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I'd love tips - and I'd *really* love pictures! (Moderated by Deepika)
Posted on: 2/15/16 1:56 AM ET
Hello there! I'm making up a jacket - Bootstrap Fashion's Long-Sleeved Jacket with Asymmetrical Closing - and I'm struggling with how to proceed. I have written-only instructions, no pictures, and I am a pictorial learner!
I have two questions. The first is, would you put any buttons or closures on the inner front placket edge? The pattern requires you put buttons on the left and buttonholes on the right. Would you add any inner closure to the coat?
My second question is about the darts and pockets in the jacket. Here is the jacket front pattern piece:
I have made one of these fronts for one of their other patterns before, and I had trouble with the concept, because I don't know what seam allowances to add or how to proceed. Ultimately you are ending up with a welt pocket opening smack-dab on the stitched-together slash lines. I'd like to know how you all might proceed, as this is only the second time I've used this construction method.
And finally - I am working with an interfaced wool (fused) and a cotton underlining.
Here are the instructions concerning these darts and pockets:
3. Fold welt in half lengthwise right side out and stitch side seams. Clip into corners, turn right side out and press.
4. Stitch front darts, trim darts depth and press open. Reinforce pocket opening with fusible interfacing. Stitch Side Fronts to center Fronts, press open.
5. Cut 2 big and 2 small pocket bags out of lining fabric. Make sure length of small pocket bag is 1 3/4" (4.5 cm) + 3/8" (1 cm) for each seam, big pocket bag 3 1/4" (8 cm) + 3/8" (1 cm) for each
seam. Make sure pocket bags width matches pocket opening + 3/8" (1 cm) for each seam.
6. Mark pocket opening line, mark lines on the welt and pocket facing. Place pocket facing and Front right sides together and stitch along pocket opening upper seam. Place welt and pocket opening
right sides together, place big pocket bag on top of the welt and stitch together along opening lower seam. Make sure stitching lines go in parallel to each other. Cut the pocket opening. Clip pocket opening seams toward corners at 3/8"-5/8"(1-1.5 cm) from ends. Fold welt and pocket facing on the wrong side. Stitch small pocket bags to the pocket facing. Backstitch at pocket opening corners on the wrong side. Stitch welt side seams on the Front in the ditch. Stitch big pocket bag to small pocket bag and facing.
Thank you!
I have two questions. The first is, would you put any buttons or closures on the inner front placket edge? The pattern requires you put buttons on the left and buttonholes on the right. Would you add any inner closure to the coat?
My second question is about the darts and pockets in the jacket. Here is the jacket front pattern piece:
I have made one of these fronts for one of their other patterns before, and I had trouble with the concept, because I don't know what seam allowances to add or how to proceed. Ultimately you are ending up with a welt pocket opening smack-dab on the stitched-together slash lines. I'd like to know how you all might proceed, as this is only the second time I've used this construction method.
And finally - I am working with an interfaced wool (fused) and a cotton underlining.
Here are the instructions concerning these darts and pockets:
3. Fold welt in half lengthwise right side out and stitch side seams. Clip into corners, turn right side out and press.
4. Stitch front darts, trim darts depth and press open. Reinforce pocket opening with fusible interfacing. Stitch Side Fronts to center Fronts, press open.
5. Cut 2 big and 2 small pocket bags out of lining fabric. Make sure length of small pocket bag is 1 3/4" (4.5 cm) + 3/8" (1 cm) for each seam, big pocket bag 3 1/4" (8 cm) + 3/8" (1 cm) for each
seam. Make sure pocket bags width matches pocket opening + 3/8" (1 cm) for each seam.
6. Mark pocket opening line, mark lines on the welt and pocket facing. Place pocket facing and Front right sides together and stitch along pocket opening upper seam. Place welt and pocket opening
right sides together, place big pocket bag on top of the welt and stitch together along opening lower seam. Make sure stitching lines go in parallel to each other. Cut the pocket opening. Clip pocket opening seams toward corners at 3/8"-5/8"(1-1.5 cm) from ends. Fold welt and pocket facing on the wrong side. Stitch small pocket bags to the pocket facing. Backstitch at pocket opening corners on the wrong side. Stitch welt side seams on the Front in the ditch. Stitch big pocket bag to small pocket bag and facing.
Thank you!
Posted on: 2/15/16 8:25 AM ET
In reply to kellyhogaboom
sorry no picture tutorial for welt pocket making.
The only advice I can give is that you cut right on the slanted horizontal lines, there will be no seam allowance there. Cut just far enough so you can sew the dart.
it is best to press the dart open, and you can either flatten it or cut it, and reduce the bulk at the pocket line.
Use a piece of straight grain fusible to join the cut edges of the pocket opening together. Do this over a ham.
If you are worried about it holding, you can zig over the edges.
Join the side panel on, press etc.
Then cut/slash line that is now held together by the fusible will be where you will cut your welt pocket opening. You will sew your welt below the slash and facing above that slash line and proceed as usual with making the pocket.
There are so many ways of making welt pockets, the way they describe is only one of them......if you don't make them often instructions can be difficult to visualize i agree!
May e try a sample welt on a scrap of fabric first?
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The only advice I can give is that you cut right on the slanted horizontal lines, there will be no seam allowance there. Cut just far enough so you can sew the dart.
it is best to press the dart open, and you can either flatten it or cut it, and reduce the bulk at the pocket line.
Use a piece of straight grain fusible to join the cut edges of the pocket opening together. Do this over a ham.
