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Moderated by EleanorSews
Posted on: 2/13/16 4:47 PM ET
I can't believe this is happening to me.
I've never had a problem laying out a pattern piece on the fold until today.
I'm making a skirt and both front & back on the fold.Easy enough right?
The pattern does not line up with the fabric at all.
I've used this pattern before. It's cut properly.
should I iron the fabric so there is a crease on the fold?
I've never had a problem laying out a pattern piece on the fold until today.
I'm making a skirt and both front & back on the fold.Easy enough right?
The pattern does not line up with the fabric at all.
I've used this pattern before. It's cut properly.
should I iron the fabric so there is a crease on the fold?
Posted on: 2/13/16 4:57 PM ET
In reply to cakemix
I'm a little lost at what's causing the issue... I'm guessing there's a print that is offgrain?
Consider cutting your pattern pieces on folded paper, then unfolding the paper so you've got whole pieces to cut on single-ply fabric. The fold in the paper would then be the grain line.
Consider cutting your pattern pieces on folded paper, then unfolding the paper so you've got whole pieces to cut on single-ply fabric. The fold in the paper would then be the grain line.
Board Moderator
Member since 7/1/08
Posts: 5330
Member since 7/1/08
Posts: 5330
Massachusetts USA
Skill: Advanced
Skill: Advanced
Posted on: 2/13/16 5:28 PM ET
If you can post a picture of your dilemma perhaps we could be more help.
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Sewing: A creative mess is better than tidy idleness. ~Author Unknown
Posted on: 2/13/16 6:00 PM ET
In reply to cakemix
Continuing my earlier thoughts about an off-grain print being the problem here...
If this is a print (let's say stripes, for the sake of talking about it) is printed offgrain -- let's be really bad and say 15 degrees off the grain of the fabric, you've got some design choices to make.
Choice 1: Cut with the print off-grain and the actual weave of the fabric on-grain. Result: garment hangs properly, doesn't want to wrap around you or twist when you move, but the overall look is kinda peculiar. My probable choice if the print is off-grain a lot, and I would plan to wear it just around home.
Choice 2: Cut with the print as being "on grain" and let the weave of the fabric go off-grain. Your friends that sew will notice, but most people won't, unless the skirt is constantly twisting around you. You will probably have one side seam that wants to twist forward and the other twist backwards. But the stripes will be straight up and down.
Choice 3: change pattern plans. If you love the fabric, I'd look for a pattern that camouflages the deficiencies of the printing -- something like a multiple gore skirt, with its many seam lines may either totally confuse the off-grain printing effect, or you might be able to counter the twisting by cutting every other gore on the opposite grainlines, so the twists somewhat balance each other. Or use it for a part of a garment that you can visually confuse the eye with the cut... perhaps for a circular cut flounce on a skirt, or the like. Or switch plans and make it as a nightgown or pjs or robe.
Choice 4: don't use the fabric. Tough when you really love it. And expensive. (I won't buy printed stripes or plaids because of this -- I hate getting home and discovering part of the fabric is printed off-grain)
If this is a print (let's say stripes, for the sake of talking about it) is printed offgrain -- let's be really bad and say 15 degrees off the grain of the fabric, you've got some design choices to make.
Choice 1: Cut with the print off-grain and the actual weave of the fabric on-grain. Result: garment hangs properly, doesn't want to wrap around you or twist when you move, but the overall look is kinda peculiar. My probable choice if the print is off-grain a lot, and I would plan to wear it just around home.
Choice 2: Cut with the print as being "on grain" and let the weave of the fabric go off-grain. Your friends that sew will notice, but most people won't, unless the skirt is constantly twisting around you. You will probably have one side seam that wants to twist forward and the other twist backwards. But the stripes will be straight up and down.
Choice 3: change pattern plans. If you love the fabric, I'd look for a pattern that camouflages the deficiencies of the printing -- something like a multiple gore skirt, with its many seam lines may either totally confuse the off-grain printing effect, or you might be able to counter the twisting by cutting every other gore on the opposite grainlines, so the twists somewhat balance each other. Or use it for a part of a garment that you can visually confuse the eye with the cut... perhaps for a circular cut flounce on a skirt, or the like. Or switch plans and make it as a nightgown or pjs or robe.
Choice 4: don't use the fabric. Tough when you really love it. And expensive. (I won't buy printed stripes or plaids because of this -- I hate getting home and discovering part of the fabric is printed off-grain)
Posted on: 2/13/16 7:27 PM ET
Thank you all :)
I've been playing with the material a lot since I first posted. Got so frustrated that I left my project and decided to make a chocolate cake (flourless) My whole house smells delicious :)
I think the print on the material was twisted. I have never encountered this that I can remember.
How odd!
So I played some more with it all and I think I got it to look proper.
Fingers crossed- haven't cut it out yet!
I've been playing with the material a lot since I first posted. Got so frustrated that I left my project and decided to make a chocolate cake (flourless) My whole house smells delicious :)
I think the print on the material was twisted. I have never encountered this that I can remember.
How odd!
So I played some more with it all and I think I got it to look proper.
Fingers crossed- haven't cut it out yet!
Posted on: 2/13/16 7:39 PM ET
In reply to cakemix
Makes me crazy to have a piece cut, washed, and then completely wonky on the cutting table in regard to grain. Grrrr! Chocolate cake....did someone say chocolate cake!? I like your solution/medicine!
Posted on: 2/14/16 3:31 PM ET
So I cut out my fabric. I had adjusted the material, layed out & pinned my pattern, as always placed my left hand lightly on the pattern while cutting with my right hand.
I went straight across the seam line.
I unpinned, and opened up what I just cut out and it was/is all wonky- all wavy.
I'm having THE most difficult time trying to salvage this item.
I went straight across the seam line.
I unpinned, and opened up what I just cut out and it was/is all wonky- all wavy.

I'm having THE most difficult time trying to salvage this item.
Board Moderator
Member since 7/1/08
Posts: 5330
Member since 7/1/08
Posts: 5330
Massachusetts USA
Skill: Advanced
Skill: Advanced
Posted on: 2/14/16 5:02 PM ET
In reply to cakemix
Sometimes you can't salvage poorly woven fabric. If you are having trouble now, you most likely will never wear it. Can you find new fabric in your stash? What kind of fabric do you want?
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Sewing: A creative mess is better than tidy idleness. ~Author Unknown
Posted on: 2/14/16 5:10 PM ET
In reply to cakemix
This sounds like an excellent candidate for pjs, robes, nightgowns or potholders. Sorry.
Posted on: 2/14/16 6:11 PM ET
I am so upset
Can't afford to throw away money spent on this- but no one can- I know.
I undid the seams which I tried unsuccessfully tried to sew up - layed out the pattern piece on each side- the material will not cooperate. It keeps shifting.
No wonder it's all wonky /wavy.
I can't remember anything like this before- oh well

Can't afford to throw away money spent on this- but no one can- I know.
I undid the seams which I tried unsuccessfully tried to sew up - layed out the pattern piece on each side- the material will not cooperate. It keeps shifting.
No wonder it's all wonky /wavy.
I can't remember anything like this before- oh well
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