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Member since 3/29/13
Posts: 7
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Posted on: 6/3/18 8:21 PM ET
So, I'm practicing my flat patterning and I made this bodice. The front fits perfect but when I attempt to close the back it's too tight/won't close all the way. I made the bodice 3 times, I added seam allowance and my measurements are right so whats wrong???





  
Member since 3/24/04
Posts: 26392
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Posted on: 6/3/18 8:49 PM ET
In reply to YoungBeginner
How much ease did you add to bust, waist and hip, and how did you apportion it between front and back? Did you balance the pattern?

https://butterick.mccall.com/size-fit-charts/ease-chart
-- Edited on 6/3/18 at 11:10 PM --
  
Member since 5/11/11
Posts: 221
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Posted on: 6/4/18 3:05 AM ET
In reply to YoungBeginner
In addition to the Kayl's reply, to me it looks a little like your bodice from shoulder to waist is a bit long perhaps? If you pin up a little at the shoulders you might find by lifting the waist position the hips will close up as they should if measurements are accurate as you say.

Often in alterations people say it's too tight / loose and the problem magically dissolves when the body length is corrected.
  
Member since 3/29/13
Posts: 7
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Posted on: 6/4/18 11:46 AM ET
In reply to kayl
Thanks, I did what you said and added ease to my bust and hip and got it to close. I didn't think I needed to add ease as it is a close fitted bodice, but I was able to get it to closed and pinned in a zipper to check.
  
Member since 3/24/04
Posts: 26392
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Re: Bodice back wont close/too tight (posted on 6/4/18 11:56 AM ET)
There is a bare minimum of ease that must be included on even the most fitted garments, or you won't be able to breathe or move well -- or else you must compensate with stretch fabrics.

I agree that the back waist looks long on the mannequin. Does it also look long on you? Is this bodice balanced? The photo of the earlier version side seam suggests it may not be.
  
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