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How long should they last, and is there a good way to sharpen them? (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 12/13/15 3:10 PM ET
I feel like my rotary blades haven't lasted very long and wondering how long they SHOULD last. I'm using an Olfa 60mm blade right now that has been used for a while but maybe 6 months of irregular sewing (I'm not a daily sewer).
The blades aren't inexpensive and I'd love to sharpen and reuse them if possible. Or maybe this is just an expense I need to incur for a disposable product (blades)? Thanks for input....
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The blades aren't inexpensive and I'd love to sharpen and reuse them if possible. Or maybe this is just an expense I need to incur for a disposable product (blades)? Thanks for input....
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Bernina 630, Pfaff 2058, Babylock Eclipse DX, BLCS-2
Posted on: 12/13/15 3:18 PM ET
I like all Olfa's rotary cutters but I do not think the blades last long at all. I was cutting a bra with the smallest rotary cutter and it only lasted for one bra.
I would not attempt to resharpen these blades because I have purchased an electric rotary cutter with a built in sharpener and the sharpener must be used quite often to keep the cutting happening!
Best wishes.
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I would not attempt to resharpen these blades because I have purchased an electric rotary cutter with a built in sharpener and the sharpener must be used quite often to keep the cutting happening!
Best wishes.
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Bernina 535 , Artista 200E, Bernina 500, Bernina 740, BL Sashiko, Bernina 950, Bernina L890
Posted on: 12/13/15 3:31 PM ET
In reply to Melcalifornia
The two longest lasting brands of rotary cutter blades I've gotten hold of are Kai (has been sold in the US in Dritz packaging, but says Kai on the blade) and Martelli.
I'm pretty good at sharpening knife blades, but I haven't managed to restore a decent edge to any rotary blade. I consider them disposables.
Scissors blades, serger blades and rotary cutter blades do go "unsharp" feeling as they build up a coating from repeated use. If you carefully (yes, I'm shouting) wipe down the blades with a scrap of fabric doused with rubbing alcohol, methylated spirits, or plain high test vodka (no sugary stuff), you can remove the coating and the blade is "sharpened".
Be really careful with doing this to rotary cutter blades. It's really easy to slice yourself if you're not paying attention, and a doctor's bill will buy a whole stack of rotary blades.
I'm pretty good at sharpening knife blades, but I haven't managed to restore a decent edge to any rotary blade. I consider them disposables.
Scissors blades, serger blades and rotary cutter blades do go "unsharp" feeling as they build up a coating from repeated use. If you carefully (yes, I'm shouting) wipe down the blades with a scrap of fabric doused with rubbing alcohol, methylated spirits, or plain high test vodka (no sugary stuff), you can remove the coating and the blade is "sharpened".
Be really careful with doing this to rotary cutter blades. It's really easy to slice yourself if you're not paying attention, and a doctor's bill will buy a whole stack of rotary blades.
Posted on: 12/13/15 7:44 PM ET
...Having been ridiculously decommissioned last year by a similar weapon (the lid of a can of pumpkin), I think I'd be inclined to find a less dangerous alternative. (Sewing is really enhanced when all your appendages and digits are functioning normally, and tetanus shots are no fun, either.)
Harbor Freight Tools (often located near JoAnns in strip malls) apparently sells multipacks of small round blades that fit standard rotary cutters and are FAR less expensive than what's sold to seamstresses. I learned this trick here on PR.
Also, certain fabrics dull your blades faster (I know polar fleece is a notorious offender0. I bet part is the coating Kayl described; part is probably that cutting synthetics with a rotary cutter is akin to cutting paper with your good shears.
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Harbor Freight Tools (often located near JoAnns in strip malls) apparently sells multipacks of small round blades that fit standard rotary cutters and are FAR less expensive than what's sold to seamstresses. I learned this trick here on PR.
