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Member since 11/5/13
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Posted on: 5/6/15 4:06 PM ET
Hi all. I have come to that decision making time when I must choose between having too much fabric above the bust, or too little fabric and have THE Shelf stand out for what it is! How do I avoid THE Shelf without drowning in too much fabric coming down from the shoulder? I indulge myself with good quality bras so even when they are older the girls are up pretty much where they used to be (not exactly--but kinda). However, over the years they have increased dramatically so now I have this flat place on the upper chest between the shoulder and my upper bust. How do you decide what is enough fabric for cross front at upper bust?
  
Member since 1/23/06
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Posted on: 5/11/15 3:58 PM ET
I am not quite sure I understand your issue. Are you wanting to know how to fit a cross over top or dress, a la Diane Von Furstenburg, over a large bust?
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Member since 2/9/04
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Posted on: 5/11/15 5:21 PM ET
In reply to alpenrose
With a tailored jacket, this is where the chest shield comes in. For blouses, shirts and tees . . . I don't know of anything that can fill that space. I have a small bit of the same problem even though I'm a B cup.... I'm very shallow and narrow in the upper bust.
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iPad's auto-correct is my enema.
  
Member since 3/6/12
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Posted on: 5/12/15 2:39 AM ET
I have this problem too. Usually I just let the shelf be the shelf! Using princess seams coming from the shoulder rather than the armhole helps me finesse the fit when I want a less pronounced look, I can pull in the seam a little so as not to drown in fabric on the upper bust
-- Edited on 5/26/15 at 1:46 PM --
  
Member since 8/15/04
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Posted on: 5/12/15 12:36 PM ET
In reply to Doris W. in TN
In the Palmer fitting book on skirts, dresses, etc. a suggestion for this issue is to line the jacket with a piece of fleece from bust to shoulder. The fleece prevents the material from collapsing against the body above the bust.

Woggy
  
Member since 10/14/03
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Posted on: 6/9/15 8:20 PM ET
I'm a size 16 through the shoulders and upper chest, size 22 at the bust line, and...well I'm an apple shape, so you can figure it out. I buy patterns that have 16 and above in them. I make the garment fit the shoulders and upper chest and do an FBA to accommodate the bust. I have a D cup bustline, so I don't have an actual shelf problem, but I think if your garment fits well through the shoulders and upper chest, you can transition into the bustline more smoothly. Plus, if the garment fits through the shoulders and upper chest, people won't be looking at the shelf as much--just the beautiful fit above.
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If I sewed any slower, I wouldn't be sewing at all.

  
Member since 11/5/13
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Posted on: 6/9/15 11:21 PM ET
Thanks OP Gal--your post makes the process clearer! Right now I am working on a loose fitting button down shirt. Back neck is Med, haven't corrected the front neck yet, but the medium will probably do. Then I go large on the shoulder so I can get the length in the upper bodice (front/back). When I start on the armscye then things really get wonky. My upper bust is wider than most so I will have to go large for that part of the armscye, however when I get to part of the armscye directly opposite my bustling I always have too much fabric so I have to do a bust dart, which means I have to re-draft the bottom front armscye. My back is swimmer's broad upper, but my shoulders are narrow, so the actual high point of my shoulder is closer to my center back line then the mid point of my back armscye so I get this armscye line that is kinda straight and not a nice curve like I so desire! Your post help me to see some of that more clearly!
  
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