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Looking at the entire garment... (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 8/6/17 2:52 PM ET
I am mostly a self-taught sewer, so I have a lot of gaps in my sewing knowledge. My question is in regards to the "big picture". Where do you topstitch on an entire garment? So, let’s say I want to topstitch a coat.
Do I topstitch toward the inside of the seams for the front and also the inside of the seams on the back? What about the side seam?
Or do I start in the back and topstitch to the outside of the seam and as I come to the front, stitch to the inside of the seam?
If I have a center back seam where do I topstitch?
Does this make sense?
Thank you for your help
Do I topstitch toward the inside of the seams for the front and also the inside of the seams on the back? What about the side seam?
Or do I start in the back and topstitch to the outside of the seam and as I come to the front, stitch to the inside of the seam?
If I have a center back seam where do I topstitch?
Does this make sense?
Thank you for your help
Posted on: 8/6/17 2:59 PM ET
When I'm not sure how to top-stitch I do some snoop shopping online. If you go to a store site, like Nordstrom for instance, you can often zoom in pretty close on a photo to see how it was done.
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My Sewing Blog - http://needlesnails.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 8/6/17 5:35 PM ET
In reply to Dee Hill
Topstitching is designer's choice, and you're the designer. 
Topstitching is typically done 1/4" away from an edge. So on a coat, I'd expect topstitching at least from the hem up the front, around the collar, and back down the other side of the opening, and around the hem and sleeves. Also pocket edges, straps, belts, etc.
Whether or not the other seams are topstitched is a matter of choice. Large amounts of topstitching were common in the 1970s, then went out of style, and now seem to be coming back in. Back in the 70s, I probably would have topstitched construction seams on either side of the actual seamline. Now, I'd be less likely to topstitch those seams unless they were in a fabric that really didn't want to hold a press.

Topstitching is typically done 1/4" away from an edge. So on a coat, I'd expect topstitching at least from the hem up the front, around the collar, and back down the other side of the opening, and around the hem and sleeves. Also pocket edges, straps, belts, etc.
Whether or not the other seams are topstitched is a matter of choice. Large amounts of topstitching were common in the 1970s, then went out of style, and now seem to be coming back in. Back in the 70s, I probably would have topstitched construction seams on either side of the actual seamline. Now, I'd be less likely to topstitch those seams unless they were in a fabric that really didn't want to hold a press.
Posted on: 8/6/17 5:55 PM ET
In reply to Dee Hill
Do you mean topstitch or understitch? I ask that because you say "inside of the seams"? Topstitch is a decorative touch that also holds all the layers nicely together. Kayl explained that in her explanation of where to topstitch ie down the front seams and around the collar. As someone else suggested, look at an RTW coat to get an idea. If you are talking about "understitch" that is only through the facing and the seam close to the neckline (not through all the layers about 1/8" out from the seam and done after clipping the neckline). It helps the facing behave. You would only need to understitch around the neckline not down the front facing as that would be topstitched. Does that make sense?
Posted on: 8/6/17 6:12 PM ET
Thank y'all. I am referring to a decorative topstitching. I will check out the local thrift store and see how some RTW coats are topstitched.
Posted on: 8/6/17 9:05 PM ET
In reply to Dee Hill
Casual coats have more Top stitching than a dressier coat. Also the fabric makes a difference - wool will have less topstitching than a poplin or gabardine trench coat. It really is a matter of taste, but the top stitching needs to look perfect.
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Absolutely loving my Janome 500e embroidery machine, very creative. Problem with all my stash for clothing!
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Absolutely loving my Janome 500e embroidery machine, very creative. Problem with all my stash for clothing!
Posted on: 8/7/17 10:12 AM ET
I've only made one heavy wool overcoat with topstitching and the top stitching was 1/2" in, all aounnd the collar and front edge.
On lighter jackets and shirts, I either top stitch aat1/16" or 1/8" , or double stitch at 1/16" and then 1/4" from that.
When I did the 1/2" topstitching, I hand basted all edges in place first. I've seen many home sewn garments with 1/4" top stitching that was puckery because the fabric moved during the process. Its one of those dead giveaway signs of a home sewn garment.
