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Posted on: 9/8/20 11:37 AM ET
I usually know what size pattern to choose in the Big 4 and what standard adjustments I need to make. But in indie patterns, it's much more difficult. Measurements alone don't seem to do it. I seem to be swimming in them, especially at the neckline and upper chest. I've noticed that in some indie patterns, the neckline is the same for every size- its just the side seams and length that move. That won't work! Not everyone has the same size neck and shoulders. So is there a reliable guide or system to choosing a size in an indie pattern? Or do you muslin everything?
I'm asking because I'm working on developing a TNT woven top pattern. I want a bodice, sleeves and a neckline I can change. Something that can be worn on its own or under a topper. I've got some TNT t shirt and knit tops that work. But these woven tops have me pulling my hair out. The chosen size from an indie designer will work in a knit, but not in a woven. I know I will have to do an FBA- no problem. But deciding which size to start from is not easy to determine.
So I'd like to hear how others choose a size for indie patterns. Thanks!
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I'm asking because I'm working on developing a TNT woven top pattern. I want a bodice, sleeves and a neckline I can change. Something that can be worn on its own or under a topper. I've got some TNT t shirt and knit tops that work. But these woven tops have me pulling my hair out. The chosen size from an indie designer will work in a knit, but not in a woven. I know I will have to do an FBA- no problem. But deciding which size to start from is not easy to determine.
So I'd like to hear how others choose a size for indie patterns. Thanks!
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tcsewhat
Posted on: 9/8/20 11:47 AM ET
In reply to TC Sew What
Kind of by definition, there will be no answer that works for all indies. Some have very reliable fit, some don't. But like all pattern companies they should work off a block, so once you figure out your adjustments, the same should work across patterns for that brand. Their published size charts should be correct, but often the point of interest, say neck width isn't officially reported. What's in the published size chart varies by brand, too. If it's really essential, you may have to measure the pattern. Fitting knits is a little more forgiving, but in theory you should wear the same size in a knit or woven from the same company.
Is there a specific company or pattern you're already considering or working on? Are you looking for recommendations?
Is there a specific company or pattern you're already considering or working on? Are you looking for recommendations?
Posted on: 9/8/20 12:16 PM ET
In reply to TC Sew What
With indie patterns there is much more to consider. Some indies are geared toward specific body types. Some indies are designed by people who understand pattern drafting and the human body while others are drawn by less well schooled designers.
It’s helpful to read what is said on the indie pattern home page. It’s also useful to carefully read the pattern description. Then, check to see what sort of photos are available for the made up garment. Some also have review comments. I find the PR reviews for indies to be useful in determining whether a pattern company is going to work for my body type.
The reality is that a pattern, regardless of source, is designed to fit certain general parameters. If you fall into that general description, your chances of achieving a reasonable fit are better but you still are apt to need some adjustments. There are a plethora of indies but you have to do your homework.
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It’s helpful to read what is said on the indie pattern home page. It’s also useful to carefully read the pattern description. Then, check to see what sort of photos are available for the made up garment. Some also have review comments. I find the PR reviews for indies to be useful in determining whether a pattern company is going to work for my body type.
The reality is that a pattern, regardless of source, is designed to fit certain general parameters. If you fall into that general description, your chances of achieving a reasonable fit are better but you still are apt to need some adjustments. There are a plethora of indies but you have to do your homework.
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"Be kind whenever possible. It is always possible." Dalai Lama
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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin
"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown
“Be curious, not judgmental.” Ted Lasso
Posted on: 9/8/20 12:17 PM ET
In reply to JNE4SL
Right now, I working on the Scout Tee from Grainline. I've used some of their patterns before and had success. My measurements put me in a 16. I used a 14 and tapered out to the 16 at the bust and hips. But the 14 was still too big in the neck and shoulders. If I do the "substitute the high bust for the full bust", I'd be in a 12. So I'll try that.
I've already given up on some indies because the fit is not good, they don't use pattern markings and their instructions are poor. Won't mention them here.
I can do flat pattern measurement. I will just need to do my own upper chest measurements to go by. If I have that standard, I should be good.
But yes, if anyone has a basic top that they love the fit of, I'd love to know.
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I've already given up on some indies because the fit is not good, they don't use pattern markings and their instructions are poor. Won't mention them here.
I can do flat pattern measurement. I will just need to do my own upper chest measurements to go by. If I have that standard, I should be good.
But yes, if anyone has a basic top that they love the fit of, I'd love to know.
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tcsewhat
Posted on: 9/8/20 1:00 PM ET
In reply to TC Sew What
TC Sew What, I personally would love to know which indies have fitting problems, no markings, and poor instructions! If it's a free pattern that's one thing, but if I'm paying for someone to have done this work then it should be a quality product. Some people seem to think it's unkind to critique the indies, but I think it's a real disservice to other sewists to hide these problems. Pattern Review exists to provide pattern reviews! Please review these patterns honestly.
Posted on: 9/8/20 5:26 PM ET
In reply to LauraLexington
Well said. I just purchased several indie patterns and I tried to do my research by perusing the reviews to see if prospective patterns might work for me. Indie patterns are usually not inexpensive and I rely on everyone's expertise to at least point me in the right direction. Please be transparent as to why a pattern may or may not work for you. You are doing us all a valuable service.
Posted on: 9/8/20 5:34 PM ET
This is the kind of question I joined Pattern Review for. When I look at reviews for a given pattern, I try to find a reviewer whose body type is near mine. If I can't, I read a review to see if the pattern worked for that person. For example, I am not a pear. If a pear writes in a review that the pattern fit right out of the packet, I know that pattern is not for me. That's what I do with Big 4 and Indies, both.
