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Member since 12/4/16
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Posted on: 6/16/17 9:55 PM ET
#I have extra wide bias tape of which I want to make straps to a dress. So I fold the strap and sew on it, simply.
Now my old kenmore is working fine on any medium cotton fabric. I sewed the dress of cotton without issues and now at straps with bias tape, I am stuck.
Thread is getting stuck in bottom ( not bunching exactly but lot of thread), needle stops, fabric stucks. I have to stop the machine and use scissors, then rip seams also and fabric( bias tape) getting big holes.

#Similar issue with a light linen fabric. Machine worked fine on fabric seams but when it came to sewing armholes or necklines, attaching bias binding with linen, same issues so I could not make any progress in linen apparel too.
Its works fine outside those two places. I tried playing with tensions assuming its lightweight issue but no use.
Do I need to change needle and try? I do not remember which number I have exactly but I think its normal for light to medium weight fabric # 11.
Also my needle is old but its working fine for other fabrics.
I do not know if I need to change to binding foot? I am a new bie and only experience to simple dresses and gets nervous with machine problems. I never got my machine serviced or oiled yet but cleaned myself. Its old machine and I have it for couple months.
  
Member since 11/9/15
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Posted on: 6/16/17 11:59 PM ET
On bias tape, especially double fold, I never start the needle on the part with the most number of folds, I start at least a half inch before that, so that I can get the back stitch over before trying to sew on such a thick section. Sometimes if the fabric wont advance, I'll needle up down, then lift the foot and move the fabric just a LITTLE to advance it, then needle up down again, then start sewing. Only have to do that once or twice then the feed dogs get enough grip on the fabric to move it.

If your getting an ugly birdsnest on the bobbin side, it's normal to think that's the bobbin, but it's actually usually the upper thread. I've learned when that happens, if you rethread the upper thread that usually fixes it.

Unless your sewing with leather, silk, or an embroidery machine, needle likely isn't the issue in my experience. I use common serger needles in my singer sewing machine, on cotton, knit, minky, all sews the same with the same needle I'm using in my older machine.
-- Edited on 6/17/17 at 0:01 AM --
  
Member since 12/13/08
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Posted on: 6/17/17 0:09 AM ET
I think you'll be pleasantly surprised if you change your needle. When I learned the advice to change the needle with each new project, the quality of my sewing really improved. Needles wear out! And they wear out faster on a machine (but hand needles wear out, too). They get dull, bent, burrs, etc. Swap that baby out! :)

Also, have you tried holding onto both thread tails as you start stitching? This will keep the needle thread from being yanked into the bobbin case and tangling up. Some machines don't need this, most of the time, but it's still a good habit to get into. My first machine, a mechanical Brother, needed it *every single time,* or I'd get a huge mess.

You might also change your stitch length--make it longer--to get over the first hump; you might find that the stitches aren't actually any longer, but the machine feeds better.

Rule of thumb with machine issues: Rethread, then change the needle, swap out the bobbin, clean out the bobbin case for loose threads, etc. It's always possible that one moving part doesn't quite fall into place exactly, and will throw the whole system off. And if you have a *nice* machine, it might still work... sort of... instead of throwing a fit and refusing to sew at all. :)
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Posted on: 6/17/17 0:43 AM ET
In reply to misha79
You might try putting a piece of tear away stabilizer under your project. A piece that is approximately 2" square should be plenty. Begin sewing in the middle of the square, position your bias straps about of 1/4" from where you begin your sewing. Remember, the feed dogs on your machine like to be completely covered with fabric, they want something to grab onto. If you want to back stitch at the end of your straps, insert another piece of stabilizer so you get a clean finish. Once you are done, simply tear the stabilizer away (gently).
  
Member since 12/7/07
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Posted on: 6/17/17 12:50 PM ET
Place a piece of paper under the fabric until you have sewn a few inches. Sewing repair man told me this. Adding roll paper works fine. I always use this when sewing narrow widths or very soft and slippery fabric. Solves all your problems as the fabric does not go down into the feed dogs.
  
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Posted on: 6/17/17 3:09 PM ET
Like Morgance, I won't start at the end. Start further into it and then come back and get the edge by going in the opposite direction.
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Baby Lock Celebrate | Brother 2340CV
My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip

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Member since 5/28/11
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Posted on: 6/17/17 3:29 PM ET
In reply to misha79
Are you using the package of bias tape? That stuff is thick. My guess is that it is the needle. I would use a Schmetz sharp in a 14. If you don't have that try a denim needle or at least go up to a 14 or 16.Take it a part and clean it good then rethread it. I think the needle is way too small for the layers you are sewing. Old needles often get dull and maybe even slightly bent. I have a vintage Kenmore (1980 model) and I know it would sew that without an issue. There is always the chance that it needs servicing too.
  
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Posted on: 6/17/17 8:32 PM ET
I echo that you should be changing your needle with every project. Besides, different fabrics, different applications, all require different needles.

No one has mentioned this but frankly, bias strips are not good for straps holding up a garment. Bias stretches and I think you will regret not having gone with something cut on the straight of grain. the weight of the garment will make your straps and you unhappy pretty quickly.
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Posted on: 6/17/17 10:28 PM ET
If you use bias tape for straps, make sure you iron it while stretching it (pull hard) before stitching. That will remove all the stretch from your straps. They will be more narrow and like fast and easy spaghetti straps.
Instead of using paper at the beginning, you could use extra length of tape and start stitching an inch or so away from the end, then just cut off the unstitched inch.

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Rheta
  
Member since 10/19/13
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Posted on: 6/18/17 6:29 AM ET
In reply to misha79
Years ago, old needles were virtually never a problem and as I've returned to sewing, reading about people changing a needle with each project seemed silly and wasteful to me. After using materials and notions available today, I'm using new needles quitr often.

Change your needle any time these weird issues come up. My Kenmore is 30 years old. I'm changing needles every 2 to 3 garments.

Pre-packaged hem tapes and bias tapes are especially poor quality these days. Even ironing them can be a challenge. When I'm able to use these items from mine or my Mom's vintage stash they are a dream to sew. New hem tapes are especially difficult to sew by hand. Using the same needle, vintage tape is a breeze.
  
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