Sponsors
Sponsors
Moderated by EleanorSews
Posted on: 6/1/21 4:37 PM ET
I always have trouble with sleeves and end up in no-sleeve dresses. I get confused and following some tutorials, sometimes, have too much cap height, and then undo everything.
Can someone explain what is drawback of too much and too short cap height? I did not understand to this date following so many tutorials. On average I read, 3.25 to 4 cap height. I measured myself and should be 5.
When I tried, I did cap height 6, attached, looked bad and uncomfortable to move, then trimmed to 4 ,still it looks odd when set in, so I gave up.
I did sleeves for my daughters dresses few times, and it looked good. I did one of two of my dresses also long back and came out good so overall, i am not comfortable
-- Edited on 6/1/21 at 4:40 PM ET --
Can someone explain what is drawback of too much and too short cap height? I did not understand to this date following so many tutorials. On average I read, 3.25 to 4 cap height. I measured myself and should be 5.
When I tried, I did cap height 6, attached, looked bad and uncomfortable to move, then trimmed to 4 ,still it looks odd when set in, so I gave up.
I did sleeves for my daughters dresses few times, and it looked good. I did one of two of my dresses also long back and came out good so overall, i am not comfortable
-- Edited on 6/1/21 at 4:40 PM ET --
Posted on: 6/2/21 8:57 AM ET
Threads Article on Fitting Sleeves
You were not specific regarding which tutorials failed to help. This Threads Article from 2009 has a practical approach for finding a sleeve that fits and steps required to replicate it. Sleeve mobility is not just about the sleeve itself, but also about the dimensions of the garment that it is set into.
Hope this helps.
You were not specific regarding which tutorials failed to help. This Threads Article from 2009 has a practical approach for finding a sleeve that fits and steps required to replicate it. Sleeve mobility is not just about the sleeve itself, but also about the dimensions of the garment that it is set into.
Hope this helps.
Posted on: 6/2/21 9:24 AM ET
In reply to misha79
My vague explanation. The sleeve does two things at the armhole, (1) wraps around the arm, and (2) wraps up the arm to the shoulder point. Wrapping around the arm is a full circle--there and back. So roughly speaking you might expect the cap width to be twice the cap height. The final thing the sleeve does is it gets sewn into an armhole. The armhole is bigger than the bicep measurement, but not a lot bigger. So this is the final constraint. The width of the sleeve must accommodate the bicep plus ease, but the arc that forms the sleeve cap can't be significantly larger than the armhole. The way to keep that length under control is to shorten the cap height--that's the only freedom in the draft.
So in practice the cap that works is fairly short. A cap that is very high and narrow is more like a patch sealing off the armhole, it doesn't take the volume of the arm into account (the wrapping around the arm).
So in practice the cap that works is fairly short. A cap that is very high and narrow is more like a patch sealing off the armhole, it doesn't take the volume of the arm into account (the wrapping around the arm).
Posted on: 6/2/21 9:33 AM ET
JNE4SL - very nice short explanation. So I should always measure the armhole and cap arc and should be about same. cap /arc can be about 2 inches bigger including seam allowance.
Sleeve draft should not be around cap height then ( height from shoulder to 1 in below armpit). I was drafting the other way.
Since i do not do it often, each time i watch some video and draft sleeve and i do not have specific favourite bookmarked links. I just google.
@bernadette W - I myself do not remember, but I watched a lot on youtube ( kim dave ).
Now, I will draft one sleeve pattern on muslin and test it and keep is safe.
I have problem saving paper patterns.
Sleeve draft should not be around cap height then ( height from shoulder to 1 in below armpit). I was drafting the other way.
Since i do not do it often, each time i watch some video and draft sleeve and i do not have specific favourite bookmarked links. I just google.
@bernadette W - I myself do not remember, but I watched a lot on youtube ( kim dave ).
Now, I will draft one sleeve pattern on muslin and test it and keep is safe.
I have problem saving paper patterns.
Posted on: 6/2/21 9:06 PM ET
In reply to misha79
It's very hard to discuss ease at the cut edge. You must compare the sewing lines. The sleeve typically has about an inch of ease maybe a little more. If you have a way to measure the the height of the armhole, the height of the sleeve cap is usually about 5/6 of that. Definitely shorter than measuring down the arm.
Posted on: 6/2/21 9:06 PM ET
In reply to misha79
duplicate
-- Edited on 6/2/21 at 9:08 PM ET --
-- Edited on 6/2/21 at 9:08 PM ET --
* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it.
Selected Reviews, Classes & Patterns