Also, certain fabrics dull your blades faster (I know polar fleece is a notorious offender0. I bet part is the coating Kayl described; part is probably that cutting synthetics with a rotary cutter is akin to cutting paper with your good shears.
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~Elizabeth in the prairie
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
Posted on: 12/13/15 7:50 PM ET
This doesn't have to do with dull blades per se, but here is a hint from someone who specializes in rotary blades and cutters: if your blade is still good, but has one or two small areas that aren't cutting, take that blade and another with the same problem and put both in cutter. This way you'll get some extended use from both blades and the odds of both blades having dull spots in the same area are high.
He also said to not press down any firmer than necessary to cut as a "heavy hand" dulls blades quicker.
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He also said to not press down any firmer than necessary to cut as a "heavy hand" dulls blades quicker.
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Oops, forgot what I was going to put here.
Posted on: 12/13/15 8:21 PM ET
Thanks ladies. I think that I might press down too hard on my blades when they are actually "sharp" and and then dulling them faster. It didn't really occur to me but yes, I'm pushing these cutters down hard into a rubber/plastic mat....of course that dulls the blade faster than cutting just into the fabric. I think that I will try wiping down the blade a little, and then look for the cheaper blades stirwater mentions...and of I can't find them, I will just try cheaper blades. My fiskers blades even seem to last longer than the Olfa. I'd been curious about those blade sharpeners but maybe this isn't worth the time or money, and I just need to replace them.
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Bernina 630, Pfaff 2058, Babylock Eclipse DX, BLCS-2
Posted on: 12/13/15 9:09 PM ET
In reply to stirwatersblue
I use the blades from Harbor Freight. At $2 for 2 blades it's a good buy.
I will readily admit that I sometimes get a bad blade in a pack but considering the price I can't complain. I buy 3-4 packs at a time and don't hesitate to change a blade that even hints at being dull.
My biggest complaint is that there's a coating on the blade when it comes out of the package that must be wiped off. I use an alcohol wipe and so far, knock on wood, it hasn't resulted in blood shed!
blades
Debbie
-- Edited on 12/13/15 at 9:13 PM --
I will readily admit that I sometimes get a bad blade in a pack but considering the price I can't complain. I buy 3-4 packs at a time and don't hesitate to change a blade that even hints at being dull.My biggest complaint is that there's a coating on the blade when it comes out of the package that must be wiped off. I use an alcohol wipe and so far, knock on wood, it hasn't resulted in blood shed!
blades
Debbie
-- Edited on 12/13/15 at 9:13 PM --
Posted on: 12/13/15 10:06 PM ET
Synthetic fabrics will definitely shorten the life of your blades so beware of fabric content.
I find if I take my cutter apart and wipe the blade down with sewing machine oil and then put it back together it gets a lot more life added on.
Ditto on the hard bearing down with the blade.
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I find if I take my cutter apart and wipe the blade down with sewing machine oil and then put it back together it gets a lot more life added on.
Ditto on the hard bearing down with the blade.
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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 12/13/15 10:26 PM ET
I did buy a rotary blade sharpener (can't remember where but if you want to know PM me and I'll look) and it does work, but not for long. I sharpen them once and get a little more cutting out of them and then toss them. I also find Kai blades are sharper and seem to last a little longer, but they are expensive.
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Mostly Babylock: Ellegante, Crescendo, Evolution, Ovation. Plus a Sailrite LSZ-1
Posted on: 12/14/15 9:04 AM ET
Lots of things contribute to dulling rotary blades, as well as imitate the feeling of a dull blade.
The smaller the blade, the more quickly it will dull. Think of the difference in the circumference of each sized blade, and you can see how much more work a smaller blade does.
There are good blades, bad blades and everything in-between. I've seldom (in over 25 years of using them) had one bad out of the package, but it can happen. I have a good stash of blades, since I take advantage of coupons and other sales; I only pay full price if there is not choice. Most of the blades in our supplies have been purchased at about 50% off.
