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Don't get it (Moderated by Deepika)
Posted on: 2/2/17 4:34 PM ET
OK I feel like a total idiot because despite having a number of projects under my belt including shirts, coats, fancy collars and dresses etc I never really learnt any bias tape techniques. Mainly because I hate bias tape and think it looks icky, generally. So I skipped right past it about three garments into learning 
I am now presented with a need for a bias facing as I'm following a pattern as-is and don't have enough fabric for lining anyway. I'm totally baffled by the instructions for the bias facing.
I've cut the strips (pattern pieces provided) and pressed along the fold line. But I just can't figure out how it wants me to sew it.
Does it want me to leave the bias tape folded, and pin both raw edges of the tape to the raw edge of the bodice? But doing that leaves me with bias tape of only a few mm wide after the stitch line so that can't be right. But the instructions never state to unfold it once the fold line is pressed, and the drawing is pretty tiny. Turning it under is nearly impossible, and raw edges poke out. It looks awful. Is that just what bias tape is? Awful?
Any ideas?

-- Edited on 2/2/17 at 4:48 PM --
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I am now presented with a need for a bias facing as I'm following a pattern as-is and don't have enough fabric for lining anyway. I'm totally baffled by the instructions for the bias facing.
I've cut the strips (pattern pieces provided) and pressed along the fold line. But I just can't figure out how it wants me to sew it.
Does it want me to leave the bias tape folded, and pin both raw edges of the tape to the raw edge of the bodice? But doing that leaves me with bias tape of only a few mm wide after the stitch line so that can't be right. But the instructions never state to unfold it once the fold line is pressed, and the drawing is pretty tiny. Turning it under is nearly impossible, and raw edges poke out. It looks awful. Is that just what bias tape is? Awful?
Any ideas?

-- Edited on 2/2/17 at 4:48 PM --
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www.plusgirlsews.com
Posted on: 2/2/17 4:52 PM ET
Here's a picture of it folded under. You can see that it's absolutely miniscule and going to be a nightmare to sew, and barely even covers the raw edge.
Anyone else think bias tape is a way to say "hey look at this lovely garment I made! Now look at its hideous hackjob finishes!"

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Anyone else think bias tape is a way to say "hey look at this lovely garment I made! Now look at its hideous hackjob finishes!"

