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Moderated by EleanorSews
Posted on: 9/24/20 11:40 PM ET
Just wanted to check I'm doing the process right before cutting into my skirt. So it's a skirt that is just a bit longer at the back which I definitely need to compensate for my larger rear. 
I figured aligning the hems would be the correct thing to do? So that when the waistband is aligned again the front will be a litter shorter?
Also the fabric of this skirt is one that refuses to be ironed down which is making hemming more of a challenge, if there are any tips for that? I can still get the job done with pins but if there's an easier way please do share. Thank you again for everyones help!

I figured aligning the hems would be the correct thing to do? So that when the waistband is aligned again the front will be a litter shorter?Also the fabric of this skirt is one that refuses to be ironed down which is making hemming more of a challenge, if there are any tips for that? I can still get the job done with pins but if there's an easier way please do share. Thank you again for everyones help!
Posted on: 9/25/20 0:07 AM ET
In reply to Lonely Tears
Let me make sure I understand... the skirt hem is supposed to be parallel to the floor, but is actually longer in back? It wasn't intended to be a high-low hem skirt?
If that is true, I would consider pinning a tuck just below the back waistband to level the skirt hem, and see how the skirt hangs now. If it looks good, I would rip the back waistband, remove the amount of the tuck from the top of the skirt, then sew the waistband back on.
Doing the alteration from the waist keeps the grainlines straight and the skirt hanging correctly.
If that is true, I would consider pinning a tuck just below the back waistband to level the skirt hem, and see how the skirt hangs now. If it looks good, I would rip the back waistband, remove the amount of the tuck from the top of the skirt, then sew the waistband back on.
Doing the alteration from the waist keeps the grainlines straight and the skirt hanging correctly.
Posted on: 9/25/20 0:36 AM ET
The hem should be parallel to the floor, unless you're going for the high-low look. The most foolproof way to achieve that is to make the skirt with a generous hem allowance, put it on your dress form, and measure up from the floor with a yardstick to your desired hem line. Put a pin in the skirt or make a chalk mark at that spot, then continue measuring and marking all around the skirt. Turn up the hem along the line formed by the pins/marks and hem in place as you usually do.
Or if you have a human helper, wear the skirt and have them do the measuring and marking -- that would be even better if, like many people, your waist is not parallel to the floor but tilts forward or backward.
Or if you have a human helper, wear the skirt and have them do the measuring and marking -- that would be even better if, like many people, your waist is not parallel to the floor but tilts forward or backward.
Posted on: 9/25/20 0:40 AM ET
For making the hem hold a crease, I suggest steam pressing it, then while it's still hot and damp from the steam, put something heavy like a big book on it and let it sit for a few minutes until the fabric cools down.
Posted on: 9/25/20 3:16 AM ET
Sorry, I must have explained poorly (I'm also autistic and have trouble understanding). It's an A-line maxi skirt I'm wanting to be just below knee length. It looks level with the floor when you wear it, but when I lay it flat to cut with the waistband aligned straight the front finishes shorter than the back?
Here's a link to the skirt while it's still being sold if it helps - https://www.kmart.com.au/product/a-line-maxi-skirt/3148814
I already cut and hemmed it once but hubby says it's a little wonky so I'd like to make sure I do it properly while I still have the extra fabric left on it.
Here's a link to the skirt while it's still being sold if it helps - https://www.kmart.com.au/product/a-line-maxi-skirt/3148814
I already cut and hemmed it once but hubby says it's a little wonky so I'd like to make sure I do it properly while I still have the extra fabric left on it.
Posted on: 9/25/20 8:53 AM ET

It doesn't seem very uneven on the product image, might just be the fabric stretched out at some point.
If you have a large/round butt, IMO, it's best to get help from someone (your husband) to pin it all around the hem while you are wearing the skirt.
The numbers will vary (a big butt requires more fabric to go over it) but the important thing, IMO, is that the skirt *looks* even on your body.
Posted on: 9/25/20 9:36 AM ET
In reply to lakaribane
Quote: lakaribane
The numbers will vary (a big butt requires more fabric to go over it) but the important thing, IMO, is that the skirt *looks* even on your body.
The numbers will vary (a big butt requires more fabric to go over it) but the important thing, IMO, is that the skirt *looks* even on your body.
Exactly. If you have pronounced curves, you need to tweak the hem while it's on your body. I get so annoyed when I see pattern directions that tell sewers to hem garments without them having been put on the wearer first. The same principle applies to having a slightly higher hip or a shorter leg or uneven shoulders and arms: your pants legs and sleeves need to be adjusted so they hang evenly. Most of us have some slight asymmetry.
Posted on: 9/25/20 9:50 AM ET
In reply to Lonely Tears
Quote: Lonely Tears
Also the fabric of this skirt is one that refuses to be ironed down which is making hemming more of a challenge, if there are any tips for that? I can still get the job done with pins but if there's an easier way please do share.
Also the fabric of this skirt is one that refuses to be ironed down which is making hemming more of a challenge, if there are any tips for that? I can still get the job done with pins but if there's an easier way please do share.
I don't think you should fight the fabric with the iron. Put the skirt on and have someone pin the hem until it's even. If you don't have someone, buy a skirt marker like this. I'm not recommending this particular model, it's just an example. You can also find older versions that allow the skirt to be pinned in place.
