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Posted on: 12/28/16 3:56 PM ET
posted this on beginners forum... maybe better here....
I'm trying to sew a binding on a leotard neckline using Jalie method( fold 2x and top stitch).While topstitching( 2 80/12 needles, wide setting) , every time I stop to unpin, the machine skips a stitch. Is this a tension issue , or something else?
  
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Posted on: 12/28/16 4:00 PM ET
In reply to chickenne
I don't have this machine, but I do have a question - are you raising the presser foot or anything when you stop to unpin, or are you just letting up on the foot pedal, removing a pin, and then you press the pedal again and that's when it skips a stitch?
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Posted on: 12/28/16 4:21 PM ET
In reply to chickenne
I've had my BLCS for about 10 years and have never had this problem. The front of the machine specifies Schmetz EL x 705 needles, either 80/12s or 90/14s, but I've always used 90/14s for coverstitching on all fabric types (including knit jerseys). Note that the EL x 705 needle system used for coverstitching is a different system than that used on a regular sewing machine or a Babylock serger.

If you've already got the correct needles, I'd go back over everything that you're doing before and during stitching to see whether something you're doing inadvertently is causing the skipped stitches - including whether you're lifting the presser foot and releasing the tensions each time you remove a pin as suggested by dmh1 above. You want to avoid doing that until you're ready to release the entire leotard at the end of the seam. It is a feature of the BLCS to release the tensions when the presser foot is lifted. So, just keep the presser foot down consistently all the way around the neckline.

If all of that fails, you may want to consider quickly basting the binding to the leotard neckline down the center of where the two coverstitch lines will be. Be sure that the number of fabric layers remains the same, and lays evenly on the stitch plate as you stitch around the neckline - so there are no highs and lows for the presser foot to meet. Finally, for finer knits or something like a leotard neckline, I would use the narrow width needle spacing. I tend to prefer the narrow width needle spacing for knits anyway, as I think it looks a bit more professional.

HTH
Edited to add that you shouldn't worry, because this will all become second nature over time. The BLCS is a fabulous coverstitch machine. And as you get more and more comfortable using your BLCS, you won't feel the need to pause at all to take out the pins. On the occasions that I've pinned something in place, I've just stitched slowly and removed the pins as I stitch.
-- Edited on 12/28/16 at 4:33 PM --
  
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Posted on: 12/28/16 7:22 PM ET
In reply to chickenne
Are you using needles for knits or for wovens? If your needles are for wovens the machine can be fussy, especially if the fabric is on the light weight side.
  
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Posted on: 12/28/16 7:44 PM ET
Thanks all for the advice . I'm still learning about this machine , and boy is it a workhorse! I think I have the right kind of needles , though I may need to play around with the sizes. I found that the 80/ 12 did better when I top stitched over the elastic than when I stitched the spandex alone.. hmmm. Also my needles are Organ rather than Schmetz and they have a SUK designation after the EL -705 , which I don't know what means.
I ended up rethreading the looper ( still having trouble determining whether that tension is engaged.... seems real loose...)and turning the tensions way up and got a usable result. Am I gonna have to test tensions and essentially start over on my learning curve every time!!!???😆
  
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Posted on: 12/28/16 7:49 PM ET
And also , thanks for the tip about keeping my layers even under the presser foot and basting down the middle.! That's gonna help a lot , because I have found myself having to , again, fiddle with the tension on one needle or the other to compensate for the uneven layers! Wow! You guys are so smart snd helpful!! What s great resource this is!
  
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Posted on: 12/28/16 8:08 PM ET
In reply to chickenne
Not doubting what you've written, but can you check again if the needles are EL 705...or ELx 705?? The 'x' indicates the needle is a tad longer which is needed for coverstitch and if they are the EL (no 'x') this causes skipped stitches.

Most ELx needles are SUV or CF which is a slight ballpoint so are compatible with both woven and knit fabrics.

Just had a quick look at the owners manual and this info is on p7. Don't be lead astray by the dealer who may have supplied the incorrect needle...it happens everywhere unfortunately...but if they don't have ELx's then look online and buy in bulk, you will find they will also be much cheaper.

Once you have the type of needle (ELx705), then worry about the size which should suit the thread and fabric. Same goes for tension. I bought needles in bulk from Diamond Needle in NJ as they were the only place to ship internationally, but their minimum order was 100 needles and I bought a pack of 100 of each size (3) and split the order with a friend. Each needle works out at around Au0.40 and I'll have enough to last a lifetime...if I live until I'm 200yo!!

Seriously though, my overlocker also uses these needles for some stitch combinations, while others use non-'x' needles, so I just use them all the time, but check if your overlocker can use the 'x' needles...some don't.

Hope this helps? ;-)
  
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Posted on: 12/29/16 2:20 AM ET
I have the Janome Coverpro, but one thing I learned was to make sure I place the needles down into the fabric any time I stop to take a pin out, adjust the fabric, etc. If I leave the needles up, I would sometimes get a skipped stitch.

Also before coverstitching anything, I put the folded edge wrong side up on the machine to see where the needles will hit, and make sure both needles are going to sew on both (or all) layers of fabric. Place a strip of painters tape on the machine bed to be a fabric guide. Turn your fabric right side up and line it up against your tape. This insures that the needles are going to sew evenly on the fabric layers, and the inside criss-cross stitch will be exactly on the edge of the hem just like in RTW garments.

Painters tape will pull off easily and not harm your machine. You can use it several times before having to replace it with another strip.
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Sewing keeps me from falling apart at the seams!
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
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Posted on: 12/29/16 11:20 AM ET
I checked again and My needles are correct, and I don't seem to have the problem as much any more, though I still need to learn more sbout adjusting tension... especially on the looper. I noticed that when I stopped and the needles were up, the thread sort of looped up behind the needles and that's when it skipped the stitch, so I increased the tension until that loose loop didn't happen anymore. I'll also make sure to try to stop with needles in the fabric as sewlibra suggested. I think another mistake was leaving everything too loose in an attempt to accommodate stretch.
  
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Posted on: 12/29/16 12:10 PM ET
In reply to chickenne
There haven't been too many places to reliably learn about how to use a cover stitch, in my experience. I wanted to share a good one, in case you haven't found it yet. Debbie, a member here at PR, blogs at Stitches and Seams and has done the best series of posts on using cover stitch machines.

There is also a new cover stitch class on Craftsy that I think is great. If you sign up through the link on the instructor's website, there is a 50% discount. It doesn't really deal with tension, and other things you can find in your manual. Read the class description if you think you might take the class. NAYY.
-- Edited on 12/29/16 at 12:13 PM --
  
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