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Wrong side vs right side of fabric/pattern pieces. (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 10/3/20 8:26 AM ET
In the big 4 patterns ive used they have those charts about how to lay your pattern pieces onto fabric for cutting.
Recently i downloaded an independent free pattern ( https://mellysews.com/free-pattern-links/ ) for knit pajamas.
The pattern doesnt tell me how to lay the pieces for cutting. And for my test garments that didnt really matter because i was using a jersey that looked close enough the same on both sides.
But now im using the "real" fabric and it has a clear right and wrong side. And i didnt even think about it till i had already cut out the back piece of the shirt. I folded the fabric right sides together and placed the pattern piece right side up. Is that right? If i cut the remaining pieces the same everything should line up correctly?
Or is there a general rule about the pattern pieces facing up or down?
Recently i downloaded an independent free pattern ( https://mellysews.com/free-pattern-links/ ) for knit pajamas.
The pattern doesnt tell me how to lay the pieces for cutting. And for my test garments that didnt really matter because i was using a jersey that looked close enough the same on both sides.
But now im using the "real" fabric and it has a clear right and wrong side. And i didnt even think about it till i had already cut out the back piece of the shirt. I folded the fabric right sides together and placed the pattern piece right side up. Is that right? If i cut the remaining pieces the same everything should line up correctly?
Or is there a general rule about the pattern pieces facing up or down?
Posted on: 10/3/20 8:40 AM ET
you have that done correctly- be sure the grain lines are correct
-- Edited on 10/3/20 at 8:41 AM --
-- Edited on 10/3/20 at 8:41 AM --
Posted on: 10/3/20 8:43 AM ET
Thank you!! I can continue then
Btw, i think our dogs are cousins. Lol

Btw, i think our dogs are cousins. Lol
Posted on: 10/3/20 8:50 AM ET
In reply to TheRusticRebel
I don’t myself use those cutting layouts very often, because I like the challenge of trying to figure out the most economical use of fabric. 🙂. It is often simplest to cut fabric when it is folded, either right or wrong sides together, doesn’t matter.
Sometimes it is better for fabric usage to fold the fabric in a different place than the middle. For a tshirt I often do this. Fold in just the width of the front, then lay the front on that fold. Do the same on the other side for the back.
You can also cut the fabric while flat. This might mean creating a new, full-size pattern piece if the original requires placement on a fold. Flat cutting can help you to squeeze out more pieces when you don’t have quite enough fabric for your pattern.
The main things to remember are:
1. grain — make sure your pattern grain lines are parallel to the fabric grain
2. fabric orientation or direction — most of the time I cut my main pieces using the same orientation, ie “with nap”, if I can. It is not always necessary, but often enough there are differences in pattern or shading if pieces are cut in opposing directions.
3. be mindful of the piece you are cutting out and how it fits into the pattern. When you’re doing your own layout, or you’re cutting some pieces singly instead of on folded fabric, it’s very easy to cut wrongly, say 2 right sleeves instead of a right and a left.
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Sometimes it is better for fabric usage to fold the fabric in a different place than the middle. For a tshirt I often do this. Fold in just the width of the front, then lay the front on that fold. Do the same on the other side for the back.
You can also cut the fabric while flat. This might mean creating a new, full-size pattern piece if the original requires placement on a fold. Flat cutting can help you to squeeze out more pieces when you don’t have quite enough fabric for your pattern.
The main things to remember are:
1. grain — make sure your pattern grain lines are parallel to the fabric grain
2. fabric orientation or direction — most of the time I cut my main pieces using the same orientation, ie “with nap”, if I can. It is not always necessary, but often enough there are differences in pattern or shading if pieces are cut in opposing directions.
3. be mindful of the piece you are cutting out and how it fits into the pattern. When you’re doing your own layout, or you’re cutting some pieces singly instead of on folded fabric, it’s very easy to cut wrongly, say 2 right sleeves instead of a right and a left.
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Posted on: 10/3/20 8:58 AM ET
In reply to TheRusticRebel
As long as pattern pieces are symmetrical, and you cut on the grain, you can overlook layout instructions, (or just not consider them in this case because none were provided) and probably be okay, but the best idea each and every time is to think through each piece and how it should be laid out for grain, any print or pattern on the fabric itself, directional nap (such as velvets, which have a surface texture) and right and wrong side. Symmetrical means the right and left sides are identical to one another. Many pattern pieces are symmetrical, but some aren’t - it depends on the style of the design. Wrap dresses and tops, for example, have differently shaped pieces for the right side of the body than they do for the left.
It is best to layout all pieces together to make sure you have enough fabric before you make one cut. That way too, if you don’t have enough fabric to do a proper layout and cut, you have time to make decisions that will help you to save the project as planned, or to change your plans. You might manipulate the layout, you might buy more fabric, you might substitute other fabric for some pieces of the pattern, etc. layout can become a fun part of the process if you take your time, and thereby allow yourself the luxury of creative decisions.
