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Member since 5/31/09
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Posted on: 12/13/18 6:42 AM ET
I've reviewed this pattern here: Glacial review, and asked for fitting advice, but I figured most people aren't looking at reviews with an eye for that, so cross-posting here. I have some little wrinkles at the lower back, less than many, and figured I might leave it alone, but SewLibra suggested a swayback wedge was probably worth it, and as I'm going to use it for a heavier merino, I'll take that advice-or add a seam to the lower back. There are also some wrinkles at the back armscye, but at 60, with a history of back injuries, I'm a bit asymmetrical, and don't want to overfit, or let the perfect drive out the good, but that said, any suggestions for adjustments are welcome. I've added a tighter photo of the back and side to my review for better diagnosis.


-- Edited on 12/13/18 at 7:17 AM --
  
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Posted on: 12/13/18 7:41 AM ET
Hi mmcp, I'm not an expert and just had a look at your review. To me it looks like your right shoulder slopes more than the left so you could try doing a sloping shoulder adjustment on that side only. I have square shoulders so it will be the opposite to what I do. Remember to take the same amount off from your under arm which could eliminate some wrinkles and maybe a little bit more than you have done to the shoulder.

If you attached the sleeve in the flat you could try doing that with your already finished garment unless the armseye is already quite low. Try basting it first.

As well as the sway back adjustment, you could try adding a little bit of extra ease to the back side seams from waist to hip. You can always trim away later if it doesn't help.

Does your pattern allow you to cut out on a single layer of fabric rather than a double? If not I'd recommend you do a mirror copy of both back and front as it is easier to make adjustments to one side only using a single layer rather than a double.
  
Member since 8/15/04
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Posted on: 12/13/18 7:48 AM ET
In reply to mmcp
Everything Helen typed. Your right hip is higher than your left and it looks as if it might be a bit fuller. I think this high hip is causing the fabric to get hung up on it.

I do the alteration Helen suggested to my right shoulder and under arm. This alteration makes a huge difference in how my T shirts and jackets fit.

Woggy
  
Member since 1/15/17
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Posted on: 12/13/18 8:10 AM ET
IMHO it would be time well invested to make a duct-tape sloper. You'd need a helping hand but it's an unerring way to see the topography of your upper torso and translate that to a (snug-fitting but not skin-tight) t-shirt sloper. Shoulder slope and width, armscye shape and everything else is there to see, also if a CB seam is the answer to the folds at your back waist. This snug-fitting tee sloper will also help you to alter commercial tee patterns to fit.
------
For 2019 committed to:
- Continue using what I have (fabric, notions, patterns, books, mags, tips & tricks etc.).
- Strive to re-use 52 items from my upcycle cupboard.
- Continue purchasing fabric and patterns mindfully.
- Continue tracking my fabric stash.
- Resume tracking my pattern stash.
- Continue with RTW fast. Exceptions: bras, socks, panty hoses, shoes. Plus anything that coincidentally crosses my way and is a truly mindful purchase.
- Prioritize replacing some plain wardrobe basics (pillars or backbones) that are close or past their lifespan over adding fun, more exciting garments that I, strictly speaking, do not need (nice-to-haves).

2018 Summary:
- Used successfully what I had and bought mindfully, i.e. fabrics.
- Got a very good grip on my stash (measured and catalogued almost all of it) but failed to sew 10% down (got 9.28% done).
- Did not meet goal to make 50 projects (new, finish or re-use UFOs, upcycle, mend, repair).
- Key take away for 2019: Set fewer number-specific goals. My sewing should be driven by needs and love, not by achieving numbers.
  
Member since 5/31/09
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Posted on: 12/13/18 9:32 AM ET
In reply to Helen May
Helen and and all posters, I'm recovering from a major back injury, and that right shoulder/hip thing you are seeing is really the result of rotation which means my left side is longer and the right is compressed. Since I'm currently in various therapies to reduce the asymmetry, which changes from week to week, I'm hesitant to build too many of them into a pattern, or build a dressform of myself in this condition. But I will certainly take a stab at some of these adjustments, and see how they feel. Many many thanks!

