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Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952
Posted on: 9/29/19 9:17 PM ET
Hi,
I drafted an athletic fit t-shirt pattern and tested it with some lightweight cotton jersey. Overall I'm happy with the fit but I have a couple of problems : the first is bulging fabric in the shoulder cap - could it have something to do with the shape of the cap?
Second is some puckering on the back of the shoulder cap. Which is surprising since I only have 1/2" of ease and I serged it on the flat without any problems.
What am I doing wrong ?






-- Edited on 9/29/19 at 9:19 PM --
I drafted an athletic fit t-shirt pattern and tested it with some lightweight cotton jersey. Overall I'm happy with the fit but I have a couple of problems : the first is bulging fabric in the shoulder cap - could it have something to do with the shape of the cap?
Second is some puckering on the back of the shoulder cap. Which is surprising since I only have 1/2" of ease and I serged it on the flat without any problems.
What am I doing wrong ?






-- Edited on 9/29/19 at 9:19 PM --
Posted on: 9/29/19 9:46 PM ET
Have you given the seams a good steaming? Which way is the seam allowance turned? Into the body, or toward the sleeve?
Posted on: 9/29/19 9:51 PM ET
You're on the right track. The 5.5" cap is a little tall for a knit tee - both decreasing its height and removing all ease will reduce the sleeve cap bulge. Try it at 4-4.5" and see if it still bubbles up with movement.
If after shortening the sleeve cap you still see puckering along the back of the armhole, the next step would be to shift more of the "hump" of the cap toward the back so there is more material across the span of the back for range of motion.
If after shortening the sleeve cap you still see puckering along the back of the armhole, the next step would be to shift more of the "hump" of the cap toward the back so there is more material across the span of the back for range of motion.
Posted on: 9/29/19 9:55 PM ET
The puckering in the back looks like maybe the fabric got stretched or pushed a bit too much when going through the machine. As Kayl said, a steam pressing might shrink it back up.
Posted on: 9/30/19 0:21 AM ET
You might try basting in a deeper seam allowance and see if that helps. If so, transfer the change to your pattern. If it makes the shirt too tight there though I would shorten the sleeve cap.
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Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
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Posted on: 9/30/19 9:22 AM ET
Those both look like such minor issues, that must stretch out when the arm is positioned differently. Definitely press seam allowances toward the body, not the toward the sleeve (no saying they'll stay put, but this should smooth the shoulder tip a bit if you haven't already done that).
To me, the fit at the underarm looks too high, even for athletic fit. If you increased the cap height, while holding the sleeve cap length essentially constant, you should get a better fit all together. The extra height would make the sleeve cap a little narrower and this might also be just the thing to eliminate the tiny bit of looseness that allows the back of the cap to pucker. An athletic fit shirt often has some negative ease, but not vertically, unless specifically matched to a fabric.
To me, the fit at the underarm looks too high, even for athletic fit. If you increased the cap height, while holding the sleeve cap length essentially constant, you should get a better fit all together. The extra height would make the sleeve cap a little narrower and this might also be just the thing to eliminate the tiny bit of looseness that allows the back of the cap to pucker. An athletic fit shirt often has some negative ease, but not vertically, unless specifically matched to a fabric.
Posted on: 9/30/19 2:14 PM ET
In reply to kayl
Quote: kayl
Have you given the seams a good steaming? Which way is the seam allowance turned? Into the body, or toward the sleeve?
Have you given the seams a good steaming? Which way is the seam allowance turned? Into the body, or toward the sleeve?
Yes I gave it a good press, but pressed towards the sleeves as it seemed it was the natural way the seam allowance wanted to go. Should I try to force it towards the body and top stitch the seam allowance ?
Posted on: 9/30/19 2:16 PM ET
In reply to Sku
Quote: Sku
You're on the right track. The 5.5" cap is a little tall for a knit tee - both decreasing its height and removing all ease will reduce the sleeve cap bulge. Try it at 4-4.5" and see if it still bubbles up with movement.
If after shortening the sleeve cap you still see puckering along the back of the armhole, the next step would be to shift more of the "hump" of the cap toward the back so there is more material across the span of the back for range of motion.
You're on the right track. The 5.5" cap is a little tall for a knit tee - both decreasing its height and removing all ease will reduce the sleeve cap bulge. Try it at 4-4.5" and see if it still bubbles up with movement.
If after shortening the sleeve cap you still see puckering along the back of the armhole, the next step would be to shift more of the "hump" of the cap toward the back so there is more material across the span of the back for range of motion.
The cap is a little over 5.5", I'll start by reducing it by 1/2 inch with no ease.
Posted on: 9/30/19 2:18 PM ET
In reply to itssewover
Quote: itssewover
The puckering in the back looks like maybe the fabric got stretched or pushed a bit too much when going through the machine. As Kayl said, a steam pressing might shrink it back up.
The puckering in the back looks like maybe the fabric got stretched or pushed a bit too much when going through the machine. As Kayl said, a steam pressing might shrink it back up.
I think that might be it too. Next version I'll do without ease and directly on the serger instead of the sewing machine.
Posted on: 9/30/19 2:20 PM ET
If I shorten the cap height and make it less steep, should I add the reduced length to the end of the sleeve ? I wouldn't want the sleeves and shorter.
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