm a gathering fanatic, I'd probably (and have) run a line of gathering stitches inside the seam allowance just to the side of the seam line and then two more rows of gathering stitches (also inside the seam allowance if they will fit). If the whole process has made you skittish, just make extra jigs and fold the jig out of the gathered patch instead of releasing the gathering which you can release after the lining has been mostly stitched.

Have also gathered over the pressing jig, as described above, and then gone through the same process with the lining. And then, stitched the lining and the pocket with everything having been pre-pressed. And then turn the pocket patch.

An added step is to trim a microscopic amount from the template (or a new template) before cutting the lining. The pocket patch will still need a finishing press and perhaps a little bit more manipulation but it will have been nicely pre shaped before sewing.

-- Edited on Today at 1:12 AM --
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Posted on: 6/19/14 1:23 AM ET
Another way which may help. Put a piece of fusible non glue side to right side of fabric. Draw the pocket shape on the fusible with something easy to follow with the machine, stitch all round. Make crossing slits in the fusible, taking care not to slit the fabric, clip all the curved edges and trim. Turn the pocket through the fusible and press. You can also do this technique with a non fusible such as a lightweight organza, which come to think of it would give more room for pressing error. You can slip stitch a lining to the wrong side if you want a really neat inside to the pocket.
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Posted on: 6/19/14 1:51 AM ET
In reply to KSmithSews
This is one of Pam's best for an unlined rounded patch pocket. I had to try it just cause and it worked. Don't know where the sample is now though.. ;)
Twin rounded end patch pockets by Pam
Shel
  
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Posted on: 6/19/14 6:21 AM ET
THANK YOU ALL!!

I had seriously tried several methods and it just wasn't happening. Maybe now with a clear head I can have at it :)

Shel that twin pocket trick is FASCINATING.
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Janome Skyline S3 | Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 | Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503
Baby Lock Celebrate | Brother 2340CV
My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip

http://dressmakingdebacles.blogspot.com
  
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