Sponsors
Sponsors
Posted on: 5/22/20 1:56 AM ET
How am I doing? Any modifications I should make?
Front:

Side:

Back:
Front:

Side:

Back:
Posted on: 5/22/20 4:43 AM ET
I would say that you need to lengthen the front of the bodice below the bust so that it is the same length as the back. When you are larger than a B-cup, the fabric in the bodice gets taken up in accommodating the bigger size.
The back looks pretty good in that you have identified your TRUE waist. So many people have a bodice that is too long and wonders why it 'pools' at the back.
------
The back looks pretty good in that you have identified your TRUE waist. So many people have a bodice that is too long and wonders why it 'pools' at the back.
------
With rights come duties and obligations
Posted on: 5/22/20 5:00 AM ET

This is what I mean by lengthening the front. You will need to add a wedge to the front bodice piece to accommodate for the fabric taken up by your bigger than average bust.
------
With rights come duties and obligations
Posted on: 5/22/20 11:30 AM ET
The bust curve looks a little high and tight on you. See the horizontal strain lines below the apex of the curve, and a bit of extra fabric above it?
I would add some ease and consider reshaping the curve.
Take a look at what looks like a vertical line of stitching at about the demiprincess position... it may be just the camera angle, and it may not be on grain, but if it does follow a warp yarn, that amount of grain distortion again says more room is needed in the lower bust cup area.
Have you put sleeves in it yet?
I would add some ease and consider reshaping the curve.
Take a look at what looks like a vertical line of stitching at about the demiprincess position... it may be just the camera angle, and it may not be on grain, but if it does follow a warp yarn, that amount of grain distortion again says more room is needed in the lower bust cup area.
Have you put sleeves in it yet?
Posted on: 5/22/20 12:40 PM ET
I understand the urge to divide and conquer, but I do think there are issues that are easier to overlook before adding a skirt (same for sleeves). Once there's a skirt you will know if the length assumptions are wrong, or if the balance is off. Half the battle is making sure you've allowed the correct lengths at the various points around the body.
Posted on: 5/22/20 8:32 PM ET
Victoria - Thank you, that illustration was helpful!
kayl - It definitely is a little tight at the bust. I've had the hardest time with the "above the apex" portion, since I seem to almost curve in there. There's a reason why my most of my tops are made with knit fabric, but I am determined to get this. I will try try lowering and reshaping the bust. It's going to be a sleeveless dress.
JNE4SL - Interesting. No sleeves, but there will be a skirt! I did notice on the skirt that the darts were closer together and slope inward. I'll try it next with the skirt attached.
Question for all - On the original line drawing, it looks like the princess seams slope inward, toward the front center body. I guess I kind of thought of princess seams as running straight down from the apex?
kayl - It definitely is a little tight at the bust. I've had the hardest time with the "above the apex" portion, since I seem to almost curve in there. There's a reason why my most of my tops are made with knit fabric, but I am determined to get this. I will try try lowering and reshaping the bust. It's going to be a sleeveless dress.
JNE4SL - Interesting. No sleeves, but there will be a skirt! I did notice on the skirt that the darts were closer together and slope inward. I'll try it next with the skirt attached.
Question for all - On the original line drawing, it looks like the princess seams slope inward, toward the front center body. I guess I kind of thought of princess seams as running straight down from the apex?
Posted on: 5/25/20 9:47 PM ET
Take Two! (It's actually like number 8, but this was the first re-do I felt was worth showing.)
So what should I do next? I see that the HBL on the side pic angles up a bit, but I'm not sure what to do about it. And my side seam is right under my shoulder/armpit, but it seems pretty far back to me, especially when compared to the seam on my pants.
Front:

Side:

Another side, showing side seam:

Back:
So what should I do next? I see that the HBL on the side pic angles up a bit, but I'm not sure what to do about it. And my side seam is right under my shoulder/armpit, but it seems pretty far back to me, especially when compared to the seam on my pants.
Front:

Side:

Another side, showing side seam:

Back:
Posted on: 5/26/20 9:33 AM ET
In reply to tunibell
The front neckline is not sitting as well as it could. I would be tempted to unpick the shoulder seams and shift the fronts laterally to see if that helps the front neckline lay flat and eliminate the pulling that runs from neck towards the underarm.
(Mark the back shoulder seam line so you can see it, Press the back shoulder seam allowance towards the front. Just move the front shoulder 1/4” out and pin it in place. Dont worry about the neckline and armhole seams no longer matching up)
You might also have a look at the seam line placement, just for aesthetics. The front princess line accentuates the fullness of the bust as it narrows in below the bust, and in the back it is very Vee shaped as well. I would redraw the lines a tidge if it was my pattern.
Your side seam looks quite far back, you can place it where you wish but I might shift it a bit to the front as well.
Is this self drafted?
Can you post a photo of your pattern? Sometimes that is very helpful.
-- Edited on 5/26/20 at 9:36 AM --
------
(Mark the back shoulder seam line so you can see it, Press the back shoulder seam allowance towards the front. Just move the front shoulder 1/4” out and pin it in place. Dont worry about the neckline and armhole seams no longer matching up)
You might also have a look at the seam line placement, just for aesthetics. The front princess line accentuates the fullness of the bust as it narrows in below the bust, and in the back it is very Vee shaped as well. I would redraw the lines a tidge if it was my pattern.
Your side seam looks quite far back, you can place it where you wish but I might shift it a bit to the front as well.
Is this self drafted?
Can you post a photo of your pattern? Sometimes that is very helpful.
-- Edited on 5/26/20 at 9:36 AM --
------
http://atailormadeit.blogspot.ca/
Re: Conquering the Bodice a (posted on 5/26/20 10:21 AM ET)
I think you can solve the wrinkles on the sides above bust by taking a fish eye dart horizontally across that area. It will remove excess fabric without touching the arms eye.
------
Absolutely loving my Janome 500e embroidery machine, very creative. Problem with all my stash for clothing!
------
Absolutely loving my Janome 500e embroidery machine, very creative. Problem with all my stash for clothing!
* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it.
Selected Reviews, Classes & Patterns







