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Sewing Workshop Mixit Top (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Posted on: 6/6/19 4:06 PM ET
I’ve made two versions of the Sewing Workshop Mixit Top and am not sure about the sleeves. This pattern is designed for wovens and this version is in linen.
First, I think I need to size down, but what I’m not thrilled with on either version is the gathering on the sleeves. I crimped carefully using the markings, however they just look ... poofy.
I want to try another version in a size down and wonder about removing some of the sleeve head.
Question 1 - Do the sleeves look too poofy?
If yes to Question 1 - Would I just fold out a bit on the sleeve?
First, I think I need to size down, but what I’m not thrilled with on either version is the gathering on the sleeves. I crimped carefully using the markings, however they just look ... poofy.
I want to try another version in a size down and wonder about removing some of the sleeve head.
Question 1 - Do the sleeves look too poofy?
If yes to Question 1 - Would I just fold out a bit on the sleeve?
Posted on: 6/6/19 4:06 PM ET
Picture
Posted on: 6/6/19 4:24 PM ET
Well, I'm not a fan of the poofiness either. And, maybe, to question 2. I'd be tempted to compare the sleeve to another pattern and see what the difference is.
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Patti
R-r-r-ripping my way to fitting success
R-r-r-ripping my way to fitting success
Posted on: 6/6/19 4:32 PM ET
In reply to LifeofJanine
It appears to have too much ease to set in well. It should set in smoothly.
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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Posted on: 6/6/19 4:38 PM ET
I think the gathers (if they're meant to be gathers!) would look better if they hit at the shoulder. Is the style supposed to have dropped shoulders, or is it possible you need a smaller size there or a narrow shoulder adjustment?
Also, some fabrics are inexplicably resistant to easing, and there seems to be little explanation for why. I made umpteen mockups of a princess seam blazer last summer--some of my muslin eased like a dream, and some of it was impossible--puckers EVERYWHERE. I've made natural-fiber things that won't ease, and synthetics that mystifyingly ease beautifully (heavy poly velour? What?), and everything in between. This particular fabric might be one that's just going to fight you--in which case you'll need a workaround (remove some sleeve cap ease, trim down the seam allowances, turn the gathers into a couple of pleats for design interest, choose a smaller size for the sleeve, etc...)
Good luck!
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Also, some fabrics are inexplicably resistant to easing, and there seems to be little explanation for why. I made umpteen mockups of a princess seam blazer last summer--some of my muslin eased like a dream, and some of it was impossible--puckers EVERYWHERE. I've made natural-fiber things that won't ease, and synthetics that mystifyingly ease beautifully (heavy poly velour? What?), and everything in between. This particular fabric might be one that's just going to fight you--in which case you'll need a workaround (remove some sleeve cap ease, trim down the seam allowances, turn the gathers into a couple of pleats for design interest, choose a smaller size for the sleeve, etc...)
Good luck!
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~Elizabeth in the prairie
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
More Plans than Sense
PR's Most Relentless Babbler 2024
Posted on: 6/6/19 4:43 PM ET
In reply to stirwatersblue
If this is the pattern, it doesn't look like they're meant to be gathers. And the seam in the illustration is higher -- closer to the shoulder line.
Janine, I wonder if maybe you need to trace a smaller size at the shoulder (or do a narrow shoulder adjustment)?

-- Edited on 6/6/19 at 4:45 PM --
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Janine, I wonder if maybe you need to trace a smaller size at the shoulder (or do a narrow shoulder adjustment)?

