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Posted on: 5/13/18 1:14 PM ET
Trying my first pair of pants. Have you tried to use a bendable ruler to get the right shape for the crotch? Does this work, if so what should I be watching out for?
Thank you
Thank you
Posted on: 5/13/18 1:59 PM ET
I did use a flexible ruler, and it was for me the only way to get that particular shape of crotch curve right that can be so hard to fit: Between the crotch point (intersection) and where the butt ends (where my curve is quite differently shaped than pattern makers foresee it).
You don't need a special flexible ruler, just one that holds its shape well enough to not get distorted when you step out of it.
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You don't need a special flexible ruler, just one that holds its shape well enough to not get distorted when you step out of it.
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For 2019 committed to:
- Continue using what I have (fabric, notions, patterns, books, mags, tips & tricks etc.).
- Strive to re-use 52 items from my upcycle cupboard.
- Continue purchasing fabric and patterns mindfully.
- Continue tracking my fabric stash.
- Resume tracking my pattern stash.
- Continue with RTW fast. Exceptions: bras, socks, panty hoses, shoes. Plus anything that coincidentally crosses my way and is a truly mindful purchase.
- Prioritize replacing some plain wardrobe basics (pillars or backbones) that are close or past their lifespan over adding fun, more exciting garments that I, strictly speaking, do not need (nice-to-haves).
2018 Summary:
- Used successfully what I had and bought mindfully, i.e. fabrics.
- Got a very good grip on my stash (measured and catalogued almost all of it) but failed to sew 10% down (got 9.28% done).
- Did not meet goal to make 50 projects (new, finish or re-use UFOs, upcycle, mend, repair).
- Key take away for 2019: Set fewer number-specific goals. My sewing should be driven by needs and love, not by achieving numbers.
- Continue using what I have (fabric, notions, patterns, books, mags, tips & tricks etc.).
- Strive to re-use 52 items from my upcycle cupboard.
- Continue purchasing fabric and patterns mindfully.
- Continue tracking my fabric stash.
- Resume tracking my pattern stash.
- Continue with RTW fast. Exceptions: bras, socks, panty hoses, shoes. Plus anything that coincidentally crosses my way and is a truly mindful purchase.
- Prioritize replacing some plain wardrobe basics (pillars or backbones) that are close or past their lifespan over adding fun, more exciting garments that I, strictly speaking, do not need (nice-to-haves).
2018 Summary:
- Used successfully what I had and bought mindfully, i.e. fabrics.
- Got a very good grip on my stash (measured and catalogued almost all of it) but failed to sew 10% down (got 9.28% done).
- Did not meet goal to make 50 projects (new, finish or re-use UFOs, upcycle, mend, repair).
- Key take away for 2019: Set fewer number-specific goals. My sewing should be driven by needs and love, not by achieving numbers.
Posted on: 5/13/18 5:08 PM ET
In reply to alpenrose
I have done this- from the point where all seams meet up at the crotch to the waist in the back, then again to the waist in the front. It worked that one time I did it, but I haven't made a pair of pants since. However, I just took the first of 3 pant drafting sessions with Kenneth King 😊, and he said this isn’t necessary, but I can’t begin to explain the why or how of the formula he uses.
One thing I did know, and he reinforced this when explaining the draft- be sure you measure to your actual waist, not where you might normally wear your pants.
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One thing I did know, and he reinforced this when explaining the draft- be sure you measure to your actual waist, not where you might normally wear your pants.
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My decisions are based on my conscience, not my wallet.
Posted on: 5/13/18 5:19 PM ET
In reply to alpenrose
I use mine every time I change weight and recently used it to get the prefect fit on the pants crotch for a friend.
I highly recommend Lietchy’s Pattern Fitting and Alterations . This book has a section dedicated to how to use the bendable ruler to get the right crotch curve.
I find it is less intuitive than I expected and I always have to have the book in front of me to do it. I highly suggest some step by step instructions with explanations. The book has this but I am not sure about other resources.
I highly recommend Lietchy’s Pattern Fitting and Alterations . This book has a section dedicated to how to use the bendable ruler to get the right crotch curve.
I find it is less intuitive than I expected and I always have to have the book in front of me to do it. I highly suggest some step by step instructions with explanations. The book has this but I am not sure about other resources.
Posted on: 5/13/18 5:25 PM ET
In reply to alpenrose
I have done this and it worked pretty well. The first ruler I had was a little too short so I extended it with aluminum foil, but I eventually replaced that ruler with one that was longer.
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Kim
Posted on: 5/13/18 5:31 PM ET
For crotch shape alone, I recall someone here used flexible gear ties.
