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Member since 12/28/12
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Posted on: 5/22/15 1:15 PM ET
I have some lovely soft cotton voile which I am thinking would make a very cute wrap blouse - I have this Burdastyle pattern in stash, or this Burda one.

The first is for chiffon or similar (it says with or without stretch) and the second is actually for knits, but has more darts and might be better to fit.

I am wondering whether voile will have enough drape to carry this off... Thoughts please?
  
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Posted on: 5/22/15 2:27 PM ET
I don't think that a knit pattern would work with those particular patterns IMHO & I think the ease would also be off. A knit would have recovery which it looks like those tops would need or you would be pulling and tugging at them to keep them in place, too.
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Sue who used to be Sue Wilson
  
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Posted on: 5/22/15 2:45 PM ET
In reply to jjosiejo
Although your first Burda does mention light fabrics with or without stretching, the actually garment is made from 'Crêpe chiffon with crosswise stretch.'

So, in short, my answer for you would be this: "No. A thousand times no."

Stretch patterns use the stretchiness of fabrics to cover the contours of the body, generally fitting very close or actually with negative ease--that is, smaller than the true body measurements.

For wovens, you need darts, gathers, or seams to make that fabric conform. There is one exception: if you cut a suitable fabric on the bias ((using very wide seam allowances for safety), it will have more stretch and adaptability than a woven cut on grain. But bias can be tricky for a novice, and you generally have to make fitting adjustments for anything other than a pretty small bosom.
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Elona
  
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Posted on: 5/22/15 3:01 PM ET
In reply to Elona
Thanks for the thoughts. I am not sure that cutting this on the bias would work as the wrap ties are very long and it would mean lots of seams and probably running out of fabric.

I am not a novice and the reason I was considering the latter pattern was because it actually has more darts than the one which says for lightweight wovens and would be easier to adjust for fit. I am not too worried about the fitting - I could make either one fit ok, I was more wondering whether voile would have enough drape to look ok or if it might be a bit too crisp?
  
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Posted on: 5/22/15 3:40 PM ET
In reply to jjosiejo
I think your fabric would have enough drape for the Burdastyle pattern. I think it will be a bit more crisp than the chiffon version, but I'm sure you know that
I like to cut my sleeves on the bias if I have enough fabric. They are a touch more flexible that way, but this doesn't change the look of a garment too much. This might be helpful with a slim sleeve like the Burdastyle.
-- Edited on 5/22/15 at 3:40 PM --
  
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Posted on: 5/22/15 3:56 PM ET
In reply to Elephun
Thanks, good tip!
  
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Posted on: 5/22/15 5:01 PM ET
Not to discourage you or anything, but I made a woven wrap top once, from a Burda envelope pattern that was designed for wovens and I hated it.

It looked OK and the fit was fine, but it was fiddly and always needing adjustment at the waist whenever I raised my arms. I will never make another wrap top or dress from a woven.

A faux wrap, yes. A draped front top, yes. A wrap skirt, yes. But any top where there is a tie that wraps around my waist and is in a woven fabric, no.

So my advice would be to find a woven wrap top in a store, (if you can - they are hard to find for a reason) and try it on to see if it's what you're thinking it will be. Then if you like it, then forge ahead.

Just my 2 cents.
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Liz
  
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Posted on: 5/22/15 5:23 PM ET
In reply to jjosiejo
Plain weave Cotton Viole has no stretch to carry it off at all. So, no matter what Burda says there, I think they made a printing mistake on saying that, (fabric with or without stretch) and they should have said for stretchy knits only.

It also could have lost something in translation even, maybe even that their 55 inch fabric was very thin and stretchy because it had a crepe like stretchy weave to it and even some lycra in it maybe?

I think if you wanted to make the sleeves, and back out of something nice and stretchy like a thin rayon knit, then maybe you could get away with using some cotton voile cut on the bias for just the the cross over front part of it possibly though. I would feel iffy on even that though. That way with the stretchy stuff on the back and in at least half the armholes and in the whole sleeves, you still might be able to move around a bit.

Look how tight those sleeves are on that person. It looks like they would have been really hard to even pull over a wrist. Not counting the rest of the sleeve that looks like no extra fabric there, to be able to move or put your arms out in front of you either. That is what I see.
  
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Posted on: 5/22/15 5:23 PM ET
In reply to jjosiejo
Definitely avoid the second pattern you linked (#7107). The first one might be okay.... measure the amount of ease in the pattern itself and in the bicep of the sleeve first. If you can afford to have a wadder and not cry, and the finished garment measurements "as is" on the pattern are within your own measurements with some ease, then go for it.
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Member since 12/30/12
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Posted on: 5/23/15 9:54 AM ET
I wouldn't do it. The burdastyle repeatedly calls this a "sweater" which leads me to believe it really is meant for a drapey knit with or without Lycra. I honestly don't think the fabric recommendations meant a woven at all.
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