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Member since 1/18/05
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Posted on: 7/30/15 3:43 PM ET
I'm working on a 3rd pair of pants now. These are work pants, so I'm taking my time.

I've reviewed prior posts on the crotch seam - which come up from time to time but I'm still not sure how to proceed.

I'm constructing my pants (not at this moment - I'm at work hehehe.) I've inserted the fly zipper on the fronts & darts on the backs.

I've sewn both inseams & am ready to tackle the crotch. I'm used to doing the one leg inside the other method, so inseam, crotch, outseam is new to me.

Anyway, from what I've read & seen on the Google, some people serge the right & left side of the crotch & them sew them together & press open.

In my sewing, I've always stitched the crotch together then put the whole crotch seam through the serger. That's probably not the 'correct' way to sew "slacks."

How do you do it? Can I do a french seam there up to the fly?

Thanks for your thoughts.
-- Edited on 7/30/15 at 3:44 PM --
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Member since 1/9/07
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Posted on: 7/30/15 3:56 PM ET
In reply to traceymadeit
There are no crotch seam police, so… whatever makes you happy

There is no 'correct' way, just look at ready to wear - even expensive ready to wear - it's done a variety of ways; although I don't think I've ever seen it done with a french seam...
  
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Posted on: 7/30/15 4:09 PM ET
Sometimes I sew the inseams and then the crotch seam (leaving the side seams open to baste for fit).

But other times I sew the crotch seams and then sew the inseam from the hem of one leg allll the way to the hem of the other.

I was wearing pants yesterday that I did the second way, and thought there was something I didn't like about it.

And yay for no sewing police!! :)
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Member since 3/9/11
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Posted on: 7/30/15 4:10 PM ET
In reply to traceymadeit
its' what you like. Also depends on the fabric. if you can serge, I go for it. No reason not to ..

No way is wrong, to serge each side or serge together.

if you want to cut down on bulk, you serge, if you want them to lay open, your pants your way
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Cheryl
  
Member since 9/26/05
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Posted on: 7/30/15 6:16 PM ET
If you want to be able to alter size through the back crotch seam, serge separately. Ditto for side seams.
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Posted on: 7/30/15 6:41 PM ET
In reply to traceymadeit
I use the serge-the-edges first only when the pants have a fly or a fake fly (the kind that is top-stitched to looks as if it has a zipper, and/or if it has a back with a very wide menswear seam allowance at the center back...in other words, tailored, fly-front pants with or without pockets. In order to get all those edges nice finished, serging before seaming is much easier.

But if the design is pull-on, then there is nothing wrong or improper about stitching the crotch seam, then serging the edges together. And we will not picket your house or humiliate you if we catch you out in public in those pants....because we won't be able to tell HOW you did it.
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Member since 12/15/12
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Posted on: 7/31/15 1:40 AM ET
I always use a flat felled seam for crotch seams. They are very strong and durable plus no unfinished seams exposed.
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Member since 2/19/04
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Posted on: 7/31/15 2:31 AM ET
I just did some alterations to a pair of men's trousers where all the seams including the crotch seam were Hong Kong finished with a satiny binding. They were so pretty inside.
  
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Posted on: 7/31/15 4:28 AM ET
I've seen designer slacks that bind the seams using hong kong finish. It's a sleeker look than serging and top-stitching. I persoonally prefer the serge and top-stitch look for all my pants, whether jeans or slacks. Theres no wrong way, its just how much time do you like to put into your finishing and whether you want top-stitching shown on outside.
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Posted on: 8/2/15 7:29 PM ET
I serge the seams first then sew up the crotch seam. I clip it and press open the seam above the clip. I then go back to the serger and serge/trim together the curved crotch area only, the area not press open, Sometimes I will do the Hong Kong binding as well. It is a lovely finish.
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