If you are worried about it holding, you can zig over the edges.
Join the side panel on, press etc.
Then cut/slash line that is now held together by the fusible will be where you will cut your welt pocket opening. You will sew your welt below the slash and facing above that slash line and proceed as usual with making the pocket.
There are so many ways of making welt pockets, the way they describe is only one of them......if you don't make them often instructions can be difficult to visualize i agree!
May e try a sample welt on a scrap of fabric first?
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http://atailormadeit.blogspot.ca/
Posted on: 2/15/16 3:26 PM ET
In reply to tailored
Thank you!
No matter how many times I've made something, I often find myself wanting illustrations or photos. It's just how I'm wired I guess! (and why I include lots of drawings and photos in my own tutorials).
I have made many welt pockets many different ways. When I first made a welt pocket on this slashed-and-fused (and zig zagged) front, one of my sides was perfect and the other I somehow "missed" that slashed point! You can imagine how frustrating that was (I had to make another front).
Thank you for your advice. Thank you re: seam allowances. I think I am going to stitch the dart lines to the underlining, 1/16" from the dart lines. Then trim 1/8" - 1/4" from the seam lines. Then proceed.
You say - "Use a piece of straight grain fusible to join the cut edges of the pocket opening together. Do this over a ham." I have a ham. What are the advantages of using a ham, in this case?
No matter how many times I've made something, I often find myself wanting illustrations or photos. It's just how I'm wired I guess! (and why I include lots of drawings and photos in my own tutorials).
I have made many welt pockets many different ways. When I first made a welt pocket on this slashed-and-fused (and zig zagged) front, one of my sides was perfect and the other I somehow "missed" that slashed point! You can imagine how frustrating that was (I had to make another front).
Thank you for your advice. Thank you re: seam allowances. I think I am going to stitch the dart lines to the underlining, 1/16" from the dart lines. Then trim 1/8" - 1/4" from the seam lines. Then proceed.
You say - "Use a piece of straight grain fusible to join the cut edges of the pocket opening together. Do this over a ham." I have a ham. What are the advantages of using a ham, in this case?
Posted on: 2/15/16 4:58 PM ET
In reply to kellyhogaboom
Do you happen to have a copy of Cabrera and Meyers' Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Menswear? It has an excellent set of instructions on welt pockets of various sorts done across darts, very step by step.
Expensive book, even used, but well worth having, imho. Your interlibrary loan department of the local public library can borrow a copy for you, too: http://www.worldcat.org/title/classic-tailoring-techniques-a-construction-guide-for-mens-wear/oclc/833682096?referer=br&ht=edition
Expensive book, even used, but well worth having, imho. Your interlibrary loan department of the local public library can borrow a copy for you, too: http://www.worldcat.org/title/classic-tailoring-techniques-a-construction-guide-for-mens-wear/oclc/833682096?referer=br&ht=edition
Posted on: 2/16/16 0:13 AM ET
In reply to kayl
Thank you! :)
Posted on: 2/16/16 4:18 AM ET
In reply to kellyhogaboom
Are you sure it has any real pockets? The reason I think it may not have any is when I look at the image they put up for it here:
http://patterns.bootstrapfashion.com/sewing-patterns/women/runway-trend-vintage/fashion-designer-sewing-patterns-long-sleeved-jacket-with-asymmetrical-closing.html#.VsLndU-2qC8
I see no pattern piece for any pocket bags (the part that makes it a real pocket) at all. So that leads me to think,(or wonder) that maybe there is no welt pocket at all, and just a fake strip of fabric there maybe,more like a "faux pocket" to just maybe look like it has a pocket instead? If not, and it really has a real pocket, then I think there is something wrong with their advertising illustration instead, because where are the pocket pieces then and why do they not show those there?
http://patterns.bootstrapfashion.com/sewing-patterns/women/runway-trend-vintage/fashion-designer-sewing-patterns-long-sleeved-jacket-with-asymmetrical-closing.html#.VsLndU-2qC8
I see no pattern piece for any pocket bags (the part that makes it a real pocket) at all. So that leads me to think,(or wonder) that maybe there is no welt pocket at all, and just a fake strip of fabric there maybe,more like a "faux pocket" to just maybe look like it has a pocket instead? If not, and it really has a real pocket, then I think there is something wrong with their advertising illustration instead, because where are the pocket pieces then and why do they not show those there?
Posted on: 2/16/16 11:42 AM ET
In the OP's instructions posted, it says how big to cut the pocket bags. No pattern piece, measurements. They are real pockets.
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Absolutely loving my Janome 500e embroidery machine, very creative. Problem with all my stash for clothing!
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Absolutely loving my Janome 500e embroidery machine, very creative. Problem with all my stash for clothing!
Posted on: 2/16/16 12:16 PM ET
In reply to kellyhogaboom
There is a search term in this thread that will pull up a group of great threads on welt pockets.
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Each fallen petal reveals a life pollinated by a colony
and nurtured by The Master Gardener.
and nurtured by The Master Gardener.
Posted on: 2/16/16 6:57 PM ET
Definitely has real pockets.
I closed the darts entirely, including at the slash line - they look gorgeous. I'm thinking if I want to put in some other pockets or in-seam pockets now. Or do welt pockets but shift them a bit. Decisions, decisions!
I closed the darts entirely, including at the slash line - they look gorgeous. I'm thinking if I want to put in some other pockets or in-seam pockets now. Or do welt pockets but shift them a bit. Decisions, decisions!
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