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Member since 11/26/16
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Posted on: 1/7/19 3:20 PM ET
I am making pattern adjustments to an armhole princess seam shirt, and I am not sure where I should do the shoulder to apex adjustment that I need. The area between shoulder and apex needs to be shortened about 2 inches. Do I only do this on the front piece, just above where the side front is connected? Or, should I adjust further down towards the original apex / bust line, which would also involve the side front? I realize that the armhole will need to be trued, and have already made a template of the original armhole to assist with that. Thank you!!
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Glen22
  
Member since 3/24/04
Posts: 26392
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Posted on: 1/7/19 4:14 PM ET
In reply to glen22
Have you made a muslin? If so, I'd try pinning out tucks to see where the optimal placement of the shortening belongs. Otherwise, I'd probably take out about an inch from the middle of the armscye and an inch between armscye and bust as a first guess.

Remember you're going to have to adjust all of the princess panels.

  
Member since 1/15/17
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Posted on: 1/7/19 4:23 PM ET
In reply to glen22
Do it as your body requires it. Which IMHO is easiest to find out by a quick & dirty tissue fitting exercise - just the front, not the whole pattern.

I'd caution against standard advice that would often have you lengthening only between shoulder and armpit. For example, I need to add length to the shoulder/apex distance too - but at the same time I need to shorten the shoulder/armpit distance because my body is so short from shoulder to armpit. Therefore, I need to add between armpit and bust.

Only testing on your body will tell you where exactly it is that your body needs more length.
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For 2019 committed to:
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Member since 11/26/16
Posts: 42
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Posted on: 1/7/19 4:49 PM ET
In reply to kayl
Thanks, Kayl- I kind of figured that front and SF might need adjusting- have not yet made the muslin- guess that is next step!
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Glen22
  
Member since 11/26/12
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Posted on: 1/7/19 9:14 PM ET
In reply to glen22
If it works for your body’s it is easier to make adjustments above the princess seams as you do not have to retrue the princess seams. I always have to add below the armhole but above the bust so I have has to adjust the princess seams. Doable but a pain :(
  
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Posted on: 1/7/19 9:37 PM ET
In reply to with love Heidi
The other way to handle it is to rotate the princess seam from the bust point to elsewhere, out of range of where you need to adjust, make the adjustment, and then rotate back to the original position.
  
Member since 11/26/16
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Posted on: 1/8/19 1:45 PM ET
In reply to glen22
I think I may have figured this out! If I subtract 2 inches from the front bodice piece, it would stand to reason ( I hope!) that I would need to add 2 inches to the side seam of the side front, unless I purposely want a smaller armsyce. Sometimes I just overthink things til I am brain dead or crazy!
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Glen22
  
Member since 11/26/16
Posts: 42
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Posted on: 1/8/19 1:45 PM ET
In reply to glen22
I think I may have figured this out! If I subtract 2 inches from the front bodice piece, it would stand to reason ( I hope!) that I would need to add 2 inches to the side seam of the side front, unless I purposely want a smaller armsyce. Sometimes I just overthink things til I am brain dead or crazy!
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Glen22
  
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