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Posted on: 5/27/19 6:30 PM ET
I'd like to ask a few questions regarding a jacket pattern project in a pattern textbook that I'm using?


(Regarding Pictures 1 and 2)
For the front pattern piece of the jacket, entry #4 in the instructions pictured below says to "mark the hem 2 inches (up)".

1. This means that the finished garment will be two inches shorter than the muslin that i sewed up? (The muslin was equivalent in length to the pattern itself, before making any hem additions.) (This question may sound silly, but I just want to make sure.)


(Regarding Picture 3)
Also, in the third image below, the author states that I "do not add a seam allowance (SA) to the hems as it is already "built in"." She then states to "mark and notch up 1/2 inch."

2. What exactly does "built in" mean in this case? I do not understand how the seam allowance is "built in".

3. What are the notches just above the hem for? The notches are not there to mark the seam allowance? Are they to ensure that the pattern pieces will match up when sewn together?

(Regarding Picture 4)
In #3 of this photo's instructions, the author states "mark hems 2 inches (up); this includes the 1/2 inch seam allowance).

4. What are the notches being used for here? And I don't understand what is meant by "this includes the 1/2 inch seam allowance." How would I mark the seam allowance myself for clarity? And at what point/placement?

I've never seen a sewing pattern with no hemlines and seeing only the notches there is making it confusing for me. Can someone please explain? I'd really appreciate it. Thank you.










-- Edited on 5/27/19 at 6:39 PM --
  
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Posted on: 5/27/19 9:52 PM ET
In reply to peaceinsewing
Trying my best to follow along.
1. Yes, what you've drafted includes 2" that is supposed to be turned up as a hem. So the finished garment is 2" shorter.
2. The notches are marking the fold of the hem. So 2" is turned up, but 1/2" of that is used as a seam allowance-for joining shell to lining. So when all is done, 2" will be turned up, but only 1 1/2" of that will be visible on the inside.
3. It's very helpful to have the hem fold notched, this isn't to match the seam while sewing, no one would be off that close to the start of a seam. Instead it's a guide when it comes time to iron the hem fold into place. Also, sometimes a hem is clipped all the way to the stitching line at this notch, this allows the seam allowance to be pushed in two different directions on either side of the hem. Sometimes this makes for a cleaner fold.
4. If you want more guides, you could mark a fold line from notch to notch (at a depth of 2") and also mark a seam line 1/2" from the edge. This hasn't been marked because the notches are sufficient and these are seams that join lining and shell and are completed later. The lining pieces have a notch 1/2" above the cut edge, which marks the seam allowance, for joining to the shell.

What book are you using?

This pattern is being prepared for industry, the conventions are different from home sewing patterns.
  
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Posted on: 5/28/19 4:11 AM ET
In reply to JNE4SL
Quote: JNE4SL
Trying my best to follow along.

1. Yes, what you've drafted includes 2" that is supposed to be turned up as a hem. So the finished garment is 2" shorter.

2. The notches are marking the fold of the hem. So 2" is turned up, but 1/2" of that is used as a seam allowance-for joining shell to lining. So when all is done, 2" will be turned up, but only 1 1/2" of that will be visible on the inside.

3. It's very helpful to have the hem fold notched, this isn't to match the seam while sewing, no one would be off that close to the start of a seam. Instead it's a guide when it comes time to iron the hem fold into place. Also, sometimes a hem is clipped all the way to the stitching line at this notch, this allows the seam allowance to be pushed in two different directions on either side of the hem. Sometimes this makes for a cleaner fold.

4. If you want more guides, you could mark a fold line from notch to notch (at a depth of 2") and also mark a seam line 1/2" from the edge. This hasn't been marked because the notches are sufficient and these are seams that join lining and shell and are completed later. The lining pieces have a notch 1/2" above the cut edge, which marks the seam allowance, for joining to the shell.



What book are you using?



This pattern is being prepared for industry, the conventions are different from home sewing patterns.

This was perfectly clear, thank you SO much! I'll mark the pattern with more guidelines to make it easier for me to read.

