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Moderated by EleanorSews
Posted on: 4/26/19 2:07 AM ET

Hello I have now finished the facing on the neck and with a row of topstitch too. I have noticed now that the facing seam seems tighter than other fabrics I have worked with. The composition is wool 60%, linen 37% and silk 3%. I cut the pieces out on a single layer of fabric and I had had to make my own pattern from the adjusted original. I had wondered if I hadn't cut the facings out on the bias but on checking I did. Is there any other reason for this. Also, I tend to avoid interfacing for some reason.
Posted on: 4/26/19 11:42 AM ET
A smaller neck circumference may end up with tighter facing than a larger one.
Did you clip enough of the inside seam, to make the facing relax into the neckline?
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Did you clip enough of the inside seam, to make the facing relax into the neckline?
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Needlework brings joy and meaning to my life...member of ASG
Now using: Singer 301, Pfaff 6152 & BL Enlighten serger
Now using: Singer 301, Pfaff 6152 & BL Enlighten serger
Posted on: 4/26/19 11:47 AM ET
In reply to SandiMacD
Oh dear!
No I didn't trim off very much only where there is bulk at the joins. The fabric frays quite badly and I didn't want to give it an excuse to fray some more.
I will bare that in mind for the next dress I make.
No I didn't trim off very much only where there is bulk at the joins. The fabric frays quite badly and I didn't want to give it an excuse to fray some more.
I will bare that in mind for the next dress I make.
Posted on: 4/26/19 12:18 PM ET
In reply to sewing4therapy
I believe Sandi is asking if you made small cuts on the seamline, perpendicular to it, to allow the seam allowance to spread when the neckline is turned right side out.
Try this on scraps: Sew a curved seam, like a neckline, using the standard seam allowance of 5/8"/15 mm. Lay your shell and facing on a table, as sewn.
Place the point of your lower scissors blade (make sure they cut cleanly, all the way to the tip) between the shell and facing, perpendicular to the seam line. Close the blades, making a snip through the upper seam allowance. Continue on, clipping about every 10-20 mm along the curve.
Turn the pieces of fabric over on the table, and do the same thing again, clipping just the upper seam allowance perpendicular to the line of stitching. Alternate the clip placement, so the clips on the facing don't line up with your clips on the shell (this helps the clips not to show through when you press the neckline.). Turn and press the neckline curve on your scraps, and it should lie much better.
If the fabric is quite ravelly, you can also run a line of stitching (short-ish stitches) about 3-5 mm inside the stitching line on both facing and
shell. This is similar to doing stay stitching inside the seam allowance. When you clip, clip only to this inner line of stitching. not to the actual seamline. Clip both shell and facing, as above, then turn and press.
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Yet another tactic is to use only 10 mm seam allowance, as that usually doesn't require clipping to turn easily.
Try this on scraps: Sew a curved seam, like a neckline, using the standard seam allowance of 5/8"/15 mm. Lay your shell and facing on a table, as sewn.
Place the point of your lower scissors blade (make sure they cut cleanly, all the way to the tip) between the shell and facing, perpendicular to the seam line. Close the blades, making a snip through the upper seam allowance. Continue on, clipping about every 10-20 mm along the curve.
Turn the pieces of fabric over on the table, and do the same thing again, clipping just the upper seam allowance perpendicular to the line of stitching. Alternate the clip placement, so the clips on the facing don't line up with your clips on the shell (this helps the clips not to show through when you press the neckline.). Turn and press the neckline curve on your scraps, and it should lie much better.
If the fabric is quite ravelly, you can also run a line of stitching (short-ish stitches) about 3-5 mm inside the stitching line on both facing and
shell. This is similar to doing stay stitching inside the seam allowance. When you clip, clip only to this inner line of stitching. not to the actual seamline. Clip both shell and facing, as above, then turn and press.
----------------
Yet another tactic is to use only 10 mm seam allowance, as that usually doesn't require clipping to turn easily.
Posted on: 4/26/19 11:37 PM ET
In reply to kayl
Fantastic advice
Thank you
Thank you
Posted on: 4/27/19 0:26 AM ET
What kayl said. I recently made a jacket from faux leather with a rayon Bemberg lining. Neither had any stretch, and the lining was prone to fraying. I can't remember why I have two rows of stitching below my clips...other than to say this thing was kind of a beast to sew. The first pic shows getting the lining to fit the neck facing, which was not too much fun. The little holes you see at the lining edge is because I didn't think ahead and should have known better,
but serged from hem to hem of the lining. Of course I shouldn't have serged the neckline area and had to take it out so I could clip, clip, clip. The second pic shows it all worked out.


-- Edited on 4/27/19 at 0:29 AM --
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but serged from hem to hem of the lining. Of course I shouldn't have serged the neckline area and had to take it out so I could clip, clip, clip. The second pic shows it all worked out. 

-- Edited on 4/27/19 at 0:29 AM --
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Sewing keeps me from falling apart at the seams!
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Posted on: 4/27/19 3:30 AM ET
In reply to SewLibra
What beautiful work and where did you get those labels.
Posted on: 4/27/19 11:50 AM ET
Kayl's answer is just what I meant! If the fabric is very unravelling sometimes it also works to use picking shears and cut in close instead of clipping. If the clipping makes a nasty mess of tangled fibers.
Or you may find a combination of clipping and close pinking cuts will work.
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Or you may find a combination of clipping and close pinking cuts will work.
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Needlework brings joy and meaning to my life...member of ASG
Now using: Singer 301, Pfaff 6152 & BL Enlighten serger
Now using: Singer 301, Pfaff 6152 & BL Enlighten serger
Posted on: 4/27/19 12:05 PM ET
In reply to SandiMacD
Thank you
I understood your response but didn't put my reply very well.
I understood your response but didn't put my reply very well.
Posted on: 4/27/19 2:21 PM ET
In reply to sewing4therapy
Thanks! I purchase my labels online from Wunderlabel. I got some from Dutch Label Shop once but find the Wunderlabel softer, more vibrant and better quality.
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Sewing keeps me from falling apart at the seams!
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
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