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Member since 1/27/15
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Posted on: 7/3/17 8:16 PM ET
I am working on a sleeveless button-up blouse that has no seam allowance at the armscye. (This is a pattern where you had to add the seam allowances yourself and the instructions clearly stated no seam allowance at the arms.)

The pattern also does not call for an armscye facing but rather instructs you to finish the raw edge with a close zig-zag stitch. Well, against my better judgment I did that, and it looks terrible - a real "C- in Home Ec" moment. And of course the fabric's all stretched out now because there was no place to do stay stitching if I wanted to.

So, I am thinking I would like to try this again, as the style and fit is great otherwise, but this time use a facing. For v2, do I need to add a seam allowance for the facing? Would 1 cm do it? Thanks.
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Member since 10/19/13
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Posted on: 7/3/17 8:23 PM ET
Yes, you'll need a seam allowance and 1 cm should do fine.

On the first version, you could try drawing up the armscye with a tiny hand worked running stitch neatly pressed into place and then attaching a bias binding.

I really do not care for the silly deconstructed look.
  
Member since 12/2/08
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Posted on: 7/4/17 1:42 AM ET
If you have enough fabric leftover, I would make a bias binding and use that. I'm seldom happy with the folding in and stitched look on armscyes. Good luck!
-- Edited on 7/4/17 at 1:43 AM --
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Member since 3/24/04
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Posted on: 7/4/17 1:52 AM ET
In reply to shoes15
1/4" is fine for an unstressed seam like an armhole facing. I would be inclined to copy the pattern armscye as is, no seam allowance, then take the current mess, crimp it and ease it to the facing as a salvage.

I prefer 3/8" seam allowance, though, and that is probably what I would have added.
  
Member since 6/24/07
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Posted on: 7/4/17 2:04 AM ET
A narrow seam allowance is easier to manage with a facing. If the armhole seam is very stretched and messed up binding could be an option or you can cut a facing shape twice and outline the armhole with this as a design feature (this works well with some styles).
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Member since 1/27/15
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Posted on: 7/4/17 10:57 AM ET
Thanks for your recommendations. I thought about going the bias binding route, but that's giving me a more casual look than I want. Also, the fabric's very stretched-out on one side (I wasn't dumb enough to do the zigzag on both sides, once was enough to confirm my thinking that this wasn't going to work) so things are pretty uneven and messy.

It was a wearable muslin, so no biggie. I may try again with some remnants of lawn.
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