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Member since 12/21/19
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Posted on: 4/12/20 3:26 PM ET
I always do this, and the only shirt that I wore regularly once ripped, but I thought that was from seam slippage or not enough seam allowance. Today, I was doing the usual and clipping the ends of the yoke, then I realized.. This could be a mistake. What if, this is why the back yoke ripped? is it possible? Since I am setting the sleeve, won't the new stitches from the sleeve lock the ends of the back yoke stitches together?


  
Member since 8/28/10
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Posted on: 4/13/20 10:06 AM ET
I'm not 100% clear what you're asking, but it certainly seems to me that freshening the shoulder edge of the yoke ought not to present any problem, as long as you keep it along the original seam allowance edge [i.e., not remove any of the seam allowance that would result in less width cross the back, which could then stress the sleeve]. Since the seam will be crossed by the sleeve seam, that yoke ought to sit pretty tight. You've done a nice job there.
  
Member since 11/28/15
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Posted on: 4/13/20 1:30 PM ET
In reply to genejung
Also not 100% sure what you're doing with your scissors -- are you evening up the ends of the yoke so that you don't have a stray 1/8" dipping / sticking out, or are you pre-clipping the seam allowance before stitching so you can stitch it flat more easily? The former should be fine, the latter I would not recommend.
  
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Posted on: 4/13/20 2:03 PM ET
I know it’s really bad but I am not just clipping the seam allowance. I am Evening out the edges, and sometimes am clipping more, going into the width of the yoke, just so that I could keep the Vertical edges Of the yoke perfectly straight.

I hope that clears it up better
  
Member since 5/28/11
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Posted on: 4/13/20 2:24 PM ET
In reply to genejung
I do not think that would do it but you don't have to cut it off first. If you need to you can mark your seam, sew it then trim if you want. I think your seams are coming undone because they are not wide enough. I use commercial patterns and they use 5/8" seams. After 50 years, I can sew that with eyes closed. I wouldn't use less than 1/2" seam for any wovens and I finish my seams somehow. I have a serger now so use that. I used to use a small zigzag. Flat felled seams works nicely for mens shirts but for those seams I would want a wider seam 5/8"
  
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Posted on: 4/13/20 2:28 PM ET
In reply to genejung
The vertical edge of the yoke should not be perfectly straight! It needs a curve to fit the sleeve head correctly. Straightening it shortens the back armscye seam and will make it pull, especially in a very fitted shirt, which looks to be the style you prefer. This could very well be the reason your other shirt ripped. Time to stop this bad habit.
  
Member since 7/31/06
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Posted on: 4/14/20 0:21 AM ET
If you want the end of the yoke to be completely straight, it is not necessary to do any other trimming than to clip into the seam allowance as many times, as close together as you need to. Clip it close enough, you can even get that seam line to curve the other way. Just make very sure the seam stitching line is well protected by stay stitching and clip to the stay stitching, never through. Stay stitching is absolutely essential to maintain the strength of the seam.
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Rheta
  
Member since 11/28/13
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Posted on: 4/14/20 8:09 PM ET
In reply to Marie367
Quote: Marie367
I think your seams are coming undone because they are not wide enough. I use commercial patterns and they use 5/8" seams. After 50 years, I can sew that with eyes closed. I wouldn't use less than 1/2" seam for any wovens and I finish my seams somehow. I have a serger now so use that. I used to use a small zigzag. Flat felled seams works nicely for mens shirts but for those seams I would want a wider seam 5/8"

Home sewing patterns use 5/8" seam allowances. The SAs in patterns used to make shirts in factories are much narrower, as narrow as 1/4" for the seam attaching the collar to the neckline.

If seams are coming undone it's because they're not secured correctly at the beginning and end or there's a more general problem with the stitch.
  
Member since 11/28/13
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Posted on: 4/14/20 8:11 PM ET
I'm not sure what you're asking and the photo isn't clear enough for me. If you are cutting a precisely drafted pattern with care, everything should fit together. Maybe you made modifications and didn't true the seams correctly.
  
Member since 9/1/18
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Posted on: 4/14/20 11:55 PM ET
In one of Peggy Sager's videos she says that trying to straighten out something that is uneven before you sew it together is like trimming your bangs. You'll keep finding little uneven places here and there until you've got little baby bangs. Best to just let it be.
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My personal challenge is to make 10 garments from stash Fabrics before buying any new fabric.

1. Blue striped floral sateen --> ITS Melrose Dress
2. Red, White and blue denim--> Burda 6475
3. Forest green linen blend-->McCall's 7603
4.. Black and white stripe suiting --> SW 8th Ave.
  
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