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Moderated by Deepika
Posted on: 5/28/20 10:50 PM ET
Hi all, several times now I have accidentally cut into the fabric while using my serger. I know it happens when I try to move the fabric the way I do on the sewing machine when approaching an angle or curve. Does anyone know of a good source of information on how to handle the serger at those moments? I have done it when sewing at the point of a vee neck, or turning the fabric when sewing from a side seam to an underarm seam, and even when moving along the curve of a set in sleeve. Thanks!
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Rob
Posted on: 5/28/20 11:07 PM ET
Slow down, stop when necessary and readjust the fabric. I cut the lower leg of a pair of corduroy pants, fortunately I had enough fabric to make a design to cover it.
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Absolutely loving my Janome 500e embroidery machine, very creative. Problem with all my stash for clothing!
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Absolutely loving my Janome 500e embroidery machine, very creative. Problem with all my stash for clothing!
Posted on: 5/28/20 11:39 PM ET
In reply to RobA.
Straighten out curves. Sergers like pretty straight lines. Fabric can gather to the left side, but you want it flattish and fairly straight going into the knife.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhygJibT3AI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6OVFqgb-S8 That "clip into the corner" in the second video is great for V necks; same with the corner between side seam and underarm seam.
You've also got the distance from the knife to the needles to worry about a bit... but with a little practice, you'll catch on quickly. Straightening the edge stops that problem pretty much in its tracks.
Notice, too, that she's not cutting off big seam allowances when she's serging, just narrow little schnibbles. That really helps when dealing with curves. Over the years I've standardized my own patterns for 3/8" seam allowance for serging and gotten the proper amount to trim calibrated into my eyeballs, so I know that left needle is hitting the actual stitch line by just the amount being trimmed off.
If paper towel isn't a precious commodity where you are, may I suggest you cut some curves and practice on paper towel, since that doesn't have a bias, and doesn't want to slip away under the foot. When you're doing well with single ply, try serging two plies. And then serging a convex curve, like a sleeve head, into a concave one, like an armscye. That was probably the last skill I developed... took me the longest time, and I wound up basting the sleeve into the armscye on the sewing machine for probably a dozen garments before I was confident enough to just serge it in, rather than baste, then serge.
-- Edited on 5/28/20 at 11:40 PM --
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhygJibT3AI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6OVFqgb-S8 That "clip into the corner" in the second video is great for V necks; same with the corner between side seam and underarm seam.
You've also got the distance from the knife to the needles to worry about a bit... but with a little practice, you'll catch on quickly. Straightening the edge stops that problem pretty much in its tracks.
Notice, too, that she's not cutting off big seam allowances when she's serging, just narrow little schnibbles. That really helps when dealing with curves. Over the years I've standardized my own patterns for 3/8" seam allowance for serging and gotten the proper amount to trim calibrated into my eyeballs, so I know that left needle is hitting the actual stitch line by just the amount being trimmed off.
If paper towel isn't a precious commodity where you are, may I suggest you cut some curves and practice on paper towel, since that doesn't have a bias, and doesn't want to slip away under the foot. When you're doing well with single ply, try serging two plies. And then serging a convex curve, like a sleeve head, into a concave one, like an armscye. That was probably the last skill I developed... took me the longest time, and I wound up basting the sleeve into the armscye on the sewing machine for probably a dozen garments before I was confident enough to just serge it in, rather than baste, then serge.
-- Edited on 5/28/20 at 11:40 PM --
Posted on: 5/29/20 2:14 AM ET
Serge slowly and stop quite often to adjust the fabric layers, maybe every inch or so if on a curve.. Pay particular attention to the underneath layer(s) as it can get folded and possibly cut by the knife. When stopping, try to stop with the needle down so you don't pull the fabric when smoothing things out. Take it slowly and I'm sure you'll get the hang of it.
Posted on: 5/29/20 2:45 AM ET
In reply to RobA.
Yep, straighten out the curves like Kayl said. If it's a particularly tight curve and you're not feeling confident, disengage the knife. That will still give you the serged stitches but no cutting will happen. 
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Sewing keeps me from falling apart at the seams!
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Posted on: 5/29/20 8:43 AM ET
In reply to SewLibra
Of all the "Uh Oh" moments in sewing, this has got to be one of the worst! I'm sure we all have stories. My worst one was on an ivory satin evening gown I was making for a friend that was ALMOST completed when I took a neat slice out of the back of the bodice with the serger. I wasn't serging a tricky curve or anything, but with that slippery satin a little fold of it just caught under the knife. I think the idea of disengaging the knife is a good idea if you're working with a fabric or a seam where this might happen! You won't get the nice, clean edge you're after but you won't risk ruining your project.
The only fix I could make was to "tape" the fabric together with a piece of lightweight fusible interfacing underneath. With that slinky, light colored satin there was just no way to hide any other kind of mend. Fortunately the gown was part of a costume (not a wedding gown, thank goodness) and was also intended to be worn with a cape. And it wouldn't be washed and/or worn often enough to worry about it coming apart.
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The only fix I could make was to "tape" the fabric together with a piece of lightweight fusible interfacing underneath. With that slinky, light colored satin there was just no way to hide any other kind of mend. Fortunately the gown was part of a costume (not a wedding gown, thank goodness) and was also intended to be worn with a cape. And it wouldn't be washed and/or worn often enough to worry about it coming apart.
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RunningStitches-mkb.blogspot.com
Posted on: 5/29/20 8:56 AM ET
In reply to kayl
Great idea to practice on paper towel! Thank you!
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"This is the day that The Lord has made. I will rejoice and be glad in it!"
Building my stable one machine at a time: Viking circa 1975, Viking Sapphire 870, Bernina 930Record, Huskylock 905, Babylock: Sophia2, Evolve & Flourish(embroidery only), and finally TOL Viking Epic.
Most prized possession: Grandmother's Singer treadle machine with the drawers filled with her things, just like she left them.
Building my stable one machine at a time: Viking circa 1975, Viking Sapphire 870, Bernina 930Record, Huskylock 905, Babylock: Sophia2, Evolve & Flourish(embroidery only), and finally TOL Viking Epic.
Most prized possession: Grandmother's Singer treadle machine with the drawers filled with her things, just like she left them.
Posted on: 5/29/20 9:20 AM ET
Yep, we've all done it. Your fingers are your best friend. They can feel the underneath layer that your eyes can't see. With the serger STOPPED so you can keep said fingers intact, they can tell you when the fabric is smooth and ready to feed into the machine if you're serging slowly and stopping frequently to adjust as recommended by Gretchen and Tracy when in the situations you mention that are most likely to result in a fabric tuck in your underneath layer.
Posted on: 5/29/20 10:18 AM ET
In reply to RobA.
Agree on straightening out curves as others have recommended.
Also, I serge with the piece to be sewn on the bottom and the rest of the material above it so nothing sneaks under where I can't see.
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Also, I serge with the piece to be sewn on the bottom and the rest of the material above it so nothing sneaks under where I can't see.
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Cheers!
Posted on: 5/29/20 2:12 PM ET
In reply to lisalu
Oh no, glad you were able to patch it up! I've done that a few times too. Frustrating! 
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Sewing keeps me from falling apart at the seams!
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
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