Shel
Shel
Posted on: 5/13/18 5:41 PM ET
Apparently you can use folded alu foil
https://5outof4.com/tin-foil-crotch-curve-method-pants-fitting/
https://5outof4.com/tin-foil-crotch-curve-method-pants-fitting/
Posted on: 5/13/18 11:02 PM ET
In reply to with love Heidi
I think that book also recommends using a strip of paper. The aluminum foil idea mentioned sounds good too.
I have a flexible ruler that I've used on necklines but it's rather stiff and hard to manipulate.
I have a flexible ruler that I've used on necklines but it's rather stiff and hard to manipulate.
Posted on: 5/14/18 0:24 AM ET
I watched Joy Bernhardt’s YouTube videos on using a flexible ruler. I got the ruler, measured myself, traced the curve on paper. My brain said no way, I cannot look like that. So I measured about 5 more times, lol. Made pants with the traced curve. Perfect fit. I always use the ruler now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iv7F111VHUQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EU-OKoV3PAs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iv7F111VHUQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EU-OKoV3PAs
Posted on: 5/14/18 0:25 AM ET
A simple, long enough, not too thin, not too strong wire works also great as a substitute for a flexible ruler when it's about tranfering a body's shape to paper but measures aren't that important.
Kenneth King's approach to fitting bodices (a series some years back in Threads Magazine) was sort of a game changer for me in the most positive way.
I'm not familiar with his pants fitting approach and a formula he uses but I would agree with him insofar as for many women, it's possible to achieve great fitting pants without using a flexible ruler. For these women the ruler method isn't necessary. Although I believe that it can speed up the fitting process for them too.
However, using a flexible ruler is in my humble experience a great way to get the fit right for women whose shape between the legs defy conventional wisdom of patternmakers and tailors, and I fail to see how a formula could reflect this uniqueness better than a flexible ruler: It's a matter of the individual anatomy which enjoys a wide distribution of shapes. Therefore, I prefer to deal with my realities rather than formulas.
-- Edited on 5/14/18 at 1:05 AM --
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Kenneth King's approach to fitting bodices (a series some years back in Threads Magazine) was sort of a game changer for me in the most positive way.
I'm not familiar with his pants fitting approach and a formula he uses but I would agree with him insofar as for many women, it's possible to achieve great fitting pants without using a flexible ruler. For these women the ruler method isn't necessary. Although I believe that it can speed up the fitting process for them too.
However, using a flexible ruler is in my humble experience a great way to get the fit right for women whose shape between the legs defy conventional wisdom of patternmakers and tailors, and I fail to see how a formula could reflect this uniqueness better than a flexible ruler: It's a matter of the individual anatomy which enjoys a wide distribution of shapes. Therefore, I prefer to deal with my realities rather than formulas.

-- Edited on 5/14/18 at 1:05 AM --
------
For 2019 committed to:
- Continue using what I have (fabric, notions, patterns, books, mags, tips & tricks etc.).
- Strive to re-use 52 items from my upcycle cupboard.
- Continue purchasing fabric and patterns mindfully.
- Continue tracking my fabric stash.
- Resume tracking my pattern stash.
- Continue with RTW fast. Exceptions: bras, socks, panty hoses, shoes. Plus anything that coincidentally crosses my way and is a truly mindful purchase.
- Prioritize replacing some plain wardrobe basics (pillars or backbones) that are close or past their lifespan over adding fun, more exciting garments that I, strictly speaking, do not need (nice-to-haves).
2018 Summary:
- Used successfully what I had and bought mindfully, i.e. fabrics.
- Got a very good grip on my stash (measured and catalogued almost all of it) but failed to sew 10% down (got 9.28% done).
- Did not meet goal to make 50 projects (new, finish or re-use UFOs, upcycle, mend, repair).
- Key take away for 2019: Set fewer number-specific goals. My sewing should be driven by needs and love, not by achieving numbers.
- Continue using what I have (fabric, notions, patterns, books, mags, tips & tricks etc.).
- Strive to re-use 52 items from my upcycle cupboard.
- Continue purchasing fabric and patterns mindfully.
- Continue tracking my fabric stash.
- Resume tracking my pattern stash.
- Continue with RTW fast. Exceptions: bras, socks, panty hoses, shoes. Plus anything that coincidentally crosses my way and is a truly mindful purchase.
- Prioritize replacing some plain wardrobe basics (pillars or backbones) that are close or past their lifespan over adding fun, more exciting garments that I, strictly speaking, do not need (nice-to-haves).
2018 Summary:
- Used successfully what I had and bought mindfully, i.e. fabrics.
- Got a very good grip on my stash (measured and catalogued almost all of it) but failed to sew 10% down (got 9.28% done).
- Did not meet goal to make 50 projects (new, finish or re-use UFOs, upcycle, mend, repair).
- Key take away for 2019: Set fewer number-specific goals. My sewing should be driven by needs and love, not by achieving numbers.
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