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Member since 8/15/04
Posts: 1878
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3 Replies
Posted on: 12/5/14 1:24 PM ET
Calling Burda Mavens:

I want to make a Burda jacket and have not sewn a Burda jacket. My shoulder size is one size and my bust is another. I know to trace the shoulder seam per my neck measurement and need to adjust to the next size for my bust.

I will gradually move the line out to my bust as I trace around the arm hole. My question is - what size sleeve do I trace? The one according to my neck size or the one according to my bust size? Or, do I grade the sleeve cap the same way I graded the bodice part of the pattern?

This is an older Burda pattern (don't have the number with me right now) made for knits - simple center front separting zipper with collar. I am using polar fleece to make my jacket so maybe I don't have to worry about the sleeve grading?

Thanks for your answers.

Woggy
-- Edited on 12/6/14 at 8:26 AM --
  
Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 12/5/14 3:05 PM ET
In reply to woggy
The late Roberta Carr, a well-known sewing teacher, author, and onetime collaborator with Burda, told me (I have your fitting problem) when tracing off my pattern to use the neck measurement shown on the Burda sheet to determine the shoulder size. For a larger or smaller bust, start moving to the next size around the armhole notch. She said the sleeve should be graded in the same way, the front armhole notch on Burda providing a handy reference point.
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Elona
  
Member since 2/9/04
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Posted on: 12/5/14 3:11 PM ET
In reply to woggy
IIRC, Burda drafts for a very slender upper arm. Measure your own bicep and then measure the pattern. You might find your answer best by doing this.
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iPad's auto-correct is my enema.
  
Member since 7/10/06
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Posted on: 12/5/14 3:32 PM ET
I agree with Doris. I'd use the sleeve size you need to fit your arm, and simply use the corresponding size armscye.
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Member since 8/15/04
Posts: 1878
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Posted on: 12/5/14 5:01 PM ET
In reply to woggy
Thank you all for your responses.

Woggy
  
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