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Moderated by EleanorSews
Posted on: 10/4/20 9:48 AM ET
I am making a lightweight rayon challis dress with a rayon challis lining, and I would like to try out using stay tape for the first time instead of stay stitching. I still have a lot of questions at this point even though I feel like I've watched a million youtube videos on how to use it!
Should I use woven or non-woven? I was thinking non-woven as it would be better at preventing any stretching.
I know I should use in on the neckline but should I use it on the armholes and/or shoulder seams? The bodice is lined and it has non-lined long sleeves.
Do I use it on the dress fabric and the lining, or just the dress fabric?
Some tutorials say to place it on the stitching line, some have it in the seam allowance, and some have it more on the inside of the stitching line. I'm clueless on where to place it.
Many thanks in advance to anyone with knowledge of this! Despite the challenges I'm excited to be trying something new.
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Should I use woven or non-woven? I was thinking non-woven as it would be better at preventing any stretching.
I know I should use in on the neckline but should I use it on the armholes and/or shoulder seams? The bodice is lined and it has non-lined long sleeves.
Do I use it on the dress fabric and the lining, or just the dress fabric?
Some tutorials say to place it on the stitching line, some have it in the seam allowance, and some have it more on the inside of the stitching line. I'm clueless on where to place it.
Many thanks in advance to anyone with knowledge of this! Despite the challenges I'm excited to be trying something new.
------
Kate
Posted on: 10/5/20 1:30 AM ET
In reply to violetandrose
There are probably as many opinions as you have questions, so I'll just tell you what I do. I sew lots of rayon challis, it's my favorite fabric as far as drape and comfort especially in warm weather. I only had one rayon (a rayon poplin actually) that was see-through so I lined it on the top I made from it. Everything else I didn't line because I live in hot weather and wouldn't want to change the drape anyway. Just personal preference.
Generally speaking, if your lining is stable you probably don't need a stay tape. If not, use stay tape on the fashion fabric only. Two layers will be too stiff. I use Design Plus fusible stay tape and have it in both straight and bias. Straight for the shoulder seams and bias for curved necklines and V-necks. I never stabilize the armholes. They will have either a band/binding or facing and I think a stiff armhole would be uncomfortable. You do need the fabric to move with you there. Design Plus is a woven and you're right it prevents stretching. I use Pellon Knit-N-Stable for softer stabilization on knits and even on some wovens if I want a gentle support.
I place my shoulder and neckline stay tape on the stitching line as seen below from a dress I made. Again though, no lining. Hopefully someone who lines challis will respond!

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Generally speaking, if your lining is stable you probably don't need a stay tape. If not, use stay tape on the fashion fabric only. Two layers will be too stiff. I use Design Plus fusible stay tape and have it in both straight and bias. Straight for the shoulder seams and bias for curved necklines and V-necks. I never stabilize the armholes. They will have either a band/binding or facing and I think a stiff armhole would be uncomfortable. You do need the fabric to move with you there. Design Plus is a woven and you're right it prevents stretching. I use Pellon Knit-N-Stable for softer stabilization on knits and even on some wovens if I want a gentle support.
I place my shoulder and neckline stay tape on the stitching line as seen below from a dress I made. Again though, no lining. Hopefully someone who lines challis will respond!

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Sewing keeps me from falling apart at the seams!
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Posted on: 10/5/20 5:30 AM ET
In reply to violetandrose
Hi violetrose. SewLibra gave you some good tips, but I personally would stabilize the armholes. I sew with rayon a lot as well and find that if I don’t staystitch those early in construction, the opening tends to elongate. This might be okay with sleeves, as they will tend to extend similarly; but for something sleeveless, you may find the resulting opening too low. I have recently considered using a stay-tape/interfacing as well in lieu of staystitching, but haven’t tried it yet.
One consideration for a lining: if they are both rayon then the will both grow long. I would consider at least staystitching the shoulders, neckline and armholes of the lining and using a stay tape type product on those areas in the outer garment. Hope this helps.
One consideration for a lining: if they are both rayon then the will both grow long. I would consider at least staystitching the shoulders, neckline and armholes of the lining and using a stay tape type product on those areas in the outer garment. Hope this helps.
Posted on: 10/5/20 1:56 PM ET
In reply to CodyMoran
I staystitch the armholes, I just don't use the tape there.
I've learned over the years not to handle fabrics like that too much during the process and that helps too. Once the band or facing is in place I haven't had a problem with armholes stretching out. At least not yet...
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I've learned over the years not to handle fabrics like that too much during the process and that helps too. Once the band or facing is in place I haven't had a problem with armholes stretching out. At least not yet...
------
Sewing keeps me from falling apart at the seams!
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Bernina 1008, Brother SB4138, Brother 1034D, Janome Coverpro 900CPX
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8538/albums
Posted on: 10/6/20 2:15 PM ET
Thank you so much to everyone for the great and detailed replies - very, very helpful! I have learned a lot in the last 48 hours struggling with this dress. I thought I would just jot down what I've learned for anyone that finds themselves in the same predicament.
I actually was making a muslin but didn't have any stay tape so I just cut out pieces of lightweight interfacing in strips and placed those on the dress fabric neckline, shoulders and armholes. Just that experience made me realize why people use stay tape - this process was WAY too time consuming and fiddly. I also placed it all the way to the edge of the fabric and I'm still not sure if this is necessary, but when I trimmed the neckline and armholes the excess came off anyway so it is probably good to place it 1/4" or so in from the raw edge since it is not that wide, just on the stitching line as SewLibra suggested.
I totally agree with you SewLibra that 2 layers is too thick - I did not use anything on the lining and it stretched out, so I know next time if I don't want that to happen and I'm using stay tape on the dress fabric, to just make sure to stay stitch (as CodyMoran suggested). I appreciate your explanation SewLibra of when to use the woven/non-woven and straight/bias tapes - also super helpful!
I am still undecided on what to do with the armholes - the sleeves were gathered so even if it stretched out I didn't notice. It may be different with sleeveless and I'll have to keep that in mind if I make a sleeveless dress.
I keep reminding myself that it is all worth it to be able to wear this lovely soft rayon challis, and I'm sure with all your tips it will be a lot easier next time.
------
I actually was making a muslin but didn't have any stay tape so I just cut out pieces of lightweight interfacing in strips and placed those on the dress fabric neckline, shoulders and armholes. Just that experience made me realize why people use stay tape - this process was WAY too time consuming and fiddly. I also placed it all the way to the edge of the fabric and I'm still not sure if this is necessary, but when I trimmed the neckline and armholes the excess came off anyway so it is probably good to place it 1/4" or so in from the raw edge since it is not that wide, just on the stitching line as SewLibra suggested.
I totally agree with you SewLibra that 2 layers is too thick - I did not use anything on the lining and it stretched out, so I know next time if I don't want that to happen and I'm using stay tape on the dress fabric, to just make sure to stay stitch (as CodyMoran suggested). I appreciate your explanation SewLibra of when to use the woven/non-woven and straight/bias tapes - also super helpful!
I am still undecided on what to do with the armholes - the sleeves were gathered so even if it stretched out I didn't notice. It may be different with sleeveless and I'll have to keep that in mind if I make a sleeveless dress.
I keep reminding myself that it is all worth it to be able to wear this lovely soft rayon challis, and I'm sure with all your tips it will be a lot easier next time.
------
Kate
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