And yes the pattern pieces are all designed for single layer construction.

-- Edited on 12/13/18 at 4:46 PM --
  
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Posted on: 12/13/18 9:44 AM ET
In reply to ALurker
Se my notes above about recent injuries but once my body shape stabilizes i agree that's a good way to go, thank you! I am hoping this will be my holy grail knit pattern so it's worth the trouble. And i thought about a center back seam so will try that as well.
-- Edited on 12/13/18 at 9:59 AM --
  
Member since 1/15/17
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Posted on: 12/13/18 9:58 AM ET
In reply to mmcp
What I forgot to mention: It's not just useful as a t-shirt sloper but also as a guide for any sort of woven tops or jackets. Keeping fingers crossed that your therapy helps to stabilize your back soon!
------
For 2019 committed to:
- Continue using what I have (fabric, notions, patterns, books, mags, tips & tricks etc.).
- Strive to re-use 52 items from my upcycle cupboard.
- Continue purchasing fabric and patterns mindfully.
- Continue tracking my fabric stash.
- Resume tracking my pattern stash.
- Continue with RTW fast. Exceptions: bras, socks, panty hoses, shoes. Plus anything that coincidentally crosses my way and is a truly mindful purchase.
- Prioritize replacing some plain wardrobe basics (pillars or backbones) that are close or past their lifespan over adding fun, more exciting garments that I, strictly speaking, do not need (nice-to-haves).

2018 Summary:
- Used successfully what I had and bought mindfully, i.e. fabrics.
- Got a very good grip on my stash (measured and catalogued almost all of it) but failed to sew 10% down (got 9.28% done).
- Did not meet goal to make 50 projects (new, finish or re-use UFOs, upcycle, mend, repair).
- Key take away for 2019: Set fewer number-specific goals. My sewing should be driven by needs and love, not by achieving numbers.
  
Member since 5/31/09
Posts: 4379
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Posted on: 12/13/18 10:52 AM ET
In reply to ALurker
I was editing my post as you popped back in! I have a woven block (which has, btw, a very sloped and forward shoulder) and a sleeve that certainly looks like nothing else I've ever seen, but I wasn't sure how to apply that to this pattern because of the extended shoulder.

In any case, many thanks for the good wishes. At some point, I'll probably just have to come to terms with being wonky, and deal with it, but I'm still in that phase where you think, maybe I can fix this. Sigh. I'm now I'm off to try the various edits to this top. Which I guess means I'm going to have to take it off... Wrinkles or not, it's a really comfortable top!
  
Member since 3/24/04
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Posted on: 12/13/18 12:48 PM ET
In reply to mmcp
If you are doing PT, I would not do much with this pattern now, other than maybe restitching the shoulder seam on the low shoulder or contouring the side seam. You will change shape during PT, and the shape of the underlying body makes a huge difference to a closely fitted pattern, less to a less fitted pattern.

I know there have been times when a PT has been able to get a compressed joint or spasming muscle freed up for me that I have gone in looking like ) and came out looking like |. So my advice is to wait this out before doing much pattern work. If you want to wear something now that is hanging funny, consider a shoulder pad on the low side for a temporary fix.

When you are ready to fit this pattern, do consider chalking in horizontal balance lines front and back. You will find them helpful, I believe.
  
Member since 3/1/09
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Posted on: 12/13/18 1:45 PM ET
What Kayl said
and
Take a look at the length of your shoulder seam. From the photos, it looks as though it may be a little too long and goes past your shoulder point down onto the arm. It could just be the photo, but worth double checking before you consider adjusting anything else.

Always worth getting the shoulder - upper back & upper front fitted before doing anything below that level as it all hangs from there.
  
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