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Posted on: 7/26/14 12:24 PM ET
I made the changes that you recommended - took out the back dart and made it smaller and took out a dart in back armhole and took it to shoulder -- front looks good I think. The back has diagonal lines from waist area to the shoulder blade area. I tried taking up the back shoulder and that took out the lines, but then the shoulder seam was out of position. Not sure what to do now.
BTW - thank you for your previous help. I was amazed when I let out that dart in the back --it opened completely. It also fixed issues with the front being held up!


-- Edited on Today at 12:24 PM --
BTW - thank you for your previous help. I was amazed when I let out that dart in the back --it opened completely. It also fixed issues with the front being held up!
-- Edited on Today at 12:24 PM --
Posted on: 7/26/14 1:13 PM ET
In reply to VickeyJ
I'd put both sleeves in. You need both to get an idea of how your back is fitting, especially for a garment that's not loose.
I suspect the diagonal lines are from the skirt needing more room to slip down over the high hip area. Also could be more of the waist level circumference needing to be in the front instead of the back.
Shell
I suspect the diagonal lines are from the skirt needing more room to slip down over the high hip area. Also could be more of the waist level circumference needing to be in the front instead of the back.
Shell
Posted on: 7/26/14 6:21 PM ET
Looking good! I agree with Marilly--the skirt seems to be an eeensy bit snug, and a tiny bit more ease will make it fall a little smoother and might pull out those wrinkles in the back.
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~Elizabeth in the prairie
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
Posted on: 7/26/14 7:42 PM ET
In reply to stirwatersblue
Would enlarging the skirt take away the wrinkles in the back of the bodice? If so, can I just enlarge the skirt at the side seams - I have an inch seam allowance ... and ease it in to the bodice?
Posted on: 7/26/14 7:54 PM ET
I think you've got two problems. It's a bit tight through the hips plus some extra length through mid body, 0 at cb/cf to more at the ss. It's almost like you need to add more curve to the waist seam of the bodice.
Your waist appears to be sitting level front to back. If you release the hips to allow more ease it will help smooth those wrinkles but it will also drop the waist. Hence the need to add more curve at the bodice waist.
Debbie
Your waist appears to be sitting level front to back. If you release the hips to allow more ease it will help smooth those wrinkles but it will also drop the waist. Hence the need to add more curve at the bodice waist.
Debbie
Posted on: 7/26/14 8:31 PM ET
In reply to simplystitches
Okay -- I see what you mean -- so can I slash the side seams and overlap to decrease length of bodice at side seams ..the overlap would taper and end at the front princess seam in the front and taper to nothing at center back? And it doesn't seem that I need more room in the waist but at high hip I do -- So do I make a vertical cut in the skirts and spread to fit the hips and then decrease waist to fit the bodice?
Seems like I might be getting close!!
Seems like I might be getting close!!
Posted on: 7/26/14 9:01 PM ET
In reply to VickeyJ
You're on the right track with one exception.
You definitely need more at high hip but if you then reduce the skirt to fit the waist you're pretty much right where you started. The place you need more room is from the bottom of the darts to the waist.
From the pictures it looks like you've got a pretty close fit through the waist. Have you tried sitting in it? If not you may find that you need more room through the waist. Even reducing each dart by 1/8" at the bottom of the bodice it will give you 1" more through the waist. You can also reduce the bodice and skirt ss by the same and gain another 1/2". That's another 1 1/2" that can be added to the upper skirt for a bit more ease. You may not even need that much.
I would try pinning the extra ss bodice length as you've proposed before you make pattern changes. I think you'll need to go all the way to cf, the same as cb rather than stopping at the princess seam line.That way you've got an idea of the amount. Depending on how big the skirt darts are you could let them out or eliminate one of the back ones entirely to match the addition at the waist without having to add to the entire skirts circumference. The fit below the darts looks like it's got enough ease.
I think once you get the bodice length taken care of and add some more room at high hip and waist you should be there. Even the sleeve and armscye look good.
Debbie
Quote:
And it doesn't seem that I need more room in the waist but at high hip I do -- So do I make a vertical cut in the skirts and spread to fit the hips and then decrease waist to fit the bodice
And it doesn't seem that I need more room in the waist but at high hip I do -- So do I make a vertical cut in the skirts and spread to fit the hips and then decrease waist to fit the bodice
You definitely need more at high hip but if you then reduce the skirt to fit the waist you're pretty much right where you started. The place you need more room is from the bottom of the darts to the waist.
From the pictures it looks like you've got a pretty close fit through the waist. Have you tried sitting in it? If not you may find that you need more room through the waist. Even reducing each dart by 1/8" at the bottom of the bodice it will give you 1" more through the waist. You can also reduce the bodice and skirt ss by the same and gain another 1/2". That's another 1 1/2" that can be added to the upper skirt for a bit more ease. You may not even need that much.
