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Posted on: 7/22/20 10:24 PM ET
I am not sure how to proceed. I have drafted a pattern for wide-legged pull-on pants with an elastic waist by copying a pair of commercially made pants I have worn for years. I made the usual adjustment that I need, which is lowering the back crotch curve. This is the simplest possible pair of pants, with each leg just one piece, so there is only the inseam and the crotch seam (so far I have not added the waistband). Each pant leg is cut, of course from the same pattern piece. When I put them, with a piece of elastic serving as a temporary waistband, the crotch feels right. But when I walk, while the right leg feels fine, the left leg pulls and creates deep folds from the knee to the crotch and I also feel it pulling across the right side of my butt. What the...? Given that the leg pieces are identical, I am baffled by having problems -- and a major one -- on only one side. So what's the diagnosis? What would cause that pulling on the left side?
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Rob
Posted on: 7/22/20 11:00 PM ET
In reply to RobA.
Are both pieces cut exactly on grain?
Posted on: 7/23/20 1:02 AM ET
In reply to kayl
Hmm, l'll check.
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Rob
Posted on: 7/23/20 1:16 AM ET
The only other suggestion I have offhand is to try to pull up or down the "side seam" position under the elastic and see if you can make the diagonals go away, or at least, lessen.
Posted on: 7/23/20 8:20 AM ET
In reply to RobA.
Quote:
But when I walk, while the right leg feels fine, the left leg pulls and creates deep folds from the knee to the crotch and I also feel it pulling across the right side of my butt. What the...?
But when I walk, while the right leg feels fine, the left leg pulls and creates deep folds from the knee to the crotch and I also feel it pulling across the right side of my butt. What the...?
The crotch seam of the front and back crotch wing is a bias seam. Different fabrics behave differently with the same pattern.
With everything else being equal, this might be the culprit. That's my non-expert guess.😊
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iPad's auto-correct is my enema.
Posted on: 7/24/20 3:14 PM ET
Thanks for your answers. I made this pair of pants as a muslin out of a piece of rayon I had had forever at the back of a drawer. I am starting another pair today, and alerted by your comments, I looked closely at this new fabric. At first I was very annoyed that the cut ends seemed to have been cut unevenly. At both ends. (Big clue there.) I watched a video about grain from Threads here and learned quite a bit. The fabric is being prewashed now while I think this through. My current concern is that the fabric is a rayon challis and it is very difficult to identify individual threads. When it comes out of the wash I will see what the edges look like, see if I can get a clue from that. If not, the video provides a suggestion on straightening the grain, though again, I worry about what impact this being a challis might have.
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Rob
Posted on: 7/24/20 3:34 PM ET
Does your pattern have a lengthwise grainline marked on it? If so, extend the grainline the full length of the pattern piece.
Measure from selvage to the upper and lower end of the grainline marking and your piece will be on the most important grain.
FWIW, I prefer not to prewash challis -- it cuts and sews better without prewashing, while the sizing is still in. Instead, I prewash a swatch and calculate shrinkage... often, there is so little, I can just cut and sew, then garment wash.
Measure from selvage to the upper and lower end of the grainline marking and your piece will be on the most important grain.
FWIW, I prefer not to prewash challis -- it cuts and sews better without prewashing, while the sizing is still in. Instead, I prewash a swatch and calculate shrinkage... often, there is so little, I can just cut and sew, then garment wash.
Posted on: 7/24/20 3:47 PM ET
In reply to kayl
Oh, Kayl, I wish I had read this piece of wisdom before making my recent top! I literally pinned my fabric together before laying it out to cut so that the pieces would match. I thought I would make it easy on myself cutting out the matching skirt (nearly finished), but the pieces came out all wonky anyway. I now letting the skirt hand for a couple days as if I had cut on the bias, so at least the hem will be even.
Posted on: 7/24/20 3:51 PM ET
In reply to Tanager
Oh, heck, I'm sorry to hear this. Challis and other soft fabrics cut even better if you do the paper underlay method I learned from Connie Crawford. I'm ashamed to say how much better my garments sewed after I learned that trick.. and I'd been sewing 40 years at that point!
But even without an underlay, leaving the sizing in the fabric is a big help in accurate cutting.
But even without an underlay, leaving the sizing in the fabric is a big help in accurate cutting.
Posted on: 7/25/20 2:21 AM ET
In reply to kayl
Very helpful, thanks. I’ll remember next time not to prewash challis.
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Rob
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