Sponsors
Sponsors
thick seams on jeans (Moderated by Sharon1952, EleanorSews)
Posted on: 10/16/17 9:13 PM ET
Hi, my Bernina 770 keeps jamming when I try to topstitch some jeans pockets. The seams are only moderately thick so I'm surprised this is a problem. I've tried using a support under the back of the foot, a 5.5 mm stitch plate, regular thread in the bobbin, a 4 mm stitch length and sewing slowing but the machines still keeps jamming. The topstitching is fine when sewing through just two layers of fabric. Does anyone have a suggestion how I might solve this problem? Is it bad for these types of machines to use the hand wheel to walk the foot over the thicker seams? I had the impression from my introductory class on the 770 that I really shouldn't be using the hand wheel much but maybe I misunderstood.
Posted on: 10/16/17 10:20 PM ET
In reply to Deborah Anne
You shouldn’t have to use the hand wheel. Here are some thoughts: Try using the jeans foot #8D with the dual feed engaged, along a straight stitch plate. The #8/8D is for straight stitching on heavy fabric, like jeans. Also, make sure you’re using a sharp (new) needle, and hold the top thread with your finger when starting to stitch so it doesn’t get pulled under into the bobbin thread. Then try reducing the presser foot pressure. Take some scraps and test stitch with a few different pressure adjustments. Don’t be afraid to adjust it significantly. For stretchy fabrics, I find that dropping the pressure from the normal 50 to 20-25 works well. I’m not assuming your jeans fabric is stretchy, just trying to say that you can really adjust the pressure more than a couple of points in either direction.
IIRC, there are a couple of helpful videos online for using the #8/8D that you might want to watch. Just google something like “sewing jeans with Bernina foot #8D”.
Don’t worry, the 770 is a strong machine and should do very well top stitching jeans fabric. If these things don’t help you, stop by your dealer and ask for some help. They’re sure to have a 9mm 7 Series machine for you to use for a quick tutorial.
IIRC, there are a couple of helpful videos online for using the #8/8D that you might want to watch. Just google something like “sewing jeans with Bernina foot #8D”.
Don’t worry, the 770 is a strong machine and should do very well top stitching jeans fabric. If these things don’t help you, stop by your dealer and ask for some help. They’re sure to have a 9mm 7 Series machine for you to use for a quick tutorial.
Posted on: 10/16/17 10:21 PM ET
I am pretty sure when I sewed a pair of jeans, the thicker parts I hammered with a rubber mallet before sewing. I would do it on the wrong side of the fabric. That should help your Bernina get through for top stitching.
Posted on: 10/16/17 10:42 PM ET
In reply to Deborah Anne
I was making repairs to DH's Carhart's... you know that heavy yellow canvas material in men's work wear? I experienced a similar issue and thought that I needed an 20/120 Jeans needle instead of the 18 I was sewing with. As it turned out, going down to a 16 needle had better piercing power and the thread was able to be drawn through the fabric without creating issues with tension. I had YLI Jeans thread top and Mettler Metrosene in the bobbin. 
-- Edited on 10/16/17 at 10:43 PM --
------

-- Edited on 10/16/17 at 10:43 PM --
------
Janome MC6700 Bernina Q16Plus Bernina 240 Juki MO735 Singer 201-2 Singer 221-1
Posted on: 10/16/17 10:57 PM ET
In reply to Deborah Anne
Your 770 shouldn't jam. I'd say it's the needle. Are you using a denim needle?
Also, perhaps the single stitch plate would be better if your fabric is getting jammed into the needle plate opening.
Are you using thicker thread, like 28 wt (jeans topstitching thread) in the machine? Maybe you need to use the same weight thread in bobbin too. Or lower the thread tension.
Reduce the presser foot pressure just a teensy bit.
I've sewn & topstitched jeans before. I don't use a 4mm stitch length though. I generally use 3.25.
-- Edited on 10/16/17 at 10:59 PM --
------
Also, perhaps the single stitch plate would be better if your fabric is getting jammed into the needle plate opening.
Are you using thicker thread, like 28 wt (jeans topstitching thread) in the machine? Maybe you need to use the same weight thread in bobbin too. Or lower the thread tension.
Reduce the presser foot pressure just a teensy bit.
I've sewn & topstitched jeans before. I don't use a 4mm stitch length though. I generally use 3.25.
-- Edited on 10/16/17 at 10:59 PM --
------
My Herd: Bernina 790 Plus Upgrade, Bernina 735, Babylock Triumph, Bernina Record 931. Sewing Makes My Crazy Life Normal.
Member #25631
Member #25631
Posted on: 10/16/17 11:13 PM ET
Did you try using sewing advisor built into the machine? Plus lower your foot pressure even further than it suggests. I hem jeans all the time on my 720 and I have no dual feed!
------
------
Bernina Gal
Posted on: 10/17/17 0:31 AM ET
In reply to Barbara3
Thanks for the reply. I will try changing the pressure, which I have not tried yet.
Posted on: 10/17/17 0:31 AM ET
In reply to clr56
Thanks, I will try hammering again and harder!
Posted on: 10/17/17 0:33 AM ET
In reply to traceymadeit
Thanks. I am using a denim needle, but will try using the topstitching thread in the bobbin too and lowering the tension and pressure.
Posted on: 10/17/17 0:35 AM ET
In reply to ilesliemy
I did use the sewing advisor but have not yet tried lower the pressure, which I will do tommorow. Thank you!
* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it.
Selected Reviews, Classes & Patterns
Fancy Frocks Fabrics
Fine Designer Fabrics
Fine Designer Fabrics