Posted on: 9/8/20 7:34 PM ET
In reply to mehndi
Many people have been attacked for posting unfavorable comments on some popular independent pattern companies. Some brands have loyal followers and they will leap on you if you don't like their favorite patterns. I used to be very active in ASG and interacted directly with many designers. Some had reputations for going after customers who reviewed them poorly, trying to portray the customers as ignorant. So I've just walked away.
BUT I totally understand where you all are coming from. That is why I come to PR too. I usually read reviews before I cut out a pattern. I also work full time, so my sewing time is limited. So I often walk away from patterns that don't work for me and never finish them. I can see where my experience with those UFOs would be helpful to others. And thinking about it, a lack of reviews for a pattern that's been around for a while should be a huge red flag.
So just to comment on 2 pattern companies: Silhouette Patterns are well made- but they fit a very specific figure, much like the designer herself. Those long french darts don't work on short people. So I don't use them at all. The designer is one to answer your questions like "why don't you know this?" which I find rude.
I've had good luck with Hot Patterns for knit tops. But for wovens and knit dresses, there aren't enough markings, or markings are missing. So I am reluctant to try jackets, pants etc from this company. The patterns are made for a taller thicker figure than mine and I can't get some of them to work for me. This is another designer who blows off comments and questions like the sewist is ignorant.
I'm digging out my fit books tonight, taking some measurements and trying again with a basic woven t pattern. Since I won't be back in the office for a while. I can take my time and work on producing a TNT pattern. Not having anywhere to go and wear new clothes gives me lots of time to puzzle this out.
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BUT I totally understand where you all are coming from. That is why I come to PR too. I usually read reviews before I cut out a pattern. I also work full time, so my sewing time is limited. So I often walk away from patterns that don't work for me and never finish them. I can see where my experience with those UFOs would be helpful to others. And thinking about it, a lack of reviews for a pattern that's been around for a while should be a huge red flag.
So just to comment on 2 pattern companies: Silhouette Patterns are well made- but they fit a very specific figure, much like the designer herself. Those long french darts don't work on short people. So I don't use them at all. The designer is one to answer your questions like "why don't you know this?" which I find rude.
I've had good luck with Hot Patterns for knit tops. But for wovens and knit dresses, there aren't enough markings, or markings are missing. So I am reluctant to try jackets, pants etc from this company. The patterns are made for a taller thicker figure than mine and I can't get some of them to work for me. This is another designer who blows off comments and questions like the sewist is ignorant.
I'm digging out my fit books tonight, taking some measurements and trying again with a basic woven t pattern. Since I won't be back in the office for a while. I can take my time and work on producing a TNT pattern. Not having anywhere to go and wear new clothes gives me lots of time to puzzle this out.
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tcsewhat
Posted on: 9/8/20 7:44 PM ET
Most of the indies have a ton of tester photos. I skim the photos the cute 20-somethings, but search for the older, plus size ladies. If I'm lucky I find one with a similar body shape to mine. If I don't see any...then that's a red flag.
Since your end goal is working towards creating a TNT for tops, have you considered creating a sloper that's drafted to your measurements?
Lekala has 2 slopers for wovens (one with a 2 piece sleeve), and a princess seam sloper for stretch woven or very stable knit ( 5-10% stretch). In the interest of creating a garment to compare to other patterns with little monetary cost, it might be worth a try. I would ignore the ones that say 'exclusive' since they draft from standard measures.
If you go try it, be sure to make use of the free pattern previews to check the pattern draft. The outline of the pattern drafts on a grid that with 10 cm squares ( roughly 4 in.). Look for any major distortions and use the grid to get a rough estimate of the pattern measurements with a little ease included. If the preview indicates changes are still needed, you can start using the fit options one by one to see if they help match shoulder slope, bust height, etc. All at no cost free previews until you reach what you believe will work. Be sure to add seam allowances if you want them to your final order, they are absent by default.
Shel
Since your end goal is working towards creating a TNT for tops, have you considered creating a sloper that's drafted to your measurements?
Lekala has 2 slopers for wovens (one with a 2 piece sleeve), and a princess seam sloper for stretch woven or very stable knit ( 5-10% stretch). In the interest of creating a garment to compare to other patterns with little monetary cost, it might be worth a try. I would ignore the ones that say 'exclusive' since they draft from standard measures.
If you go try it, be sure to make use of the free pattern previews to check the pattern draft. The outline of the pattern drafts on a grid that with 10 cm squares ( roughly 4 in.). Look for any major distortions and use the grid to get a rough estimate of the pattern measurements with a little ease included. If the preview indicates changes are still needed, you can start using the fit options one by one to see if they help match shoulder slope, bust height, etc. All at no cost free previews until you reach what you believe will work. Be sure to add seam allowances if you want them to your final order, they are absent by default.
Shel
Posted on: 9/8/20 9:05 PM ET
Didn’t we have a thread awhile back which discussed the body types indie patterns are geared toward? If we didn’t, we should.
When I’m looking at indie patterns for a particular style I like, it would be helpful to know how most of them are designed so I could rule out immediately the ones not particularly designed for my body type. I could rule out fairly quickly pants designed for a pear shape body, for example. I know patterns could be altered, but with so many choices, why not start out with something geared to your own shape as much as possible? 🤔
When I’m looking at indie patterns for a particular style I like, it would be helpful to know how most of them are designed so I could rule out immediately the ones not particularly designed for my body type. I could rule out fairly quickly pants designed for a pear shape body, for example. I know patterns could be altered, but with so many choices, why not start out with something geared to your own shape as much as possible? 🤔
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