There are different views in regard to skirt and dress hems. I used to think they were always supposed to knife-sharp, but when I started taking sewing classes at a fashion design school I was told that a softer hem is the sign of a nicer garment. With fancier clothes, there were things we did to avoid a sharp hem, such as never ending any hem interfacing or stiffener right at the fold, instead, we extended the product slightly beyond the fold so the hem would remain soft.
You may be having difficulty pressing the hem because of the fabric -- polyester and blends don't press as well as cotton, linen, and wool -- or there may be a little bit of bulk. If you pin the hem, you may be able to ease in a little bit of fabric if that's the issue.
It also helps after pinning the hem just so to hand baste it in place. Place the stitches in the hem allowance well away from where you'll be stitching, 1/2" - 1". Use a hemming or catchstitch, catching only a thread or two on the main skirt. The hem will be virtually invisible. If you don't want to do it by hand, you can try using the blindstitch if you have one.
-- Edited on 9/25/20 at 9:52 AM --
Posted on: 9/26/20 0:42 AM ET
In reply to pointpatou
What a strange device! While I don't want the extra clutter I think I could really benefit from one of these. Thank you for sharing, I doubt I would have ever found out about this invention otherwise. It sounds like my best bet to be honest.
Wish me luck. I always seem to need lots of it even for the simplest tasks in sewing.
Wish me luck. I always seem to need lots of it even for the simplest tasks in sewing.
Posted on: 9/26/20 8:05 AM ET
In reply to Lonely Tears
the older versions actually work a lot easier than that new fangled thing, the kind with the bulb. The bulb is supposed to help you mark the skirt yourself...but it's awkward.
You really need a helper to mark a hem. helper does not need to know how to sew. Just needs some patience and the ability to be accurate. You do not even need a fancy device...you just need some longish stick kind of thing. Like a yardstick, a broom stick, a piece of lumber, plant stakes---whatever you have around. Here is the basic method.
You wear the garment. with your undies, and with your shoes that you will wear with the garment. You stand there, normal posture. If you can stand on something slightly higher up it helps the other person measure: small step stool is ideal. make sure your "stand" is not tilted at all...you need to be on a really flat surface. The measuring surface also needs to be flat, so don't do this on a rug or outside on grass, for example.
Helper takes your stick thing, puts it vertically, setting it flat on the floor and you (both) decide where you want the hem (the fold of the hem, finished hem) to end up. Then helper marks that with a horizontally placed pin. Also mark your stick thing, with tape or pencil, or anyway that works for you, to show that hem distance as measured from the floor. Helper can move around you, or you can turn slowly and helper places marks/pins about every 2 inches or so all around the bottom edge of the garment. Check again by turning around slowly and seeing if the marks fall in about the same place, adjust as necessary.
Now, you take off the garment and get back to sewing. (Helper gets massive praise for doing a good job, to ensure that helper will do it again next time.) the pin markings are the fold line for your hem, which you can press in, or mark with chalk or whatever you like. Then, decide on how deep a hem you want and mark that distance, measuring evenly from your first line. (This second line is lower on the garment than your fold line...obviously.) That turns into your CUT line, so you can trim the fabric, finish the edge using the method you prefer, and sew up your hem.
These markings may look fairly odd when it lays out flat, but it will ALWAYS work when the garment is on your body. Bodies are very uneven...but you want a hem that ends up parallel to the floor. This method works. An even hem makes your body look better, too...a magic way to improve posture!
-- Edited on 9/26/20 at 8:08 AM --
You really need a helper to mark a hem. helper does not need to know how to sew. Just needs some patience and the ability to be accurate. You do not even need a fancy device...you just need some longish stick kind of thing. Like a yardstick, a broom stick, a piece of lumber, plant stakes---whatever you have around. Here is the basic method.
You wear the garment. with your undies, and with your shoes that you will wear with the garment. You stand there, normal posture. If you can stand on something slightly higher up it helps the other person measure: small step stool is ideal. make sure your "stand" is not tilted at all...you need to be on a really flat surface. The measuring surface also needs to be flat, so don't do this on a rug or outside on grass, for example.
Helper takes your stick thing, puts it vertically, setting it flat on the floor and you (both) decide where you want the hem (the fold of the hem, finished hem) to end up. Then helper marks that with a horizontally placed pin. Also mark your stick thing, with tape or pencil, or anyway that works for you, to show that hem distance as measured from the floor. Helper can move around you, or you can turn slowly and helper places marks/pins about every 2 inches or so all around the bottom edge of the garment. Check again by turning around slowly and seeing if the marks fall in about the same place, adjust as necessary.
Now, you take off the garment and get back to sewing. (Helper gets massive praise for doing a good job, to ensure that helper will do it again next time.) the pin markings are the fold line for your hem, which you can press in, or mark with chalk or whatever you like. Then, decide on how deep a hem you want and mark that distance, measuring evenly from your first line. (This second line is lower on the garment than your fold line...obviously.) That turns into your CUT line, so you can trim the fabric, finish the edge using the method you prefer, and sew up your hem.
These markings may look fairly odd when it lays out flat, but it will ALWAYS work when the garment is on your body. Bodies are very uneven...but you want a hem that ends up parallel to the floor. This method works. An even hem makes your body look better, too...a magic way to improve posture!
-- Edited on 9/26/20 at 8:08 AM --
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