PatternReview.com online sewing community
Join our community of 579,235 sewists!
SIGNUP Membership is free and includes 1 free lesson
Login |
Join our community of 579,235 sewists!
Signup | Login
To participate in the PatternReview.com forums please Login or Join PatternReview
12 
Member since 8/21/18
Posts: 448
Send Message
2 Replies
thumbsup 3 likes
Posted on: 10/2/18 8:27 PM ET
Hi experts,

I wonder if someday I'll no longer be running to this forum multiple times for every garment Sorry if I'm tiring you out!

I'm trying to work on these pants:


Well, I cut out the pieces based on Burda's instructions to use my "seat" measurement and did a very quick basting - and even ignoring the crazy puckering from the stitch tension, I think an apt descriptor is "Beetlejuice hot pants":



So literally zero ease on these now (and no, this was not the look I was going for ). Will I need to buy a new pattern?

Also, how would you remove the really crooked landing strip to my crotch? Would I need to re-cut at least one of the pieces? (The photo above made it look less offensive than it does - perhaps the strip is overshadowed by the everything else that's wrong with the pants)


-- Edited on 10/2/18 at 8:28 PM --
  
Member since 11/7/16
Posts: 1279
Body Type:
Send Message
thumbsup 3 likes
Posted on: 10/2/18 8:41 PM ET
The simple answer is no you don't have to even if you have cut the pattern pieces out (I do it too, but others would hang me and insist on tracing - simple answer is that I HATE TRACING) nuff said.

The best thing to do from here is to 'slash and spread' the pattern. Simply this means cutting it and moving it apart to create more space, you could do this on the pattern itself or make a copy from baking paper, tracing paper, cheap plastic party tablecloths or newspaper to name just a few options. Then you can slice the pattern and spread it to increase where you need extra fabric and stick another piece of paper in its place.

This has some infohttp://isntthatsew.org/slash-method/ but I'm sure if you do more googling you will find some more ideas.

Incidentally for pants, these two resources are awesome. They're for ladies but the principles of adjustments will be the same.
Jeans fitting book
Pants fitting book
  
Member since 9/26/05
Posts: 6900
Body Type:
Send Message
1 Replies
thumbsup 3 likes
Posted on: 10/2/18 8:43 PM ET
Were you supposed to add seam allowance? In your new cutting, cut your front and back pieces separately using the cut piece turned over on the fabric so you can match both parts of the plaid, horz and vert. That will produce an even plaid joining at the crotch.

I would use the pattern again adding 1" on each side seam piece, and one inch on all the crotch seams. Make a muslin first, basting the seams and check for fit.
------


Absolutely loving my Janome 500e embroidery machine, very creative. Problem with all my stash for clothing!
  
Member since 7/16/07
Posts: 30016
Send Message
thumbsup 3 likes
Posted on: 10/2/18 8:54 PM ET
In reply to GretchenB
Quote:
Were you supposed to add seam allowance?

Not if it's a Burda envelope pattern sold in North America (or the UK, or Australia, etc.).
------
my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
If you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid. ~ Albert Einstein

People have a way of becoming what you encourage them to be, not what you nag them to be. ~ Scudder N. Parker
  
Member since 3/24/04
Posts: 26392
Send Message
thumbsup 2 likes
Posted on: 10/2/18 8:56 PM ET
Want to live dangerously? Match the inseams and outseams, creasing from hem to the waistband. That's your technical grainline. Cut the current pants right up the grainline. Splice in a strip of fabric along the grainline, same amount front and back. Try 'em on again. Better? Ignore the fact that the legs have gotten wider... we can fix that later. What we're after now is fit in the torso and crotch.
-- Edited on 10/2/18 at 9:02 PM --
  
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 10762
Body Type:
Send Message
thumbsup 5 likes
Posted on: 10/2/18 8:58 PM ET
I'm just jumping in to say I enjoy reading the threads you create. I learn a lot from the discussion they generate.

I wish I could help with some advice but I'm not that good!

Oh wait - I do know one thing. Burda seems to have a slimmer cut for their men's patterns. DH's favorite PJ pattern is by Burda and they are noticeably slimmer than American PJ's. There's an article in an older Threads magazine by Sanra Betzina that details the differences in the way they are drafted compared to American patterns.
-- Edited on 10/2/18 at 9:03 PM --
------
Mary


  
Member since 4/1/08
Posts: 16111
Send Message
Posted on: 10/2/18 9:03 PM ET
In reply to misterstitch

-- Edited on 10/2/18 at 9:19 PM --
------
Each fallen petal reveals a life pollinated by a colony
and nurtured by The Master Gardener.
  
Member since 4/1/08
Posts: 16111
Send Message
thumbsup 1 like
Posted on: 10/2/18 9:08 PM ET
In reply to misterstitch
Are you in a hurry?

A couple of recommendations if you want to pull back for some think time.

There are a group of threads that can be found by using the forum search function and searching for these two words entered as one word with no space between the words. Remember, no space.

pants thread

Granted, most of the photos and questions pertain to woman but the overall body shapes, leg shapes, bottom types.........they are all represented. There are multiple discussions contained in those threads that should help you understand how to approach your target.

You have accidentally helped yourself with your choice of fabric. Recommend that you insert strips of (any woven) fabric in the straightest part of each separate pant front and back - 4 strips of fabric. Add as if you had originally cut a larger pattern size to achieve the ease you want (remember you'll need to consider seam allowances when adding) and then include an extra, say 1/2 inch, more if you want extra to check ease for sitting, driving, bending over, stepping up steep curbs.

You would be turning your trousers into a muslin which will be fantastic to work with due to all of the horizontal and vertical lines. When you add the fabric strips be sure to keep your horizontal lines lined up.

Of course you can open the side seams to do this.

Track absolutely everything, what you add, what you subtract. Once you are happy with your muslin, alter the pattern or trace off a new pattern with the alterations. Or, purchase a new pattern to help determine a gauge of where you fit in the Burda sizing system (this is always only a guideline, you'll still want to measure, measure, measure before cutting).



------
Each fallen petal reveals a life pollinated by a colony
and nurtured by The Master Gardener.
  
Member since 4/1/08
Posts: 16111
Send Message
1 Replies
thumbsup 3 likes
Posted on: 10/2/18 9:17 PM ET
Not so much different....

Tips on where to measure,
Gentlemen's Gazette, How Pants Should Fit

Extension services are great resources,New Mexico State University, Making Great Pants

And, photo of David Coffin book. You're serious about this, if you absorb well from books consider investing in Mr. Coffin's guides.

***upside down edit - thank you mrsm!
-- Edited on 10/2/18 at 11:31 PM --

------
Each fallen petal reveals a life pollinated by a colony
and nurtured by The Master Gardener.
  
Member since 4/21/13
Posts: 1727
Send Message
thumbsup 2 likes
Posted on: 10/2/18 11:11 PM ET
In reply to a7yrstitch
You might want to check if your public library offers digital downloads via the Hoopla Digital service. My library's Hoopla subscription includes access to David Coffin's books. My recollection is that Mr. Coffin's trouser book focuses less on how to achieve proper fit, and more on proper construction and adding nice tailoring details.
------
So many books, so little time; and even more fabric, and even less time
  
12 
* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it.
Selected Reviews, Classes & Patterns
Nature's Fabrics
Natural & Organic Fabrics
Specials!
Metro Textiles
NYC Fabric Store
Specials!
Discovery Fabrics
High Performance Fabrics
Specials!