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Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952
Posted on: 6/15/19 5:15 PM ET
I’d like to add a back pleat to a blouse to give myself a bit more room across my back. So far I have tried a 1” pleat on a muslin and it adds the perfect amount across my mid back but adds far too much ease over my back waist. Can I draft the pleat so it’s just at the top, under the yoke, and taper it down to nothing at the bottom hem, or will that throw everything off kilter?
-- Edited on 6/15/19 at 5:16 PM --
-- Edited on 6/15/19 at 5:40 PM --
-- Edited on 6/15/19 at 5:16 PM --
-- Edited on 6/15/19 at 5:40 PM --
Posted on: 6/15/19 5:32 PM ET
I've never tried it, but it seems like it would work. It would be like a vertical dart that you don't actually stitch. Or like pleat-front pants where the extra fullness tapers to nothing down the leg. Might as well muslin it and see.
Posted on: 6/15/19 7:33 PM ET
Or you can sew the pleat back down starting from your back waist, so the pleat will only be open from from the yoke to back waist. Or you could sew the pleat back together for maybe an inch at your back waist and then let the pleat remain open below the waist. In that case, the pleat would be open from the yoke to waist, and then again below the waist to the hem.
Posted on: 6/15/19 10:35 PM ET
In reply to RedRockin
That could be a really attractive design feature! It reminds me of back yoke jackets worn by men in the 1930's that had a pleat at center back, and then a decorative back waist belt to hide the sewn portion you describe above. For today's purposes, such a pleat could be subtle by just widening the center back and then folding the excess on either side back to the original center back line, or the pleat could be of a contrasting material. Hmmm - I'm loving this idea.
Posted on: 6/16/19 12:33 PM ET
In reply to RedRockin
Yes, this! I have RTW blouse like this I have planned to copy. It's a cute look, gives back interest and is flattering by the shape it creates. 
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Sewing keeps me from falling apart at the seams!
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Posted on: 6/16/19 2:27 PM ET
You can try a longer separation between the pleat, placing each of the pleat ends nearer each of the shoulders instead of in the middle. Then the bulk of fabric won't be right in the middle of your waist center back.
-- Edited on 6/16/19 at 2:28 PM --
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-- Edited on 6/16/19 at 2:28 PM --
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Needlework brings joy and meaning to my life...member of ASG
Now using: Singer 301, Pfaff 6152 & BL Enlighten serger
Now using: Singer 301, Pfaff 6152 & BL Enlighten serger
Posted on: 6/16/19 7:55 PM ET
In reply to outofthehouse
OR - you can just do a shoulder adjustment across the back & not have to change anything else & not need a pleat at all!
The tutorial I attached here is pretty good.
Good luck.
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The tutorial I attached here is pretty good.
Good luck.
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My Herd: Bernina 790 Plus Upgrade, Bernina 735, Babylock Triumph, Bernina Record 931. Sewing Makes My Crazy Life Normal.
Member #25631
Member #25631
Posted on: 6/18/19 1:40 AM ET
Adding to my previous post, I took a pic and measured the seam at the waist area. On my RTW, shown, the seam is 4". I think it's a really nice look.

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Sewing keeps me from falling apart at the seams!
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Posted on: 6/18/19 7:42 AM ET
Thanks so much for the ideas I really like the look of that RTW blouse. I’m going to keep that in mind as an option for the future. I will likely always need a bit of extra width across the mid back as I’m broad there.
I can’t just do a broad should adjustment as I actually have narrow shoulders and a broad back which is a tricky combo to work with
-- Edited on 6/18/19 at 7:42 AM --
I can’t just do a broad should adjustment as I actually have narrow shoulders and a broad back which is a tricky combo to work with
-- Edited on 6/18/19 at 7:42 AM --
Minnesota USA
Skill: Advanced
Skill: Advanced
Posted on: 6/18/19 11:38 AM ET
I really like that blouse SewLibra posted!
This pattern is from Burda 04/2018. I was confused about how the pleat+waist seam would work but apparently it does! Beth who blogs at Sunnygalstudios has made it a couple of times and it looks great. I plan to making it this fall.

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This pattern is from Burda 04/2018. I was confused about how the pleat+waist seam would work but apparently it does! Beth who blogs at Sunnygalstudios has made it a couple of times and it looks great. I plan to making it this fall.

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Janome Skyline S3 | Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 | Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503
Baby Lock Celebrate | Brother 2340CV
My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip
http://dressmakingdebacles.blogspot.com
Baby Lock Celebrate | Brother 2340CV
My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip
http://dressmakingdebacles.blogspot.com
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