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Member since 8/21/18
Posts: 448
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Posted on: 10/28/18 3:27 PM ET
Hi all,

Looking for your expertise. I have a pattern that I'm already happy with. I'd like to make a zip-up sweater from it. How can I add a zipper down the full length? I do know I'll need to adjust the front pocket (split in two, add seam allowance to each half) but can I just cut the front pattern half-piece twice and add an extra seam allowance, and do the same for the neck piece?

Here's the front piece and line art in case it helps:
  
Member since 3/24/04
Posts: 26392
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Posted on: 10/28/18 3:54 PM ET
In reply to misterstitch
Yup. You've got it. You might want to review the centered or lapped zipper instructions here:
https://fashion-incubator.com/tutorials/

TIPS:
Consider cutting the front "on fold" with enough extension added for the zipper width you're choosing (you will have to adjust the width of the extension for the width of the zipper tape). Mark the position of what will become the center front on each side with tiny snips into the neckline and hem, and then fuse a strip of fusible interfacing to the backside of the fabric between the marks. Draw some "sew me to me" match points across that area on the face side of the fabric, and use those to help you align your zipper as you're sewing it in and making sure you're not stretching one side of the opening.

If this is a cold weather garment, consider adding a folded zipper guard on the inside of the garment, sort of like a zipper shield on a pants fly. Keeps the wind from whistling through the zipper teeth. And if you haven't met them, there are some self-sealing zippers meant for waterproof applications that can be handy in icy, windy conditions:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x007MtqSKOA
  
Member since 3/24/04
Posts: 26392
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Posted on: 10/28/18 6:19 PM ET
PS: If you're using a heavy fabric, like a heavy sweatshirting, remember to check for the extra you need for "turn of the cloth" when setting in the zipper. It might be several mm extra you need to bend the fabric.
  
Member since 10/2/13
Posts: 633
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Posted on: 10/28/18 9:30 PM ET
And now, the Shari’s Shortcut Method!
My husband has a purchased sweatshirt like this one and wanted a zipper up the front. I glued (washable) a heavy nylon separating sport-weight zipper to the center front, sewing near the teeth and along the edges of the tape. I did something tidy with the raw ends at the top. Then I trimmed away the sweatshirt fabric from behind the zipper teeth and zigzagged the raw edges to the zipper tape. Happy spouse. The only downside is that the garment now spells out ORE GON instead of OREGON.
I use this same technique for "from scratch" fleece jackets, choosing a contrasting zipper and binding the zipper tape with a third color.
-- Edited on 10/28/18 at 9:31 PM --
  
Member since 5/6/13
Posts: 374
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Posted on: 10/29/18 4:17 AM ET
Off to a good start. I'd recommend avoiding metal zipper. They can damage under clothing and you might not want the construction hassle and zipping hassle of a zipper guard. Where I live there is only one fabric store that sells zips. I dislike the big plastic teeth zips they sell. Personally, I like things hip length and like 2 way zippers. I've started buying my zippers from thrift stores either new from their notions section or from lightly used clothing. For hoodies I like the heavy nylon coil zips best. If used, the important thing is to make sure the starter tab isn't worn. It took a while but I found a barely used 2 way used on to go in my old fave double bonded fleece. $2! It was in a hoodie that shrank and twisted. You can shorten it from the top if necessary. 2 ways are nice when sitting, especially driving and when it's cold you don't have to expose your chest if you need to get into a pocket or need to pull up your pants.

While you are there, check out fashion incubator's great tutorials. She has one on collars I've recommended to a number of people. Lots to learn there and many thanks to her for posting so much. Petersham or grograin ribbon makes a nice finish on back of zip. Or a solid twill tape. If it's cotton, preshrink it. Cheers and good luck with your hoodie.
  
Member since 8/15/04
Posts: 1878
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Posted on: 10/30/18 6:24 AM ET
In reply to misterstitch
Your thought process is correct. If you have not cut the pattern in half, just fold it then trace. Increase the center front seams by 1/2 inch in width.

Use Wonder Tape to tape the zipper down on the material. You might want to keep a bottle of alcohol next to your sewing machine to wipe the needle if the tape gums up your needle. To keep the sides of the zipper even sew both sides from the bottom up.

I found this blog post helpful when sewing a jacket zipper. There is also video towards the bottom of the page. Plus, it includes a way to finish the inside collar.

http://www.japanesesewingbooks.com/2012/12/10/free-patterns-how-to-make-and-my-first-video-tutorial/

Woggy
  
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