I'm using Vanderlinde's Patternmaking Techniques for Jackets and Coats. She states in the book that she's using industry standards for marking seam allowances, etc. which I didn't think would be problematic at first - that I would just make everything a 5/8 inch seam allowance. But once I got to marking my hem, I was confused. Thank you for this clear explanation.
-- Edited on 5/28/19 at 4:12 AM --
  
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Posted on: 5/28/19 7:12 AM ET
In reply to peaceinsewing
Yes, it's hard to mark hem allowances or casings without knowing the seam allowance, so even if you intend to change it, it's important to know the original assumptions. It looks like there are different allowances used throughout, I know this isn't typical for home sewing, but it does save a lot of trimming later. You certainly never need 5/8" seam allowance inside a jacket to lining seam. Good luck, the instructions look good.
  
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Posted on: 5/28/19 8:08 AM ET
In reply to JNE4SL
Quote: JNE4SL
Yes, it's hard to mark hem allowances or casings without knowing the seam allowance, so even if you intend to change it, it's important to know the original assumptions. It looks like there are different allowances used throughout, I know this isn't typical for home sewing, but it does save a lot of trimming later. You certainly never need 5/8" seam allowance inside a jacket to lining seam. Good luck, the instructions look good.

Yikes, one last question, please? I made the changes to the guidelines mentioned earlier (mark a foldline 2 inches above the cutting edge & a mark a seam allowance 1/2 inch above the cutting edge). But when the author states to "discard this wedge" in the Note under Instruction #6, Photo 1, should a seam allowance be added to where the wedge was? I included a photo below with arrows pointing to the exact two edges I' asking about. I'm just wondering how to handle seam allowance along those two edges. Could you please, please let me know how I would proceed there? Thank you.





  
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Posted on: 5/28/19 8:31 AM ET
In reply to peaceinsewing
Currently it includes a seam allowance. Directly above the discarded square, everything bellow the hem fold is SA. (At the jacket opening, the seam will be along the contour, after that it transitions to the 2" turn up.) Presumably, along the side of the discarded square the seam allowance is the same. If you want it to be 5/8", discard a smaller square, but the stitching line will remain the same.
  
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Posted on: 5/28/19 8:40 AM ET
In reply to JNE4SL
Quote: JNE4SL
Currently it includes a seam allowance. Directly above the discarded square, everything bellow the hem fold is SA. (At the jacket opening, the seam will be along the contour, after that it transitions to the 2" turn up.) Presumably, along the side of the discarded square the seam allowance is the same. If you want it to be 5/8", discard a smaller square, but the stitching line will remain the same.

Wonderful, I understand now, thank you SO much for your help!
  
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Posted on: 5/28/19 10:21 AM ET
It sounds like you've had your questions answered. When following a book that uses industry SAs, it's easier to use them. They are more convenient to measure and you don't need a 5/8" SA. A 1" SA can be helpful in some places for fitting a muslin or to allow the garment to be altered in the future or allow the fabric to lie better.
  
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Posted on: 5/28/19 12:24 PM ET
In reply to pointpatou
Quote: pointpatou
It sounds like you've had your questions answered. When following a book that uses industry SAs, it's easier to use them. They are more convenient to measure and you don't need a 5/8" SA. A 1" SA can be helpful in some places for fitting a muslin or to allow the garment to be altered in the future or allow the fabric to lie better.

I am finding it more confusing to change the seam allowances. I was just afraid that if I used the industry seam allowances as listed in the book, that I would forget that a given seam may differ in size and mistakenly sew a larger or smaller seam than necessary. For the next projects in the book, I will use the seam allowances as indicated by the author. Much less confusing.
  
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Posted on: 5/28/19 2:09 PM ET
In reply to peaceinsewing
If there are a lot of different SAs I write the measurement on the pattern next to the sewing line or in the seam allowance. It's easy to get confused. I HATE measuring 5/8". If for some reason I have to use it or a 3/8" measurement I have a separate ruler with tape under the line so I can pick out the measurement quickly. You have to be careful which tape you use because some brands ruin the ruler when you try to remove them.
  
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