I would try pinning the extra ss bodice length as you've proposed before you make pattern changes. I think you'll need to go all the way to cf, the same as cb rather than stopping at the princess seam line.That way you've got an idea of the amount. Depending on how big the skirt darts are you could let them out or eliminate one of the back ones entirely to match the addition at the waist without having to add to the entire skirts circumference. The fit below the darts looks like it's got enough ease.
I think once you get the bodice length taken care of and add some more room at high hip and waist you should be there. Even the sleeve and armscye look good.
Debbie
Posted on: 8/2/14 1:29 PM ET
In reply to simplystitches
Hi - I made the changes that you suggested and back wrinkles remained - I did some measuring and found that all of the waistline ease was in the back so redid some seams and darts to even that out and it took out the wrinkles in the back.
Now I notice two things -- wrinkle from L waistline to right shoulder area (I have uneven shoulders and hips) and also seems like some fullness in back bodice. Think these things need to be fixed or just go with this? Has improved a lot. You don't know how much I appreciate your help -- I have never gotten a garment this close -- usually I give up in despair! Thank you so much for your interest and support!!
Posted on: 8/2/14 6:55 PM ET
In reply to VickeyJ
That looks great!
Yes. They're both fairly easy fixes and you're soooo close to a really great fit. The bodice is basic enough that you can do so many different things with different skirt shapes and also lengthen it to a full dress with a small amount of work.
I don't think the back bodice looks like it has too much ease but you could lengthen the back darts and that will snug it up some higher up. You can try sewing it a couple inches higher and see how you like it.
Your right one appears to be higher than the left. That means you need to change the angle of the seam on that side. Remove the sleeve on the right and try taking a smaller seam towards the armscye. Use the 5/8" sa at the neckline and reduce it to 1/4" by the time you're at the armscye and see if that's enough. It's sort of a guessing game on how much is needed. If you need more than what's in the sa now you can stitch pieces on so you don't have to redo the entire bodice.
Once you get the shoulder angle fixed you'll need full front and back pattern pieces to reflect the different shoulder angles. They'll have to be cut flat rather than on the fold.
You've got one minor drag line on the left from the waist pointing to the bust. It's not on the right because the higher shoulder is pulling it up. Without a side picture I can't tell if opening up the princess seam for more room would work or a side dart pinned in, split and rotated to the princess seam would work. My feeling is that it needs to be pinned at the ss and rotated. You'd need to add the length and width of the dart back at the bodice waist so the front and back ss match again.
After you get the shoulder fixed you could try opening up the princess seams and see what that does to the wrinkle. That may be enough to remove it. My gut says it needs to be rotated.
It may seem like a lot but it's really only minor tweaks. The one that I would definitely do is fix the shoulder issue.
I actually enjoy fitting. I'm weird, I know. Yours was easy. I could see exactly what needed to be done. I've done some fittings that have left me scratching my head on where to start but those are usually in person so it's really easy to start pinning and shaping. Pictures can sometimes be much more difficult.
Debbie
Quote:
Think these things need to be fixed
Think these things need to be fixed
Yes. They're both fairly easy fixes and you're soooo close to a really great fit. The bodice is basic enough that you can do so many different things with different skirt shapes and also lengthen it to a full dress with a small amount of work.
I don't think the back bodice looks like it has too much ease but you could lengthen the back darts and that will snug it up some higher up. You can try sewing it a couple inches higher and see how you like it.
Quote:
I have uneven shoulders
I have uneven shoulders
Your right one appears to be higher than the left. That means you need to change the angle of the seam on that side. Remove the sleeve on the right and try taking a smaller seam towards the armscye. Use the 5/8" sa at the neckline and reduce it to 1/4" by the time you're at the armscye and see if that's enough. It's sort of a guessing game on how much is needed. If you need more than what's in the sa now you can stitch pieces on so you don't have to redo the entire bodice.
Once you get the shoulder angle fixed you'll need full front and back pattern pieces to reflect the different shoulder angles. They'll have to be cut flat rather than on the fold.
You've got one minor drag line on the left from the waist pointing to the bust. It's not on the right because the higher shoulder is pulling it up. Without a side picture I can't tell if opening up the princess seam for more room would work or a side dart pinned in, split and rotated to the princess seam would work. My feeling is that it needs to be pinned at the ss and rotated. You'd need to add the length and width of the dart back at the bodice waist so the front and back ss match again.
After you get the shoulder fixed you could try opening up the princess seams and see what that does to the wrinkle. That may be enough to remove it. My gut says it needs to be rotated.
It may seem like a lot but it's really only minor tweaks. The one that I would definitely do is fix the shoulder issue.
Quote:
Thank you so much for your interest
Thank you so much for your interest
I actually enjoy fitting. I'm weird, I know. Yours was easy. I could see exactly what needed to be done. I've done some fittings that have left me scratching my head on where to start but those are usually in person so it's really easy to start pinning and shaping. Pictures can sometimes be much more difficult.
Debbie
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