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Posted on: 1/18/18 11:20 AM ET
I am making jeans using the Ottobre 5/2017 pattern. I traced a size 44 and did some measuring. If I used those traced pieces I would need to add 1.5" to the waistband and at 'belly' level. But I'd need to decrease 4.5" at the hips. So I think it would be easier if I choose a pattern that fits my waist and then alter the fit at the hips. I would need about the size 48 for the waist and size 42 for the hips. The problem is they have 2 different pattern size ranges 34-44 or 46- 52. The line drawing for the larger size range looks more curvy in the hips than the smaller size range, which is opposite what my shape is.

What pattern size would be best to start with - the size that fits my waist but will need dramatic narrowing of the hips? Or should I use the one I traced and adjust the waist up and the hips down? This is a problem I have with all patterns. And for reference these are classic 5 pocket jeans with back yoke.

Thanks for any help
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Posted on: 1/18/18 11:30 AM ET
Palmer/Pletsch says use the hip. It's in proportions or your legs. I have a similar quandary. If I fit my waist, the rest flaps in the wind!


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Posted on: 1/18/18 1:08 PM ET
The waist really only affects the waist/back. Starting with a bigger hip size means the pattern will be bigger all over, since it's been graded to be so. Which means, as Diane said, the legs will be bigger too. If that's what you want, use your waist measurement to pick pattern size. If not, use your hip measurement and grade up the waist (which is pretty easy if you do it around the pockets instead of through them).
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Posted on: 1/18/18 1:14 PM ET
In reply to Debbie Cook
So true! Increasing waist girth (that's such a funny word to me) is so, so easy and straightforward.
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Posted on: 1/18/18 1:48 PM ET
In reply to KSmithSews
I have started doing this alteration b/c I am now sewing for friends. I have been blending sizes--which often means pulling out both size packs; but it sounds like you have both size ranges available to work with, so that should be pretty simple, too.

I am SUCH a novice at pants, but I am very familiar with my pants-wearing-parts . This is a great discussion, since I get stuck on the "starting size" often, too! (I have a small frame but generous curves, and whatever I choose is either going to be too small or too large. It seems easier now to add than subtract--the extra fabric in a too-large mockup really confuses me, but "this part is too tight" is pretty straightforward to interpret! )
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Posted on: 1/18/18 2:02 PM ET
Also keep in mind these are supposed to be a mid-rise, the waistband is a bit bellow the natural waist. I know in my case, although my waist is a larger size than my hip, even just a bit bellow the actual waist, hip is a good enough approximation. I usually only need to alter the waist on a high waisted style. I guess my high hip is on the same size chart as my hip or close enough. Also you'll be dealing with a fabric with a little stretch except in the waistband which is stabilized. This is already designed into the pattern, but it still means you have more play at the hips than waist. If anything err on the side of tight at the hip (where it can stretch) and plan to alter the waist (where it can't).

So, I agree with the others, trace based on hip size. If you want you can still take that tracing to the other pattern and get a rough idea of the larger waist. Or just trace the larger waistband as a reality check. The waistband is nearly straight so altering at the side seams is all that is required.

I haven't tried this pattern, but have made other Ottobre jeans, good luck.
  
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Posted on: 1/18/18 2:14 PM ET
In reply to cathyd2
I don't know Ottobre's sizing... is it pretty consistent from one style to another? If it is, I'd probably suggest you try a plain darted pants pattern from them in hip size, see what you need to do to make a muslin fit you in the waist, and then decide on the jeans pattern size.

I'm assuming these are the classic 5 pocket jeans with a back yoke. That yoke contains the dart-equivalents, and you don't need as much dart uptake as they assume. It's a little more work, imo, to take that shaping back out of a yoke that has already been done than it is to make a new yoke from a darted pattern's back.
  
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Posted on: 1/18/18 4:50 PM ET
Starting with the proper hip size makes sense to get the right fit through the thighs.

This means starting with a size 42 and adding 6" to the waist. I'll make a straight 42 muslin tonight and see what I need to do with it.
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Posted on: 1/18/18 9:20 PM ET
So I made a muslin of the straight size 44 I had traced but without the waistbands attached, which I know isn't ideal but I learned enough without them to know this pattern won't work for me.
The hips fit was good. There was just a bit of extra fabric under the butt. The fit through the thighs was good but the side seams were curving a bit, which might be ok for jeans, I'm not sure about that or if they need to stay straight like they would with a trouser cut pant.
They actually fit ok across my belly and do meet at the center. But thats without the waistband. But they are too low for me.
The problem I have with mid or low rise jeans is that #1. I get major muffin too because I have extra fat below my waist and #2. Because my waist/belly is larger and my hips are narrow, a true rectangle figure, plus I have a fairly flat butt I have a problem with pants/jeans lower than true waist not staying up. I have to wear a belt and again I get major muffin top when the belt is tightened enough to hold my pants up.

I do have a collection of several jeans patterns so will look through them for a higher rise style.

Thanks for the advice everyone.
-- Edited on 1/18/18 at 9:21 PM --
-- Edited on 1/18/18 at 9:22 PM --
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2022 Sewing Goals:
- 50 Yard Dash goal - 50 metres
Progress - 6 metre sewn
- '22 in 2022'
Progress - 3 items sewn, 1 WIP
  
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Posted on: 1/18/18 9:40 PM ET
In reply to cathyd2
Cathy, try this on your muslin: Figure out how much you need to get the pants top up to your waist, and just zigzag extension fabric onto the top of the pants-- not even a real seam, just overlap and stitch through.

Baste In the side seams, and draw in your waistline and then see if you think you've got something useful.

The other thing that strikes me as you describe yourself is that you might find that a menswear draft fits better, though you are still likely to lengthen the rise to your natural waist.
  
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