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Posted on: 8/31/15 10:04 PM ET
I gave away all my poor fitting jeans, and I am making my jeans from now on. That said, I thought I would have oodles of time this summer to leisurely fit jeans patterns and sew to my heart's content. (Cue the needle scratch on the record) All of a sudden it's the last day of August and I have no jeans!!
Ive been collecting denim for a few years now, and I have both stretch and non-stretch. I have the Jalie stretch jeans pattern, and would love to jump into it, but EVERY SINGLE PAIR of stretch pants or shorts start moderately snug in the morning and are almost falling off at the end of the day. I know that some of it has to do with "stretch recovery" and part of it has to do with the nature of denim.
So, what's the secret?? Do we fit stretch jeans pretty tight and let them "relax" or am I thinking about this wrong? Maybe I should just make non-stretch for now?
Thanks in advance for the wisdom to be received.
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Ive been collecting denim for a few years now, and I have both stretch and non-stretch. I have the Jalie stretch jeans pattern, and would love to jump into it, but EVERY SINGLE PAIR of stretch pants or shorts start moderately snug in the morning and are almost falling off at the end of the day. I know that some of it has to do with "stretch recovery" and part of it has to do with the nature of denim.
So, what's the secret?? Do we fit stretch jeans pretty tight and let them "relax" or am I thinking about this wrong? Maybe I should just make non-stretch for now?
Thanks in advance for the wisdom to be received.
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Diane L Wilson
Palmer/ Pletsch Certified Sewing Instructor
Follow me on Instagram & Twitter @sewfrantic
Business IG @stitchplease_cs Custom Fit Shirts
Palmer/ Pletsch Certified Sewing Instructor
Follow me on Instagram & Twitter @sewfrantic
Business IG @stitchplease_cs Custom Fit Shirts
Posted on: 8/31/15 10:17 PM ET
In reply to dianelwilson
I am probably a minority, but I fit my jeans "comfortably" & just wear a belt if needed.
Posted on: 9/1/15 7:00 AM ET
If you mean tide in the morning after you wash them, than yes, they will relax a bit with wearing them because of the stretch in them.
If to much, than it could be the quality of denim, amount of stretch, or you making them without negative ease since they normally stretch a little after wearing them.
recovery means more like, you bend down and after you bent down, you have permanent "knees". That is poor recovery. If you stand up and don't have knees, you have great recovery in the jeans.
If to much, than it could be the quality of denim, amount of stretch, or you making them without negative ease since they normally stretch a little after wearing them.
recovery means more like, you bend down and after you bent down, you have permanent "knees". That is poor recovery. If you stand up and don't have knees, you have great recovery in the jeans.
Posted on: 9/1/15 7:17 AM ET
In reply to knitsgetsmail
I think it's the negative ease I've not accounted for.
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Diane L Wilson
Palmer/ Pletsch Certified Sewing Instructor
Follow me on Instagram & Twitter @sewfrantic
Business IG @stitchplease_cs Custom Fit Shirts
Palmer/ Pletsch Certified Sewing Instructor
Follow me on Instagram & Twitter @sewfrantic
Business IG @stitchplease_cs Custom Fit Shirts
Posted on: 9/1/15 9:08 AM ET
I have a pair of Lauren jeans that did the same thing--looked good for 2 hours, then hanging and dragging the rest of the day. I was ready to throw them into the giveaway box, then remembered I can sew.
I wore them to their baggiest, then without washing, removed the waistband, took in the side seams, re-attached the band at my waist level. Now they fit beautifully all day.
The next time I try to sew jeans, I think I'll baste everything together and wear them a few hours, then do the final fitting.
I wore them to their baggiest, then without washing, removed the waistband, took in the side seams, re-attached the band at my waist level. Now they fit beautifully all day.
The next time I try to sew jeans, I think I'll baste everything together and wear them a few hours, then do the final fitting.
Posted on: 9/1/15 12:07 PM ET
I haven't made a pair of jeans yet. But making a great fitting pair is on my wish list.
That said, I've found that in the past when I have purchased a stretch denim pair of jeans, I've gone down one or two sizes (think about Not Your Daughter's Jeans).
I normally start at size 12 in the big 4 patterns for pants and in NYDJ a size 6 fit really well! That's some kind of vanity sizing I guess.
I had the thought that when I do make jeans out of stretch denim I would go down a size but cut 1" side seams (the cut big sew small philosophy).
Maybe that will work.
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That said, I've found that in the past when I have purchased a stretch denim pair of jeans, I've gone down one or two sizes (think about Not Your Daughter's Jeans).
I normally start at size 12 in the big 4 patterns for pants and in NYDJ a size 6 fit really well! That's some kind of vanity sizing I guess.

I had the thought that when I do make jeans out of stretch denim I would go down a size but cut 1" side seams (the cut big sew small philosophy).
Maybe that will work.