-- Edited on 6/6/19 at 4:45 PM --
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Posted on: 6/6/19 4:44 PM ET
In reply to LifeofJanine
If you plan to fiddle with the sleeve anyway do you think you might like it better as a longish cap sleeve? Shorter under the arm to give the sleeve hem more of a horizontal line?
It's an awkward design. Wondering how the top would look with a longer above elbow sleeve with a slit opening mirroring the neck opening (a little shorter to stay in proportion). More work but the sleeve pattern has already created more work.
Have you contacted Sewing Workshop with a photo? That sleeve looks like it could be about four sizes too big for the garment. Maybe it is a great big ole' mistake.
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It's an awkward design. Wondering how the top would look with a longer above elbow sleeve with a slit opening mirroring the neck opening (a little shorter to stay in proportion). More work but the sleeve pattern has already created more work.
Have you contacted Sewing Workshop with a photo? That sleeve looks like it could be about four sizes too big for the garment. Maybe it is a great big ole' mistake.
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Each fallen petal reveals a life pollinated by a colony
and nurtured by The Master Gardener.
and nurtured by The Master Gardener.
Posted on: 6/6/19 5:05 PM ET
Thanks for the image Vintage Joan. Yup, the shoulder line.
I would.....
Baste in new shoulder line.
Gently wash or rinse the garment and dry to return the fabric to pre-manipulated state.
Hand stay stitch the new shoulder line or temporarily stabilize it with painter's tape.
If I hand stitched the stay line, would use separate thread/stitch runs for any area that might need to be relaxed after the construction process to work with the sleeve and for comfort - perhaps the top and back of the shoulder.
Determine if you need to create a faux gusset if the bodice underarm falls short.
Walk the new sleeve head pattern against the new shoulder line.
Use a long scrap of fabric to determine how much you can reasonably gather/ease/tuck/pleat.
Compare the scrap experiment to what you are working with.
****On most wovens I gather the sleeve head to match the pattern (at the ironing board) and then gently press over my rolled and folded towel 'ham'. Before construction. And, always checking against pattern shoulder line.
Consider cutting new sleeves from scrap fabric. Stay stitch right at the stitch line. Clip right up to stitch line. Pin to bodice to analyze fit before working with your garment fabric.
Love your finishing work on the collar and neck opening. You make me want to scrap my plans for the rest of the day and execute some garment construction.
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I would.....
Baste in new shoulder line.
Gently wash or rinse the garment and dry to return the fabric to pre-manipulated state.
Hand stay stitch the new shoulder line or temporarily stabilize it with painter's tape.
If I hand stitched the stay line, would use separate thread/stitch runs for any area that might need to be relaxed after the construction process to work with the sleeve and for comfort - perhaps the top and back of the shoulder.
Determine if you need to create a faux gusset if the bodice underarm falls short.
Walk the new sleeve head pattern against the new shoulder line.
Use a long scrap of fabric to determine how much you can reasonably gather/ease/tuck/pleat.
Compare the scrap experiment to what you are working with.
****On most wovens I gather the sleeve head to match the pattern (at the ironing board) and then gently press over my rolled and folded towel 'ham'. Before construction. And, always checking against pattern shoulder line.
Consider cutting new sleeves from scrap fabric. Stay stitch right at the stitch line. Clip right up to stitch line. Pin to bodice to analyze fit before working with your garment fabric.
Love your finishing work on the collar and neck opening. You make me want to scrap my plans for the rest of the day and execute some garment construction.

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Each fallen petal reveals a life pollinated by a colony
and nurtured by The Master Gardener.
and nurtured by The Master Gardener.
Posted on: 6/6/19 5:54 PM ET
There's a way of easing sleeves where you don't gather at all. I know I've seen it posted here (and I have a DVR of it demoed on It's Sew Easy that I always refer to). Basically you only pin the markings (the notches and/or circles) and then sew VERY slowly while easing by hand.
I've used it a couple times and, while it's a bit time consuming, it works much better than gathering. I suppose if I added up the time for the gathering (sewing at least twice, then pulling and pinning) and taking out the gathering threads, it might even be quicker.
But I also agree with the poster who asked if you were sure you had the correct size sleeve piece. I've done that before (cut the sleeve a different size).
I've used it a couple times and, while it's a bit time consuming, it works much better than gathering. I suppose if I added up the time for the gathering (sewing at least twice, then pulling and pinning) and taking out the gathering threads, it might even be quicker.
But I also agree with the poster who asked if you were sure you had the correct size sleeve piece. I've done that before (cut the sleeve a different size).
Posted on: 6/6/19 7:19 PM ET
I think there is too much ease in the sleeve - definitely take some out.
Slash the cap in two places opposite each other - above the notches - and fold the excess out
I might buy this pattern so good to know there is this to look out for.
I would go for a slightly longer cap and as another poster has suggested and if possible try to get the sleeve closer to your shoulder.
You have some good advice from others so am sure this will work out perfectly. Let us know.
Slash the cap in two places opposite each other - above the notches - and fold the excess out
I might buy this pattern so good to know there is this to look out for.
I would go for a slightly longer cap and as another poster has suggested and if possible try to get the sleeve closer to your shoulder.
You have some good advice from others so am sure this will work out perfectly. Let us know.
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