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Member since 5/14/05
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Posted on: 5/6/15 2:00 PM ET
Hi,

I think I have finally achieved the TNT t-shirt pattern that fits me well. It has bust darts and back darts, asymmetrically sloping shoulders, the waist is at my actual waist, and I drafted asymmetric sleeve caps that are of sufficient height and account for my forward shoulder. I really love this pattern. I want everything to fit like this pattern!!!

So now I'd like to make a light zippered jacket, something to throw on in the cool evenings. I'm guessing I can just add a little ease to the side seams, and I could add seam allowances to the center front to insert a zipper. But what about the sleeve head and shoulder area? I should lower the armhole, right? Do I move the shoulder seam out and broaden the upper chest area, too, sort of like converting from set in to drop sleeve (but not that extreme)? Is there a tutorial out there?

Thanks in advance,
June

  
Member since 2/5/09
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Posted on: 5/6/15 7:36 PM ET
The jackets often have part of the bust and shoulder dart transfered to the armhole, some of the bust dart to the shoulder (depending on the fit). Depending on the sleeve you like, you may want to lower the armhole too (even after opening some od the darts into it).
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Custom clothier and pattern designer. www.iconicpatterns.com
  
Member since 11/26/12
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Posted on: 5/7/15 2:27 AM ET
I'm also really interested in this as I finally have a TNT tshirt/dress and want to make a jacket (hoodie) too but wasn't sure what to do with the armholes.
Is there any pictures or specifics about how much to add?
  
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Posted on: 5/7/15 6:58 PM ET
In reply to JOshiro
You have to add ease so that it can go over other garments, how much depends on what you plan to wear under it. You also have to lower the armscye so that it's comfortable with something underneath. The neckline may change as well depending on what your t shirt neckline is. You have to change she sleeve cap too lowering it at the underarm.
If your tee is very fitted, you may want to rotate some of the dart takeup into the armscye. However then you have to change the sleeve cap, and there I can't help you further.
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Member since 5/14/05
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Posted on: 5/8/15 9:04 AM ET
I used the Allemong sloper book to draft the t-shirt sleeve - all you need is the armhole measurements and a bicep measurement (described here).

I think that once I figure out how much to drop and enlarge the armhole, I can redraft another sleeve using the same technique.

Thank you for the ideas!
  
Member since 11/26/12
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Posted on: 5/8/15 9:27 AM ET
In reply to JOshiro
I don't have the Allemong Sloper book but I have another pattern drafting book I had forgotten about. I'll check it out in the morning. thanks for the inspiration :)
  
Member since 6/4/07
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Posted on: 5/8/15 3:28 PM ET
This link shows how to draft a sleeve for a ready made armhole (sloper).
-- Edited on 5/8/15 at 3:28 PM --
  
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