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50 Yard Dash - Yardage sewn = 15.0
Posted on: 9/1/15 6:23 PM ET
I buy jeans, not make them, but no matter if all cotton denim or mostly cotton with some lycra/spandex in there, when worn after taken straight out of being washed and hot clothes dyer, I think they all stretch out a bit later in the wearing of them. How much later, I don't know, but for me when just walking around in them, if put on lst thing in the AM, they would be a bit looser at least by lunch time. Even if doing no real bending or stretching other than just walking around, or sitting and driving in a car. Has to do with the twill weave of it too even as being kind of "body conforming" especially if they are tight on you and your body puts pressure on it.
Because of that, and because I like to wear mine kind of "fitting" most of the time, I get them so they fit a bit snug at first, then put them on and if they are still snug, do a few leg squats and deep knee bends right then, and that most times stretches them out as much as would happen, just walking around in them for the whole day anyways.
I think the ones with Lycra/Spandex in them even though they stretch, do stretch back better though, and have more "recovery" most times.
I don't know how to translate that into sewing them, but if I was sewing some, then to find out, on each different piece of fabric of /for them, I think I would have to cut them out, baste them up, and then just do a bunch of leg bends and deep squats in a row for at least a few minutes maybe even , to even see what happened each time and then go from there.
Not sure it has anything to do with the price of the jeans or what the fabric costs though. As I have been wearing J brand, Page, Frame, NYDJ, True Religion and such and all of those are really some of the more expensive ones out there, too even. I don't ever pay normal ($80 to $175) price though, often even only $7.99 in the thrifts or $30 on sale someplace. Have worn lots of cheaper jeans in the past, and the same kind of thing happens there for me too even. Just the nature of denim, and the twill weave of it, with or without some of that lycra in it, I think.
Because of that, and because I like to wear mine kind of "fitting" most of the time, I get them so they fit a bit snug at first, then put them on and if they are still snug, do a few leg squats and deep knee bends right then, and that most times stretches them out as much as would happen, just walking around in them for the whole day anyways.
I think the ones with Lycra/Spandex in them even though they stretch, do stretch back better though, and have more "recovery" most times.
I don't know how to translate that into sewing them, but if I was sewing some, then to find out, on each different piece of fabric of /for them, I think I would have to cut them out, baste them up, and then just do a bunch of leg bends and deep squats in a row for at least a few minutes maybe even , to even see what happened each time and then go from there.
Not sure it has anything to do with the price of the jeans or what the fabric costs though. As I have been wearing J brand, Page, Frame, NYDJ, True Religion and such and all of those are really some of the more expensive ones out there, too even. I don't ever pay normal ($80 to $175) price though, often even only $7.99 in the thrifts or $30 on sale someplace. Have worn lots of cheaper jeans in the past, and the same kind of thing happens there for me too even. Just the nature of denim, and the twill weave of it, with or without some of that lycra in it, I think.
Posted on: 9/1/15 8:26 PM ET
In reply to dianelwilson
When I still wore jeans I put the waist on a stretcher after washing (while drying) to achieve an already worn fit and I purchased sizing with that in mind. Run some wash, dry and stretch trials on your fabric to get an idea of what you are working with. If you have any hand weights around the house I suppose you could stitch up loops of denim, all the same width and length and take notes on how each of those reacts to a day of supporting the weight as far as stretch and recovery.
If I wear jeans again I've decided that I need something with a deep back yoke that is either made or lined with a fabric with excellent recovery. At this point I'd even cope with a tiny mismatch of fabric in the back yoke if it meant the pants would stay up all day without tugging. And, that could be somewhat disguised wth topstitching. The tugging feels soooooo undignified.
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If I wear jeans again I've decided that I need something with a deep back yoke that is either made or lined with a fabric with excellent recovery. At this point I'd even cope with a tiny mismatch of fabric in the back yoke if it meant the pants would stay up all day without tugging. And, that could be somewhat disguised wth topstitching. The tugging feels soooooo undignified.
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Each fallen petal reveals a life pollinated by a colony
and nurtured by The Master Gardener.
and nurtured by The Master Gardener.
Posted on: 9/1/15 9:17 PM ET
I have made the Angela Wolf "boot angel jeans" a few times (its designed for stretch denim) and she suggests putting stay tape in the waistband. This has helped tremendously!! I actually found that it kept the waistband a little too tight, so I started stitching the stay tape only 3/4 around the band. This has worked really well for me. As for the rest of the jeans: I do believe when sewing with stretch denim it is a combination of good quality denim and fitting them a little snug. If I use this pattern for a non stretch fabric, I have to allow for more ease.
Posted on: 9/1/15 9:26 PM ET
Here's what I do. Soak the denim in the hottest water possible in the tub overnight. Drip dry, as I never put jeans in the dryer. Use the preshrunk denim to make a tight pair. Always wash the same way unless they really grow then throw them to the dryer.
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