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www.plusgirlsews.com
Posted on: 2/2/17 4:52 PM ET
Help me out here, would you? You've got a facing piece cut on the bias, complete with notches, and you're wanting to substitute commercial double fold bias tape for it?
Or you're just calling the pattern pieces bias tape, and the notches don't seem to align with anything?
Or you're just calling the pattern pieces bias tape, and the notches don't seem to align with anything?
Posted on: 2/2/17 4:57 PM ET
Bias facing is really useful.
just use bias strips, fold lengthwise in half only once, wrong sides together. Sew the two raw edges of the tape to the raw edge of the garment on the right side. So three raw edges together.
Now turn the folded edge of the tape to the wrong side of the garment along the line you've just stitched.
Tada! All raw edges enclosed!
OK, you'll need to maybe grade and understitch, then top stitch, but its a very RTW finish done correctly.
just use bias strips, fold lengthwise in half only once, wrong sides together. Sew the two raw edges of the tape to the raw edge of the garment on the right side. So three raw edges together.
Now turn the folded edge of the tape to the wrong side of the garment along the line you've just stitched.
Tada! All raw edges enclosed!
OK, you'll need to maybe grade and understitch, then top stitch, but its a very RTW finish done correctly.
Posted on: 2/2/17 4:58 PM ET
In reply to franhaselden
Looking at those particular instructions, and not knowing how wide you were to cut the bias strip of fabric, here is my take:
Fold in half. Line up raw edges of bias tape to raw edges of neckline. (steps #2-3).
Sew along designated stitching line, then come back and trim the seam allowance to 1/4" or 6mm.
At this point I would press the seams flat, then after it cools a bit, I would press it open "in the ditch". Or depending on the fabric, I would press it open with the seam allowances toward the body of the garment (bodice). My guess is the finished facing will be approx. 1 cm (or less) wide?
Then fold the bias facing back toward the inside of the garment so it is invisible from the public view. Because you folded it in half, the edge is pre-finished (in a manner) and all you have to do is sew it down. Most likely, top-stitching for a lightweight fabric, and hand-stitching for a heavier fabric if you want it invisible.
HTH
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Fold in half. Line up raw edges of bias tape to raw edges of neckline. (steps #2-3).
Sew along designated stitching line, then come back and trim the seam allowance to 1/4" or 6mm.
At this point I would press the seams flat, then after it cools a bit, I would press it open "in the ditch". Or depending on the fabric, I would press it open with the seam allowances toward the body of the garment (bodice). My guess is the finished facing will be approx. 1 cm (or less) wide?
Then fold the bias facing back toward the inside of the garment so it is invisible from the public view. Because you folded it in half, the edge is pre-finished (in a manner) and all you have to do is sew it down. Most likely, top-stitching for a lightweight fabric, and hand-stitching for a heavier fabric if you want it invisible.
HTH
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iPad's auto-correct is my enema.
Posted on: 2/2/17 5:00 PM ET
Your photo was posted while I was typing.
It looks good! A famous couture sewist, Roberta Carr, has instructions in her book on this very technique, as it is normally found in high end & designer garments. I once made a Burda sleeveless blouse, fifteen years ago, and the sleeves were faced this same way.
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It looks good! A famous couture sewist, Roberta Carr, has instructions in her book on this very technique, as it is normally found in high end & designer garments. I once made a Burda sleeveless blouse, fifteen years ago, and the sleeves were faced this same way.
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iPad's auto-correct is my enema.
Posted on: 2/2/17 5:01 PM ET
I think my problem is that folding under and stitching I'm working with about 4mm of fabric. It says to cut seam allowance to 6mm, once turned in losing a bit more so it's barely covering the raw edge.
There must be another way that doesn't involve icky gross bias strips. I guess a bodice lining.
Kayl, is bias tape I have made from the fashion fabric.
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There must be another way that doesn't involve icky gross bias strips. I guess a bodice lining.
Kayl, is bias tape I have made from the fashion fabric.
------
www.plusgirlsews.com
Posted on: 2/2/17 5:13 PM ET
OK, I think I've got it.
My main problem was using such a tiny amount to turn. Just 7mm. Perhaps I am not very nimble fingered.
I cut off what I had done (lost 1.5cm of the neckline but oh well, can't be helped) and redid if with just 1cm seam allowance. Means that I have enough to turn and cover the raw edge. Still not a fan!
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My main problem was using such a tiny amount to turn. Just 7mm. Perhaps I am not very nimble fingered.
I cut off what I had done (lost 1.5cm of the neckline but oh well, can't be helped) and redid if with just 1cm seam allowance. Means that I have enough to turn and cover the raw edge. Still not a fan!
------
www.plusgirlsews.com
Posted on: 2/2/17 5:26 PM ET
In reply to franhaselden
How wide is the bias strip you're starting with?
Personally, anytime I see stuff about sewing with 5/8"/15mm seam allowance and then trimming to 1/4"/6 mm seam allowance, I figure I'm ahead of the game by reducing the seam allowance to 1/4"/6 mm to start with.
Here's how I'd probably have done it...
Trim seam allowance on the neckline edge on the bias to 1/4"/6mm and stabilize with starch, school glue, stay tape or a narrow bit of fusible interfacing.
Cut bias strip to about 1 1/8" wide (28mm), Fold in half, wrong sides together, and press. Strip is now 14 mm wide.
Match the raw edges of the bias tape to the raw edge of the neckline, right sides together, and stitch at 1/4"/6 mm, matching notches. Roll the bias to the inside of the neckline, favoring the edge slightly. Strip minus the seam allowance is now 8 mm wide, and should extend beyond the raw edges of the 6 mm seam allowance; if it doesn't, I'd slightly trim the raw edges to make sure it can cover.
Edgestitch and topstitch or invisibly stitch.
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The problem with doing it my way is that 1/4" seam allowance on the bias is easy to stretch, which is why I'd start out with stabilizing it. I would also want to ever so slightly stretch (less than 5 mm from looking at the instructions, probably more like 3-4mm) the bias as I was applying it to the bodice so the bias would not want to kick out the edge of the neckline in wear.
Personally, anytime I see stuff about sewing with 5/8"/15mm seam allowance and then trimming to 1/4"/6 mm seam allowance, I figure I'm ahead of the game by reducing the seam allowance to 1/4"/6 mm to start with.
Here's how I'd probably have done it...
Trim seam allowance on the neckline edge on the bias to 1/4"/6mm and stabilize with starch, school glue, stay tape or a narrow bit of fusible interfacing.
Cut bias strip to about 1 1/8" wide (28mm), Fold in half, wrong sides together, and press. Strip is now 14 mm wide.
Match the raw edges of the bias tape to the raw edge of the neckline, right sides together, and stitch at 1/4"/6 mm, matching notches. Roll the bias to the inside of the neckline, favoring the edge slightly. Strip minus the seam allowance is now 8 mm wide, and should extend beyond the raw edges of the 6 mm seam allowance; if it doesn't, I'd slightly trim the raw edges to make sure it can cover.
Edgestitch and topstitch or invisibly stitch.
-----------------------
The problem with doing it my way is that 1/4" seam allowance on the bias is easy to stretch, which is why I'd start out with stabilizing it. I would also want to ever so slightly stretch (less than 5 mm from looking at the instructions, probably more like 3-4mm) the bias as I was applying it to the bodice so the bias would not want to kick out the edge of the neckline in wear.
Posted on: 2/2/17 5:46 PM ET
In reply to franhaselden
This is a clear video tutorial for a no bulk method
Tutorial
for dressmaking I prefer this single layer binding finish.
It's also ideal for doing a reverse bias facing as a contrast detail - an example here
The method mentioned in other posts, where you cut a much wider depth of binding, fold in half and stitch both raw edges of the binding to the main fabric and then fold along the seam line and top stitch is what I call a quilters method.
It's worth auditioning both methods in your test stitch stage before assembly to see which finish you prefer as it depends on the thickness of the fabrics used.
Back on edit:
There is a 3rd method which is really a bound edge. The tape is visible from the public side and the inside.
You cut away the seam allowance on the main fabric. The binding is folded in half and the main fabric edge is placed inside the binding and snugged up into the fold of the binding. It can be stitched in 1 pass or 2.
-- Edited on 2/2/17 at 5:57 PM --
Tutorial
for dressmaking I prefer this single layer binding finish.
It's also ideal for doing a reverse bias facing as a contrast detail - an example here
The method mentioned in other posts, where you cut a much wider depth of binding, fold in half and stitch both raw edges of the binding to the main fabric and then fold along the seam line and top stitch is what I call a quilters method.
It's worth auditioning both methods in your test stitch stage before assembly to see which finish you prefer as it depends on the thickness of the fabrics used.
Back on edit:
There is a 3rd method which is really a bound edge. The tape is visible from the public side and the inside.
You cut away the seam allowance on the main fabric. The binding is folded in half and the main fabric edge is placed inside the binding and snugged up into the fold of the binding. It can be stitched in 1 pass or 2.
-- Edited on 2/2/17 at 5:57 PM --
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