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Member since 7/26/17
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Posted on: 8/8/17 0:38 AM ET
I have some confusion concerning placement of buttonholes.

When deciding button hole placement on a garment, is the extra 3mm included in button length (length that gets slit) or is it the 3mm for bartack? Why is there only one 3mm bartack measurement included when there are 2 bar tacks at either end of the buttonhole?

When placing buttons on extension (Centre front), is the 3mm beyond extension the same as the 3mm bartack

  
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Posted on: 8/8/17 1:50 AM ET
I have been sewing over fifty years and really have never given this a thought. When I make B and BHs, I make samples till I get the right fit. Then I put them on the garment. Sorry couldn't answer your question but you may just want to try some samples to get it down right before you make them. You decide the fit and spacing.
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Posted on: 8/8/17 9:24 AM ET
I agree with solosmocker, because any such formula can't account for diffferent buttons; very domed, textured or thick buttons sometimes need extra space, covered buttons don't always slip through as easily. I usually go with making the hole just a teeny bit bigger than the button for the sample and work from there - so the hole is obviously the part between the end tacks. I wouldn't always pick 3mm, a very dainty button may not need any extra space.
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Posted on: 8/8/17 9:38 AM ET
In reply to solosmocker
What I love about your answer is that it works for so many sewing related issues.

For example, I'm finally learning that even if I'm sewing a TNT pattern, the fabric will probably be different each time. Therefore, I need to cut extra on the sides, baste it together and try it on to see what the fabric is going to do.

I wish I learned this at the start.
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Posted on: 8/8/17 9:44 AM ET
In reply to weather
I agree with solosmocker and petro, there's no hard and fast rule.

Usually, on a horizontal buttonhole, the extension past centre front is to accommodate the shank of the button. The bar tack would normally extend beyond that.

I don't bother marking buttonholes until I have bought the buttons and have made a sample buttonhole that I'm happy with. Then I mark them according to the sample.
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Posted on: 8/8/17 10:10 AM ET
In reply to solosmocker
I totally agree. I'd never make a buttonhole on my garment without first having made a sample. There are just too many variables. All the time spend figuring out these calculations would be better spent just making a sample and seeing if it fits!
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Posted on: 8/8/17 10:59 PM ET
In reply to solosmocker
As solosmocker says, it's all about making samples. This holds true for buttonholes, of course, but for pretty much everything. You want to try pre-try your needles, your thread, your stitch width, and the number of stitches per inch.

Each trial takes only minutes, but can save you hours of labor.
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Posted on: 8/9/17 0:22 AM ET
In reply to marymary86
Even dye can affect the fit of a garment. When I tell clients this, they look at me like I have three heads. I have 3 pair of jeans in my closet that are the same size and style, but different colors. Each one fits me differently. It may not be noticeable to others, but they feel different when I wear them.
  
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Posted on: 8/9/17 1:04 AM ET
In reply to Alania
Quote:
Even dye can affect the fit of a garment. When I tell clients this, they look at me like I have three heads. I have 3 pair of jeans in my closet that are the same size and style, but different colors. Each one fits me differently. It may not be noticeable to others, but they feel different when I wear them.


And all this time I thought it was "just in my head"!

To the OP: I agree with others to always make samples and make sure the button slides through to your satisfaction. I have a sliding buttonhole foot where you place the button on the end of the foot and it automatically calculates the buttonhole size. It's a good starting place. If the button is thick, domed or oddly shaped, you can adjust from there. Not sure if you have such a foot, but usually they are available for most machines.

About placement, I don't use the pattern guide at all. When the garment is done, for a bodice I mark the first button at the bust to make sure it won't gape there. Then I position the others up and down from there, measuring the distance to get them even. I measure from button center to button center. For a waist button I put it where it's comfortable.

-- Edited on 8/9/17 at 1:45 PM --
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Posted on: 8/9/17 8:08 AM ET
I thought the "rule" in womenswear was the diameter of the button and 1/8".The center of the button is on the center front. It's a good place to start on a sample.
  
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