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Member since 11/5/13
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Posted on: 5/15/15 1:32 PM ET
Hello:

I am doing a basic (very basic) camp shirt. The shoulder seam comes over the top and down on to the front of the bodice--not much. However, I am getting ready to cut and I see the instructions on the layout tell me to lay the yoke alongside of the back bodice. The grainline on the yoke is parallel to the CB Fold. This means that I will never be able to match up the pattern on the fabric. The yoke is perpendicular to the back, but cut on the same grain. I am using a nice summer type cotton shirting and wonder if it is critical that the yoke grainline be lengthwise of the selvage, or would it mess things up too much if I placed the yoke perpendicular to the selvage such that it fits down on top of the back bodice and I can match up the print? Hope this makes sense. I just don't see why it is so important to have the yoke grainline go along the selvage!
  
Member since 7/19/07
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Posted on: 5/15/15 1:40 PM ET
The yoke goes along the selvage for stability, since there's less fabric stretch in that direction. Look at RTW shirts with a yoke--they'll typically show this layout.

The idea isn't to match up the print in this case. If you're working with a shirting with vertical stripes, the stripes should run horizontal across the yoke.

You could always use a lightweight interfacing on the yoke and cut it the other way if you really wanted to match the stripes, but this isn't typically what you see in RTW.
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Posted on: 5/17/15 4:39 AM ET
Rtw lays stripes across grain, or I've even seen them use the bias there. Never seen a shirt try to match up stripes vertically from back to yoke.
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Member since 10/30/06
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Posted on: 5/17/15 1:40 PM ET
The yoke is usually narrower than the back piece. The back can have pleats or gathers or just be eased. This makes pattern matching a problem.
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If you wait for the perfect time to start, you'll never start.
  
Member since 4/27/15
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Posted on: 5/20/15 7:07 PM ET
I think the right thing to do would be to cut the inner yoke along the selvage for stability, and the outer yoke crosswise to match up the print. Then you get the best of both worlds (stability + matching).

As others have said, it's OK not to match prints from the yoke to the shirt back, but if you want to do it, I think that's how you'd go about it.
-- Edited on 5/20/15 at 7:07 PM --
  
Member since 11/5/13
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Posted on: 5/21/15 11:44 PM ET
Brilliant !

Thank you!
  
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