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How to Align (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 10/11/19 5:56 PM ET
I'm learning to ask before I cut....so I apologize for so many questions lately. I've been sewing for a long time, but realize I'm a beginner in that I've never learned the correct way to handle many sewing techniques and basics and want to start doing things the proper way- so thank you in advance.
My typical way of shortening a pattern length would be to just cut off the amount from the bottom- but I know the "fold here to shorten" on a pattern is there for a reason.
Question:
I'm planning on making a skirt, and would need to shorten. When I fold on the line indicated on the pattern- I align the grain line arrows, but the cut lines are now off. do I pinch the pattern so these lines align?
So much appreciate your knowledge
My typical way of shortening a pattern length would be to just cut off the amount from the bottom- but I know the "fold here to shorten" on a pattern is there for a reason.
Question:
I'm planning on making a skirt, and would need to shorten. When I fold on the line indicated on the pattern- I align the grain line arrows, but the cut lines are now off. do I pinch the pattern so these lines align?
So much appreciate your knowledge
Posted on: 10/11/19 6:02 PM ET
No you would "true" the lines, so redraw your cut lines from hem to waist. This would depend on your skirt style. One step I often do is extend the grainline all the way up or down, this helps me with adding design details and other alterations (like a full bust adjustment).
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Sewing keeps me sane.
My herd includes a Singer Sewhandy, Bernina Artista 180, vintage Bernina 830 Record, Pfaff 794 serger, Juki 634D, Babylock BLCS2, Singer Slant Needle 403 from my grandmother, a Husqvarna 6570, a Viking Quilt Designer SE and my latest bargain Janome MC 10000.
My herd includes a Singer Sewhandy, Bernina Artista 180, vintage Bernina 830 Record, Pfaff 794 serger, Juki 634D, Babylock BLCS2, Singer Slant Needle 403 from my grandmother, a Husqvarna 6570, a Viking Quilt Designer SE and my latest bargain Janome MC 10000.
Posted on: 10/11/19 6:22 PM ET
Thank you Lynn....now I know I'm a beginner because I've never done this. If I'm understanding this correctly, I would align my grain line, then redraw the seam line from the waist down, graduating until they match. (?)
Posted on: 10/11/19 7:47 PM ET
In reply to SyndiMC
It depends on the style and shape of the skirt seam, for an a-line without any waist shaping you could draw from waist to hem. For a straight skirt that curves in at the waist, your line would go from the hipline to hem.
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Sewing keeps me sane.
My herd includes a Singer Sewhandy, Bernina Artista 180, vintage Bernina 830 Record, Pfaff 794 serger, Juki 634D, Babylock BLCS2, Singer Slant Needle 403 from my grandmother, a Husqvarna 6570, a Viking Quilt Designer SE and my latest bargain Janome MC 10000.
My herd includes a Singer Sewhandy, Bernina Artista 180, vintage Bernina 830 Record, Pfaff 794 serger, Juki 634D, Babylock BLCS2, Singer Slant Needle 403 from my grandmother, a Husqvarna 6570, a Viking Quilt Designer SE and my latest bargain Janome MC 10000.
Posted on: 10/11/19 9:03 PM ET
Thank you- trying to do things the correct way :)
Posted on: 10/11/19 9:19 PM ET
In reply to SyndiMC
Your "cut off the bottom" method isn't a bad way to do this, either. It depends on what you want for a finished product.
Let's say you are dealing with an ankle-length A -line skirt, so basically a long triangle. If you lop off the bottom 6", like I used to do with my mom's patterns, you have not only shortened the skirt, but you have reduced the hem circumference. That might be a good thing if the usual impression of you in that skirt is, "too much fabric! There's a person in there somewhere!" It might also be useful in the case of "This pattern needs every bit of that 60" fabric width, but if I cut off the bottom 6", I can squeeze it into 56" wide fabric.
Taking the excess off the bottom maintains the angle of the side seams, and decreases the hem circumference, and is often an excellent choice for someone petite and lightly built. It tends to "look right" on the small frame.
Doing it the pattern company's way, on the lengthen/shorten line and then trueing the side seams,. maintains the original hem circumference, and tends to favor those of us with a more robust frame.
Which one is "correct" is really a design decision in many ways.
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The same thing happens, too, if you lengthen... but reversed. Your way would increase the hem circumference and maintain the side seam angle, and the lengthen/shorten line maintains the hem circumference, but changes the side seam angle.
