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Posted on: 12/20/20 11:15 AM ET
Please forgive if this topic has been discussed. Am hoping for a simple answer, but it may be more complicated, sigh.
I've noticed recently, in making pullover, woven, sleeveless summer tops and dresses, that I get a vertical dart effect at the center front neckline. Of course, this is more pronounced if the neckline is higher, less if it's lower. If I just want to sew this dart, problem solved, lol. A few times, I actually did sew tiny, sunburst darts at the front neckline to correct this. I'm 65 years old and have never had this problem before, before being in my 20's, 30's and 40's. I used to be able to make up a Big 4 pattern with no fitting issues in the bodice.
Are my back and shoulders getting rounded from age and being on the computer, causing this excess fabric? Will changing the slope of the shoulder seam fix this?
All advice is greatly appreciated and thank you in advance.
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I've noticed recently, in making pullover, woven, sleeveless summer tops and dresses, that I get a vertical dart effect at the center front neckline. Of course, this is more pronounced if the neckline is higher, less if it's lower. If I just want to sew this dart, problem solved, lol. A few times, I actually did sew tiny, sunburst darts at the front neckline to correct this. I'm 65 years old and have never had this problem before, before being in my 20's, 30's and 40's. I used to be able to make up a Big 4 pattern with no fitting issues in the bodice.
Are my back and shoulders getting rounded from age and being on the computer, causing this excess fabric? Will changing the slope of the shoulder seam fix this?
All advice is greatly appreciated and thank you in advance.
------
When a person tells you that you hurt them, you don't get to decide that you didn't. Louis C.K.
When they go low, we go high. Michelle Obama
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. Ernest Hemingway
When they go low, we go high. Michelle Obama
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. Ernest Hemingway
Posted on: 12/20/20 11:42 AM ET
In reply to AuntieShel
This little dart can have many reasons. I can list a few, that come to mind from experience.
If you are using a new-to-your-body pattern, you'll have to tweak the pattern piece a bit. With tissue fitting, or on a muslin, you can determine, how much excess fabric will have to be removed, pinch it out of the edge of the pattern tissue, and simply flatten the paper for the correct cut of fabric.
If you are using a familiar pattern, and still have the problem, aside from adjusting for natural shapeshifting of your body and posture, it could be the choice of fabric, or some incorrectly performed steps of construction.
Are you staystitching necklines correctly, and without distorting the seamline?
Which neckline finish are you using?
Are you sewing the seams on the correct line? Are you changing any seam allowances?
Sometimes, the necklines will be nice and flat only, when stitched as noted in the instructions. Running a seam within the margins of the original seam allowance, instead of the correct seamline, will cause the same problem.
The choice of fabrics for the facings or lining can also make a difference.
Good luck!
If you are using a new-to-your-body pattern, you'll have to tweak the pattern piece a bit. With tissue fitting, or on a muslin, you can determine, how much excess fabric will have to be removed, pinch it out of the edge of the pattern tissue, and simply flatten the paper for the correct cut of fabric.
If you are using a familiar pattern, and still have the problem, aside from adjusting for natural shapeshifting of your body and posture, it could be the choice of fabric, or some incorrectly performed steps of construction.
Are you staystitching necklines correctly, and without distorting the seamline?
Which neckline finish are you using?
Are you sewing the seams on the correct line? Are you changing any seam allowances?
Sometimes, the necklines will be nice and flat only, when stitched as noted in the instructions. Running a seam within the margins of the original seam allowance, instead of the correct seamline, will cause the same problem.
The choice of fabrics for the facings or lining can also make a difference.
Good luck!
Posted on: 12/20/20 12:27 PM ET
In reply to AuntieShel
If you can't find an immediate and trusty answer cut and lap the neckline the desired amount - you will have to make the same adjustment to any lining or facing - also adjust the neckband length for a tee. I would not make one big cut - rather a number of small ones lapping each until you have it the way you want - might be best to test this out on tissue paper before attacking the pattern itself
As to why it is happening - it could be that we are all rounding our shoulders from too much computer use - staying at home has so many drawbacks
I am constantly reminding myself to sit back in my chair - one of those specifically designed to help correct poor back and shoulder posture - I am trying to impart this (gently) to my youngest son who has been working from home since March and will continue to do so for several months yet - he and I have shared back problems and I want to spare him having this problem get worse.

As to why it is happening - it could be that we are all rounding our shoulders from too much computer use - staying at home has so many drawbacks

I am constantly reminding myself to sit back in my chair - one of those specifically designed to help correct poor back and shoulder posture - I am trying to impart this (gently) to my youngest son who has been working from home since March and will continue to do so for several months yet - he and I have shared back problems and I want to spare him having this problem get worse.
Posted on: 12/20/20 12:39 PM ET
In reply to AuntieShel
yes, a rounded back can do this. I do a high round back and it solves problems. It could be something else but try that first.
Re: Vertical dart at center front neckline of bodice (posted on 12/20/20 1:00 PM ET)
Funny you should mention this . Ive noticed it happening to me lately on the center back neckline of patterns I have made before.
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