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Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952
Posted on: 1/17/17 4:39 PM ET
Hi all:
When looking at patterns I see so many nice shirts that look good. However, most of them say something like "woven", or "woven cotton". They seldom also say "woolen". How could I tell when a pattern like this could also be used for a light-medium weight wool. Something like a lumberjack wool, but lighter?
When looking at patterns I see so many nice shirts that look good. However, most of them say something like "woven", or "woven cotton". They seldom also say "woolen". How could I tell when a pattern like this could also be used for a light-medium weight wool. Something like a lumberjack wool, but lighter?
Posted on: 1/17/17 5:37 PM ET
I think you could switch fiber content whenever you see fit. Just remember that you shouldn't wash a wool shirt as frequently as you could a cotton or a poly/cotton shirt--it would shrink and then not fit well. So consider the entire lifecycle of the garment, including how to care for it.
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Bongoramsey
Posted on: 1/17/17 5:38 PM ET
In reply to alpenrose
You can go from a shirt weight cotton woven to a shirt weight wool woven any time you like. Likewise from a heavy woven cotton to a comparable weight wool. The fiber isn't nearly as important as matching the drape the patternmaker intended.
Posted on: 1/17/17 11:07 PM ET
Yes, but so many patterns only state "woven" they do not state the weight of the cotton cloth fabric. I can see by the picture if something is draping loosely fallen, but I cannot determine the weight if it looks like a man's shirt, or a classical women's tailored short. I have not yet started to work with knits so they are not part of my concern--yet!
Posted on: 1/17/17 11:34 PM ET
In reply to alpenrose
Yeah, that is one of my major beefs with pattern company information -- the list of suggested fabrics usually confuses fiber and fabric names and adds things that don't drape anything alike. I once saw an envelope suggesting corduroy, silk and canvas. 
I used to try to guess from the majority of suggestions on the list. Now I just choose a fabric and hope.

I used to try to guess from the majority of suggestions on the list. Now I just choose a fabric and hope.
Posted on: 1/18/17 0:53 AM ET
This is what happens when there are so few local fabric stores. Growing up, I had the wonderful opportunity to learn how woven/knit wools, cottons, silks, or whatever felt and draped by going to one of the four (4!) fabric stores in my small southern Oregon hometown. Now, so much of that fabric education would have to happen over the internet - what???
Since it is unlikely we'll ever again see so many local fabric stores, my recommendation is to get your fabric education by snoop shopping regular stores and thrift stores, paying attention to fabric labels, and by ordering swatches from web stores. Lastly, a really great resource is the Educational Swatch Package available from Fabric Mart (NAYY) - click on Notions in the top bar menu. It is a $15 investment in knowledgeable fabric shopping.
(Incidentally, sewing with wool can be become completely addictive. It comes in every fabric weight, from tissue to double coating, and it practically leaps to do your bidding. Setting in sleeves in wool is a dream come true. Sorry to go over the top, can you tell I love to sew with wool?)
Since it is unlikely we'll ever again see so many local fabric stores, my recommendation is to get your fabric education by snoop shopping regular stores and thrift stores, paying attention to fabric labels, and by ordering swatches from web stores. Lastly, a really great resource is the Educational Swatch Package available from Fabric Mart (NAYY) - click on Notions in the top bar menu. It is a $15 investment in knowledgeable fabric shopping.
(Incidentally, sewing with wool can be become completely addictive. It comes in every fabric weight, from tissue to double coating, and it practically leaps to do your bidding. Setting in sleeves in wool is a dream come true. Sorry to go over the top, can you tell I love to sew with wool?)
Posted on: 1/18/17 1:23 AM ET
In reply to silversewist
OK Silver--I'll be back at you !
Posted on: 1/18/17 1:49 AM ET
In reply to alpenrose
The only difference is this: If the pattern specifies something like 'knits with x amount of stretch,' then you know you cannot use a woven fabric. Patterns for knits use the inherent stretch of most knits to go around bodily curves. By contrast, patterns for woven use darts, seams, and other shaping methods to accomplish this kind of shaping.
OK, so then there's the question of what kind of woven. Often, the pattern description gives you a clue. For example, this pattern tells you not only that you need a woven, but that it should be "Drapey Silks or Rayons, Soft Cottons, Lightweight to Medium-Weight Linens."
In other words, drapey, lightweight woven, but not canvas or boiled wool, right?
This one, specifies "Broadcloth, Linen, Shantung. These are woven fabrics that are more tightly woven and stable.
Woven wool, like any woven fabric, can be of various weights, loosely woven and drapy, or tightly woven and stiff, so it's a matter of learning to read the print descriptions and suggestions--and extrapolating from there: You have to ask yourself, "Would this woven wool behave more like rayon or more like cotton broadcloth or tent fabric?"
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OK, so then there's the question of what kind of woven. Often, the pattern description gives you a clue. For example, this pattern tells you not only that you need a woven, but that it should be "Drapey Silks or Rayons, Soft Cottons, Lightweight to Medium-Weight Linens."
In other words, drapey, lightweight woven, but not canvas or boiled wool, right?
This one, specifies "Broadcloth, Linen, Shantung. These are woven fabrics that are more tightly woven and stable.
Woven wool, like any woven fabric, can be of various weights, loosely woven and drapy, or tightly woven and stiff, so it's a matter of learning to read the print descriptions and suggestions--and extrapolating from there: You have to ask yourself, "Would this woven wool behave more like rayon or more like cotton broadcloth or tent fabric?"
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Elona
Posted on: 1/18/17 9:58 AM ET
In reply to Elona
Ah ha (says the woman waiting for her Liberty package to arrive)! I love wool and already have two nice pieces in my stash that I swore I would cook up for this winter--I have to get started now (or maybe next week after the taxes are done). Thank you
Posted on: 1/18/17 6:40 PM ET
Lakaribane recently mentioned something I'd not heard before: The list of recommended fabrics goes from best, better, good. So if a jacket pattern says "brocade, canvas, linen," then that gives you a hint about what drape the designer intended.
You can also work backward from your fabric. When it gets to you, drape it on your dress form--or a table, like Fabric Mart--and think about what it looks/feels/behaves most light. Is it lightweight, smooth, and drapey (suiting)? Is it medium weight and fuzzy (flannel)? Does it look/feel like other jackets you own, or does it seem more like blouse/dress? Once you've determined what the fabric wants to be when it grows up, select a pattern that looks similar. If you're unsure, check reviews. If there are no reviews (here or on blogs, or at least pix on IG... or whatever the cool kids are using these days!), then either pick another pattern, or decide to strike out boldly on your own and be the first!
Good luck!
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You can also work backward from your fabric. When it gets to you, drape it on your dress form--or a table, like Fabric Mart--and think about what it looks/feels/behaves most light. Is it lightweight, smooth, and drapey (suiting)? Is it medium weight and fuzzy (flannel)? Does it look/feel like other jackets you own, or does it seem more like blouse/dress? Once you've determined what the fabric wants to be when it grows up, select a pattern that looks similar. If you're unsure, check reviews. If there are no reviews (here or on blogs, or at least pix on IG... or whatever the cool kids are using these days!), then either pick another pattern, or decide to strike out boldly on your own and be the first!
Good luck!
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~Elizabeth in the prairie
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
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