Let's say you are dealing with an ankle-length A -line skirt, so basically a long triangle. If you lop off the bottom 6", like I used to do with my mom's patterns, you have not only shortened the skirt, but you have reduced the hem circumference. That might be a good thing if the usual impression of you in that skirt is, "too much fabric! There's a person in there somewhere!" It might also be useful in the case of "This pattern needs every bit of that 60" fabric width, but if I cut off the bottom 6", I can squeeze it into 56" wide fabric.
Taking the excess off the bottom maintains the angle of the side seams, and decreases the hem circumference, and is often an excellent choice for someone petite and lightly built. It tends to "look right" on the small frame.
Doing it the pattern company's way, on the lengthen/shorten line and then trueing the side seams,. maintains the original hem circumference, and tends to favor those of us with a more robust frame.
Which one is "correct" is really a design decision in many ways.
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The same thing happens, too, if you lengthen... but reversed. Your way would increase the hem circumference and maintain the side seam angle, and the lengthen/shorten line maintains the hem circumference, but changes the side seam angle.
Posted on: 10/11/19 9:45 PM ET
In reply to kayl
Ah....you gave me something to think about, Kayl. I am very petite and a very small frame, so maybe taking off the bottom is the correct thing to do in this case. You wrote: "That might be a good thing if the usual impression of you in that skirt is, "too much fabric! There's a person in there somewhere!"
It's good to know how to true a seam, but it is also good to know there are reasons why and why not shorten at the marks on the pattern.
So much to learn.
It's good to know how to true a seam, but it is also good to know there are reasons why and why not shorten at the marks on the pattern.
So much to learn.
Posted on: 10/11/19 10:04 PM ET
In reply to SyndiMC
You could make the two different modifications, cut them out in a medium like Swedish Tracing Paper and pin them on you to see which you like better.
Posted on: 10/12/19 1:42 AM ET
In reply to SyndiMC
I find a French curve (long "Fashion Ruler" shown on the far left in the pic) invaluable for truing curved lines. I'm 5'3" and have to shorten most garments, plus I'm an inverted triangle so have to slim down hips on everything. You use a French curve by sliding it up and down until you find the right curve to fit the situation. Make a note of the number on the ruler you used on the top and number on the bottom, and draw your line against the edge of the ruler. On the other side of the garment use the same numbers, but flip the ruler over so the wrong side of the ruler is up. This way both sides end up symmetrical because you are using the same numbers on the curve. If it's easier for you, you can do one side, fold the pattern in half vertically and trim the second side like the first side. The only time I ever cut off a hem at the bottom is if it's not tapered at all.

-- Edited on 10/12/19 at 1:45 AM --
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-- Edited on 10/12/19 at 1:45 AM --
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Sewing keeps me from falling apart at the seams!
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Posted on: 10/12/19 8:44 AM ET
In reply to SyndiMC
I usually have to lengthen, not shorten, a pattern, but I do it in 3 steps:
1. Figure out where the additional length needs to be. If possible I use the lengthen/shorten line on the pattern because it is usually placed where the shaping disturbance will be minimal, but sometimes that is not where the extra length is needed. For example, for a top, I might add a bit of length in 2 places, depending on how the shaping of the pattern (location of bust point and waist, depth of armhole) matches mine.
2. Add or subtract the length, then “true” the pattern edge by drawing a new line from a point a few inches above the adjustment to a point a few inches below the adjustment. (Iow, I would not redraw the entire pattern piece from top to bottom, just maybe 6-12 inches of it.)
3. Look at your new pattern piece and see how the shape matches the original pattern shape. If the line is distorted, smooth it out. Curved rulers can be helpful here but it can also be done by eye.
My goal in all this is to develop my ability to “see” how a pattern will fit the particular body I’m sewing for. I don’t have a natural ability here so it takes time and conscious awareness.
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1. Figure out where the additional length needs to be. If possible I use the lengthen/shorten line on the pattern because it is usually placed where the shaping disturbance will be minimal, but sometimes that is not where the extra length is needed. For example, for a top, I might add a bit of length in 2 places, depending on how the shaping of the pattern (location of bust point and waist, depth of armhole) matches mine.
2. Add or subtract the length, then “true” the pattern edge by drawing a new line from a point a few inches above the adjustment to a point a few inches below the adjustment. (Iow, I would not redraw the entire pattern piece from top to bottom, just maybe 6-12 inches of it.)
3. Look at your new pattern piece and see how the shape matches the original pattern shape. If the line is distorted, smooth it out. Curved rulers can be helpful here but it can also be done by eye.
My goal in all this is to develop my ability to “see” how a pattern will fit the particular body I’m sewing for. I don’t have a natural ability here so it takes time and conscious awareness.
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