Having the blade too tight in the cutter is a factor too. My newest cutter (I had a 25+ year old one break last month) is one of the Olfa ones that has an easy change feature, so there is no way to adjust how tight the blade is.On other styles, it is possible to have the blade too tight or to loose and it will not cut well at either extreme. the hint I got years ago in a great quilt class was to roll the cutter along the mat; if the blade rotates with little resistance (no wobbles) it is correct.
The cutting mat also has an effect. I'm not a fan of the Fiskars mat, some of the translucent white ones, or the harder feeling brands. I really like the Omnigrid mats (my largest one is also labeled Fons and Porter), but they are difficult to find and $$. The Olfa mats are good too, and most of mine are those. I have several sizes, and some of my mats are 20 years old or so. I have actually thrown out old mats, after using both sides and relegating some to non-precision use, such as craft cutting.
Using a mat with a dull blade can damage the mat, and they also get worn in use. I try to vary where I cut on the mats. Since I seldom use the marking on the mat to measure, that's not as difficult for me as for LQS that use the markings when they measure fabric. I've actually seen mats that have been cut so much at some spots that they've broken.
Keeping the cutter/blade oiled is good - add it at the center of the blade and cut a scrap piece of fabric.
ETA: Types of fabric can have an effect on blade life - cutting masses of Polartec for a group project did a number on the blades, mat and my shoulder. Hitting pins, rulers, templates etc., can do damage.
-- Edited on 12/14/15 at 9:10 AM --
-- Edited on 12/15/15 at 6:04 PM --
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The smaller the blade, the more quickly it will dull. Think of the difference in the circumference of each sized blade, and you can see how much more work a smaller blade does.
There are good blades, bad blades and everything in-between. I've seldom (in over 25 years of using them) had one bad out of the package, but it can happen. I have a good stash of blades, since I take advantage of coupons and other sales; I only pay full price if there is not choice. Most of the blades in our supplies have been purchased at about 50% off.
Having the blade too tight in the cutter is a factor too. My newest cutter (I had a 25+ year old one break last month) is one of the Olfa ones that has an easy change feature, so there is no way to adjust how tight the blade is.On other styles, it is possible to have the blade too tight or to loose and it will not cut well at either extreme. the hint I got years ago in a great quilt class was to roll the cutter along the mat; if the blade rotates with little resistance (no wobbles) it is correct.
The cutting mat also has an effect. I'm not a fan of the Fiskars mat, some of the translucent white ones, or the harder feeling brands. I really like the Omnigrid mats (my largest one is also labeled Fons and Porter), but they are difficult to find and $$. The Olfa mats are good too, and most of mine are those. I have several sizes, and some of my mats are 20 years old or so. I have actually thrown out old mats, after using both sides and relegating some to non-precision use, such as craft cutting.
Using a mat with a dull blade can damage the mat, and they also get worn in use. I try to vary where I cut on the mats. Since I seldom use the marking on the mat to measure, that's not as difficult for me as for LQS that use the markings when they measure fabric. I've actually seen mats that have been cut so much at some spots that they've broken.
Keeping the cutter/blade oiled is good - add it at the center of the blade and cut a scrap piece of fabric.
ETA: Types of fabric can have an effect on blade life - cutting masses of Polartec for a group project did a number on the blades, mat and my shoulder. Hitting pins, rulers, templates etc., can do damage.
-- Edited on 12/14/15 at 9:10 AM --
-- Edited on 12/15/15 at 6:04 PM --
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Bernina: 910, 440, 770 QE Plus
Bernina 1150MDA; L850
Brother Sashiko
Vintage/classic Singer: 201, 301, 221, 99 hand crank;
(1902) 28 hand crank - needs a new home
Bernina 1150MDA; L850
Brother Sashiko
Vintage/classic Singer: 201, 301, 221, 99 hand crank;
(1902) 28 hand crank - needs a new home
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