If it makes you feel any better, I have been sewing for many years and still occasionally forget to think through the process and check all of those things. Just yesterday, I cut a few pieces with the pattern piece face down (not typical, they are usually cut face up unless asymmetrical), but they were okay. The day before that, I cut two layers when I only needed one of something. And the day before that, I cut two pieces when I needed four and had to drag everything back to the cutting table to get two more. Sometimes, I just want to sew already! Most times I catch myself in time, as you have, and then proceed to be more cautious. Most times, I just get lucky.
It is best to layout all pieces together to make sure you have enough fabric before you make one cut. That way too, if you don’t have enough fabric to do a proper layout and cut, you have time to make decisions that will help you to save the project as planned, or to change your plans. You might manipulate the layout, you might buy more fabric, you might substitute other fabric for some pieces of the pattern, etc. layout can become a fun part of the process if you take your time, and thereby allow yourself the luxury of creative decisions.
If it makes you feel any better, I have been sewing for many years and still occasionally forget to think through the process and check all of those things. Just yesterday, I cut a few pieces with the pattern piece face down (not typical, they are usually cut face up unless asymmetrical), but they were okay. The day before that, I cut two layers when I only needed one of something. And the day before that, I cut two pieces when I needed four and had to drag everything back to the cutting table to get two more. Sometimes, I just want to sew already! Most times I catch myself in time, as you have, and then proceed to be more cautious. Most times, I just get lucky.
Posted on: 10/3/20 9:13 AM ET
Thanks everyone. I do pay close attention to my grain lines. For this pattern i did like pp and just folded over the parts i needed on the fold so it gave me just enough for the front and then the back. I was able to use just about half a yard of my 2 yards of fabric. i still have pants to do.
Onto the sewing!
Onto the sewing!
Posted on: 10/3/20 9:57 AM ET
In reply to TheRusticRebel
I am a fan of cutting on a single layer, pattern pieces right side up, to ensure the pieces are on grain and to save fabric. You want to always be sure the grainline marked on the pattern (a long straight arrow typically) lines up exactly with the selvage of the fabric. Or if you want to cut across the grain for some reason, the pattern piece grainline needs to be at exactly 90 degrees from the selvage. A T-square is very useful in this case.
When cutting on a single layer, you may have to flip over some pattern pieces unless they are symmetrical. For example, you cut one sleeve with the pattern piece right side up and the second sleeve right side down - that way you get a "right" and a "left" sleeve.
I like to cut with the fabric wrong side up so that my pattern notches and markings end up on the wrong side of the fabric. When working with prints, however, right side up is usually better so I can judge print placement.
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When cutting on a single layer, you may have to flip over some pattern pieces unless they are symmetrical. For example, you cut one sleeve with the pattern piece right side up and the second sleeve right side down - that way you get a "right" and a "left" sleeve.
I like to cut with the fabric wrong side up so that my pattern notches and markings end up on the wrong side of the fabric. When working with prints, however, right side up is usually better so I can judge print placement.
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Cheers!
Posted on: 10/3/20 7:26 PM ET
In reply to mhk
Quote: mhk
You can also cut the fabric while flat. This might mean creating a new, full-size pattern piece if the original requires placement on a fold. Flat cutting can help you to squeeze out more pieces when you don’t have quite enough fabric for your pattern.
2. fabric orientation or direction — most of the time I cut my main pieces using the same orientation, ie “with nap”, if I can. It is not always necessary, but often enough there are differences in pattern or shading if pieces are cut in opposing directions.
You can also cut the fabric while flat. This might mean creating a new, full-size pattern piece if the original requires placement on a fold. Flat cutting can help you to squeeze out more pieces when you don’t have quite enough fabric for your pattern.
2. fabric orientation or direction — most of the time I cut my main pieces using the same orientation, ie “with nap”, if I can. It is not always necessary, but often enough there are differences in pattern or shading if pieces are cut in opposing directions.
I agree with your suggestions and add:
It's easy to make full pattern. You take the pattern piece that was supposed to be put on the fold and pin it to the fold of a large piece of paper, transfer the markings, and cut it out.
I had a shading problem once with a solid cotton that I thought looked the same when held upside down. Ever since then I use the same orientation for all the pieces, certainly for any pieces that will be on the outside.
Posted on: 10/3/20 7:34 PM ET
In reply to shoes15
Quote: shoes15
You want to always be sure the grainline marked on the pattern (a long straight arrow typically) lines up exactly with the selvage of the fabric.
You want to always be sure the grainline marked on the pattern (a long straight arrow typically) lines up exactly with the selvage of the fabric.
On longer pieces, I was taught to take a ruler and pencil and extend the grainline on the pattern because it's often not long enough to ensure that the full piece is on grain. I usually measure the grainline from the selvedge in three places, the ends of the grainline, and the middle. If you use a clear plastic ruler, you can place it on the selvedge, hold down the end, and create a hinge that allows the pattern grainline to be slid into place under the correct line of the ruler. But layout always takes some time.
Posted on: 10/3/20 7:40 PM ET
In reply to pointpatou
Yes I was taught also to measure that long arrow for straight of grain several places along the arrow.
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Cheers!
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