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Moderated by EleanorSews
Posted on: 4/23/18 11:45 PM ET
I'm working on the Liesl & Co Recital Shirt right now, getting ready to cut the fabric after fine-tuning the mockup. The pattern actually includes both cut-on and separate button bands, but the view I'm working with (A) uses the cut-on version (folded back & stitched down). I seem to recall folks on PR mentioning they often do buttonholes early in the shirt construction, instead of waiting until the very last step. Knowing how fussy my machine can be with any sort of bulk or interruption in its buttonhole process, that idea is very appealing!
The pattern has shoulder princess seams, so I have one lovely long skinny flat piece that I could, theoretically, put the buttonholes in first...? I have read the instructions but do not specifically recall the suggested construction order--except that I believe the buttonholes go in last. Is there any reason I could not--or should not--just do them first? I like the idea of not wrecking the entire shirt (a very fine embroidered/eyelet cotton lawn that I can't see responding well to lots of unpicking) if something goes wrong!
Thanks!! (If you can't tell, this is my very first button-front garment. Ever. But in a long line of other-types-of-closure-garments!
Need grommets? Clasps? Hooks & eyes? I'm your girl.
)
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The pattern has shoulder princess seams, so I have one lovely long skinny flat piece that I could, theoretically, put the buttonholes in first...? I have read the instructions but do not specifically recall the suggested construction order--except that I believe the buttonholes go in last. Is there any reason I could not--or should not--just do them first? I like the idea of not wrecking the entire shirt (a very fine embroidered/eyelet cotton lawn that I can't see responding well to lots of unpicking) if something goes wrong!
Thanks!! (If you can't tell, this is my very first button-front garment. Ever. But in a long line of other-types-of-closure-garments!
Need grommets? Clasps? Hooks & eyes? I'm your girl.
)------
~Elizabeth in the prairie
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
Posted on: 4/24/18 0:19 AM ET
I do buttonholes last because I like to be sure one button sits right on the bustline and that no button is where the waistband of the skirt or pants will hit.
Posted on: 4/24/18 0:32 AM ET
In reply to stirwatersblue
I also do buttonholes last. I don't use the buttonhole guide but start with placing a buttonhole at my bust and then deciding how many more I need and where they will go.
If the shirt will be loose, you coulddo them first. I wouldn't, but YMMV.
Good luck and make sample buttonholes with all the thicknesses included.
If the shirt will be loose, you coulddo them first. I wouldn't, but YMMV.
Good luck and make sample buttonholes with all the thicknesses included.
Posted on: 4/24/18 0:35 AM ET
The only real benefit to doing the buttonholes last is being able to try on the garment. As Mamadams noted, the bust and waist (on you) will affect where the buttons & holes should be. You may decide you want more or fewer button closures with this fabric or this bra.
Posted on: 4/24/18 0:44 AM ET
You could tissue fit to determine button placement. Do you know some basics as to how to do this? You just need to tape (reinforce) some of the curves, clip them and then pin baste it together on the stitching lines, you can leave off collars and sleeves and such. You’ll get a basic idea. If it’s right, you have a TNT. If not, you will be able to determine optimal placement with your finished shirt and mark it on your pattern for the next one.
-- Edited on 4/24/18 at 5:54 AM --
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-- Edited on 4/24/18 at 5:54 AM --
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Little strokes fell great oaks. On the other hand, go big or go home!
Projects completed in 2024: 3 pairs gloves. Four pairs of jeans. Five custom tarps. A dozen linen hankies. A wool wrap for a friend. Four linen bath towels and 24 washcloths. Two bed pillows.
38.5 yards of fabric out.
Projects completed in 2024: 3 pairs gloves. Four pairs of jeans. Five custom tarps. A dozen linen hankies. A wool wrap for a friend. Four linen bath towels and 24 washcloths. Two bed pillows.
38.5 yards of fabric out.
Posted on: 4/24/18 1:18 AM ET
In every class I've taken, the buttonholes were done last. Every time I've gone to Jonathan Embroidery in the NYC Garment District for buttonholes, a place used by professional sample makers, I have never seen anyone bring in anything other than a completed garment. It's hard for me to believe there's a benefit to doing it beforehand.
Although the buttonholes are marked on the pattern or with a separate template, they need to be re-marked with the garment on a person. Similarly, the hem allowance may be marked, but the hem still needs to be adjusted on the wearer.
Although the buttonholes are marked on the pattern or with a separate template, they need to be re-marked with the garment on a person. Similarly, the hem allowance may be marked, but the hem still needs to be adjusted on the wearer.
Posted on: 4/24/18 1:40 AM ET
In reply to stirwatersblue
Buttonholes last for me too....that's what I've been doing this afternoon!
If your machine is finicky or fabric is lightweight, float a piece of water soluble stabiliser on both top and bottom, then tear the stabiliser away 'after' cutting the buttonholes. Finally spray with water or rinse the shirt, even just the buttonhole area will be enough.
Placement as already suggested...bust button first, then divide the remainder evenly.
Depending on fabric/garment/etc I will often add a cord in the buttonhole. See here Corded Buttonhole
Make samples on the 'same' fabric and 'same' stabiliser before contemplating doing them on your shirt. Have fun and don't forget to breathe!!
If your machine is finicky or fabric is lightweight, float a piece of water soluble stabiliser on both top and bottom, then tear the stabiliser away 'after' cutting the buttonholes. Finally spray with water or rinse the shirt, even just the buttonhole area will be enough.
Placement as already suggested...bust button first, then divide the remainder evenly.
Depending on fabric/garment/etc I will often add a cord in the buttonhole. See here Corded Buttonhole
Make samples on the 'same' fabric and 'same' stabiliser before contemplating doing them on your shirt. Have fun and don't forget to breathe!!
Posted on: 4/24/18 2:48 AM ET
In reply to stirwatersblue
I do them close to the end, before hems, mostly. You need the collar stand on first, and that is difficult to do before joining the shoulders.
Stabilize, stabilize, stabilize, and a new needle just before the buttonholes.
And if you do have a buttonhole disaster, we will walk you through rescuing it with a French fly or a new band strip appliqued on top of the disaster.
Stabilize, stabilize, stabilize, and a new needle just before the buttonholes.
And if you do have a buttonhole disaster, we will walk you through rescuing it with a French fly or a new band strip appliqued on top of the disaster.
Posted on: 4/24/18 7:46 AM ET
In reply to stirwatersblue
Use a stabiler. I likw Pellons woven interfacing. Trim all seams in the byttonhole especially that collar stand if are putting a buttonhole there. Can't wait to hear about your sewing adventure!
Posted on: 4/24/18 9:31 AM ET
Buttonholes last unless you are doing a lot of them relatively close such that you couldn't have the gap at the bust problem.
Generally, early on I try a buttonhole out on a scrap with the same interfacing/facing/lining, etc as I intend in the garment just to make sure that I am not creating a problem for myself later. (This is particularly important if you use interesting oddly shaped buttons. You can check that they really will fit through the hole.)
Generally, early on I try a buttonhole out on a scrap with the same interfacing/facing/lining, etc as I intend in the garment just to make sure that I am not creating a problem for myself later. (This is particularly important if you use interesting oddly shaped buttons. You can check that they really will fit through the hole.)
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