I'm sure there are some people that can pull it off without the hand basting, but I prefer preventing the possibility. On some nicer jackets I have hand pasted prior to doing the narrower top stitching also. I like a crisp edge.
On lighter jackets and shirts, I either top stitch aat1/16" or 1/8" , or double stitch at 1/16" and then 1/4" from that.
When I did the 1/2" topstitching, I hand basted all edges in place first. I've seen many home sewn garments with 1/4" top stitching that was puckery because the fabric moved during the process. Its one of those dead giveaway signs of a home sewn garment.
I'm sure there are some people that can pull it off without the hand basting, but I prefer preventing the possibility. On some nicer jackets I have hand pasted prior to doing the narrower top stitching also. I like a crisp edge.
Posted on: 8/7/17 11:40 AM ET
In reply to SPOOKIETOO
Thank you, for some reason I never thought to hand baste. It makes some past projects make more sense now. I wonder if something like Washaway Wonder Tape would also work with certain fabrics.
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Little strokes fell great oaks. On the other hand, go big or go home!
Projects completed in 2024: 3 pairs gloves. Four pairs of jeans. Five custom tarps. A dozen linen hankies. A wool wrap for a friend. Four linen bath towels and 24 washcloths. Two bed pillows.
38.5 yards of fabric out.
Projects completed in 2024: 3 pairs gloves. Four pairs of jeans. Five custom tarps. A dozen linen hankies. A wool wrap for a friend. Four linen bath towels and 24 washcloths. Two bed pillows.
38.5 yards of fabric out.
Posted on: 8/7/17 12:33 PM ET
I second the advice to check upscale RTW to learn conventions.
But topstitching is both ornamental and functional, it holds the seam allowances in position and strengthes the seam slightly becasue being fixed in position means less stress. The one thing to keep in mind is not everything can be topstitched without acrobatics. So final seams like underarm or side seams are often pressed open and not topstitched except on rugged garments. But edges (including turned pieces like pocket flaps) and anything that is accessible before the garment is assembled is usually topstitched. Generally horizontal seams like yokes are topstitched upward, horizontal seams are pressed toward the back. Armhole seams aren't always topstitched, but when they are, stitch toward the body. Centerback seam direction reflects the front closure--e.g. a right-over-left closure on the front would have a left-over-right vent and topstitching to the left (even if there is no vent).
Anyway, that's what I do, always easiest to have an example on hand.
But topstitching is both ornamental and functional, it holds the seam allowances in position and strengthes the seam slightly becasue being fixed in position means less stress. The one thing to keep in mind is not everything can be topstitched without acrobatics. So final seams like underarm or side seams are often pressed open and not topstitched except on rugged garments. But edges (including turned pieces like pocket flaps) and anything that is accessible before the garment is assembled is usually topstitched. Generally horizontal seams like yokes are topstitched upward, horizontal seams are pressed toward the back. Armhole seams aren't always topstitched, but when they are, stitch toward the body. Centerback seam direction reflects the front closure--e.g. a right-over-left closure on the front would have a left-over-right vent and topstitching to the left (even if there is no vent).
Anyway, that's what I do, always easiest to have an example on hand.
Posted on: 8/7/17 8:44 PM ET
In reply to blueviola
There are definitely a few sewing tasks that iron-on notions can help. But I can't think of a top stitch I couldn't baste quicker.
First off, with me, there's always the "where did I put that stuff the last time I used it?" factor.
Plus, on a jacket, I handbaste an edge before a firm press - even when I'm not top stitching. To be honest, I can't see well at ironing distance - a little too far for my readers. Basting is the only way I can be certain to get that tiny 1/32" roll so that a facing doesn't show. This was never an issue back when my vision was better than 20/20. Now I struggle to not burn parts of my body. Miopia sux.
First off, with me, there's always the "where did I put that stuff the last time I used it?" factor.

Plus, on a jacket, I handbaste an edge before a firm press - even when I'm not top stitching. To be honest, I can't see well at ironing distance - a little too far for my readers. Basting is the only way I can be certain to get that tiny 1/32" roll so that a facing doesn't show. This was never an issue back when my vision was better than 20/20. Now I struggle to not burn parts of my body. Miopia sux.
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