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Moderated by Deepika
Posted on: 6/17/16 6:53 AM ET
Hi!
I'm trying to make a blouse like this:

But my sequin fabric isn't quite stiff enough.
Any suggestions on interfacing sequin fabrics? I'm hesitant to use fusible, but it definitely needs some structure.
I plan on lining it with a light weight poly satin.
Thanks!
-- Edited on 6/17/16 at 6:53 AM --
I'm trying to make a blouse like this:

But my sequin fabric isn't quite stiff enough.
Any suggestions on interfacing sequin fabrics? I'm hesitant to use fusible, but it definitely needs some structure.
I plan on lining it with a light weight poly satin.
Thanks!
-- Edited on 6/17/16 at 6:53 AM --
Posted on: 6/17/16 10:39 AM ET
Have you ever sewn with sequin fabric before? It is quite labor intensive.
You do not want to use fusible interfacing on sequins.
The sequin mesh fabric is a fluid fabric. Any interfacing needs to be done on the lining on the inside of the garment. Any interfacing that is against the sequin fabric will show through the mesh.
Sorry, this needed to be brief since I have to run
You do not want to use fusible interfacing on sequins.
The sequin mesh fabric is a fluid fabric. Any interfacing needs to be done on the lining on the inside of the garment. Any interfacing that is against the sequin fabric will show through the mesh.
Sorry, this needed to be brief since I have to run
Posted on: 6/17/16 11:14 AM ET
In reply to jordy
You would be surprised how much body the finished garment will have once the hem is turned under on the edges. Lining it with a poly is just fine though.
No on the fusing.
If it is just sequins on the fabric and they are in a fairly flat pattern, it will not be so bad to work with. If there are sequins all piled up and overlapping each other, you will need to be extra careful and practice on scraps. Heavy needle, longer stiches (3mm or more).
If there are BEADS in addition to the sequins, then that will take more prep work to remove the beads that will be in the path of your pressure foot and needle. I actually do something quite evil when I'm feeling impatient. I know I just said "no" the fusing... but I take strips of fusing about 3/4" wide and very carefully fuse all the seam allowances. Then I lay it on the concrete with kraft paper underneath the fabric and take a sledge hammer to the seam allowances and pulverize the beads and it flattens the sequins. I use a toothbrush to brush away the bits and pieces. The fusing keeps the stray threads that held the beads in tact- this way the other beads that I didn't smash do not wander off.
Of course, experiment on scraps, wear safety goggles.
If you top is going to be a pullover, that would be ideal.... having to sew a zipper in may not be fun.
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No on the fusing.
If it is just sequins on the fabric and they are in a fairly flat pattern, it will not be so bad to work with. If there are sequins all piled up and overlapping each other, you will need to be extra careful and practice on scraps. Heavy needle, longer stiches (3mm or more).
If there are BEADS in addition to the sequins, then that will take more prep work to remove the beads that will be in the path of your pressure foot and needle. I actually do something quite evil when I'm feeling impatient. I know I just said "no" the fusing... but I take strips of fusing about 3/4" wide and very carefully fuse all the seam allowances. Then I lay it on the concrete with kraft paper underneath the fabric and take a sledge hammer to the seam allowances and pulverize the beads and it flattens the sequins. I use a toothbrush to brush away the bits and pieces. The fusing keeps the stray threads that held the beads in tact- this way the other beads that I didn't smash do not wander off.
Of course, experiment on scraps, wear safety goggles.
If you top is going to be a pullover, that would be ideal.... having to sew a zipper in may not be fun.
------
-Catina
PaTTernHack.com
PaTTernHack.com
Posted on: 6/17/16 11:16 AM ET
Sorry, like I said I had to run. Here are a few more thoughts on handling sequin fabric.
Be sure you identify the "nap" of the sequins. All the pieces need to go in the same direction. The shading will be different if they aren't all going in the same direction.
When you cut out the pieces be sure the wrong side of the fabric is facing up and in a single layer. The pattern pieces can be held in place with weights. A rotary cutter will make the job go smoother. It will also prevent your scissors from being dulled by the sequins.
Mark all the seam lines with contrasting basing thread. Then use either a small pair of sharp scissors or a seam ripper and remove all of the sequins in the seam. It makes the fabric easier to sew and will reduce the bulk in the seam.
Once the garment is sewn together You can sew in by hand sequins taken from scraps to fill in any bald patches on the outside of the garment.
Hope this helps.
Be sure you identify the "nap" of the sequins. All the pieces need to go in the same direction. The shading will be different if they aren't all going in the same direction.
When you cut out the pieces be sure the wrong side of the fabric is facing up and in a single layer. The pattern pieces can be held in place with weights. A rotary cutter will make the job go smoother. It will also prevent your scissors from being dulled by the sequins.
Mark all the seam lines with contrasting basing thread. Then use either a small pair of sharp scissors or a seam ripper and remove all of the sequins in the seam. It makes the fabric easier to sew and will reduce the bulk in the seam.
Once the garment is sewn together You can sew in by hand sequins taken from scraps to fill in any bald patches on the outside of the garment.
Hope this helps.
Posted on: 6/18/16 9:28 AM ET
Thanks for replies and great advice!
I've actually already cut and mostly sewn together the sequin layer. I have some extra fabric and may re-cut and sew (I reaaaaaally don't want to pick out the stitches because they're hard to see. ) Maybe I'll interface the satin lining and see how that affects the drape.
I was able to use my industrial machine with a sharp needle and had no problems going through the fabric. Maybe it's the type of sequins, but my machine was OK with it. I didn't even remove the sequins at the seams! I know this isn't the proper technique, but I figure if if I understand the risks and it's working, I'm going for it.
I'll let you know how it goes!
Thanks!😁
I've actually already cut and mostly sewn together the sequin layer. I have some extra fabric and may re-cut and sew (I reaaaaaally don't want to pick out the stitches because they're hard to see. ) Maybe I'll interface the satin lining and see how that affects the drape.
I was able to use my industrial machine with a sharp needle and had no problems going through the fabric. Maybe it's the type of sequins, but my machine was OK with it. I didn't even remove the sequins at the seams! I know this isn't the proper technique, but I figure if if I understand the risks and it's working, I'm going for it.
I'll let you know how it goes!
Thanks!😁
Posted on: 6/18/16 10:15 AM ET
In reply to jordy
I have an industrial machine and work in fashion production.... your way is the same correct way we do it all day and night. lol. It doesn't always work that way though for home sewing machines and certain beaded fabrics.
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-Catina
PaTTernHack.com
PaTTernHack.com
Posted on: 6/18/16 11:54 AM ET
I use pliers if I need to remove beads, especially large ones, that will be in the seam allowance or the seam itself. Besides that, I sew the seam as usual, through the sequins and/or beads. Hold the fabric over a wastebasket or paper to catch the pieces of beads, put them between the pliers, and squeeze. Glasses or safety glasses are good, too.
Posted on: 6/18/16 3:01 PM ET
In reply to jordy
I have an industrial machine and work in fashion production.... your way is the same correct way we do it all day and night. lol. It doesn't always work that way though for home sewing machines and certain beaded fabrics.
------
------
-Catina
PaTTernHack.com
PaTTernHack.com
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