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How to draw! (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Posted on: 3/29/22 3:34 PM ET
Suppose you want a horizontal balance line above the waist but below the bust, and there are waist darts on the pattern pointing to the bust. Can you draw a horizontal balance line that crosses the darts, and how? Start at right angles to CF, obvs, but what do you do when you get to the dart? (Yes, I am working on the next draft of my sloper
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Posted on: 3/29/22 3:54 PM ET
In reply to Moodlework
On paper: pin out dart, draw line.
On muslin: sew dart, draw line.
If I wanted to be really proper, rotate dart to shoulder or neckline, draw line, rotate dart back to original position.
-- Edited on 3/29/22 at 3:58 PM ET --
On muslin: sew dart, draw line.
If I wanted to be really proper, rotate dart to shoulder or neckline, draw line, rotate dart back to original position.
-- Edited on 3/29/22 at 3:58 PM ET --
Posted on: 3/29/22 4:20 PM ET
In reply to kayl
Hi kayl, I'd be worried that all the rotating in and back out would introduce more distortion than folding/sewing. How do you avoid that?
Posted on: 3/29/22 4:25 PM ET
Shouldn’t be any distortion if you do it right.
Posted on: 3/29/22 4:52 PM ET
In reply to LauraLexington
Keep your paper flat and pivot to the actual bust point.
so... Draw original dart to bust point. Cut one leg of new dart. Cut a second line from bust point to somewhere the newly drawn line won't cross. Close original dart, allow new dart to open, keeping paper flat. Draw HBL. Close the second dart, allowing the first to open. Back the point of the dart off the actual bust point again.
-- Edited on 3/29/22 at 4:57 PM ET --
so... Draw original dart to bust point. Cut one leg of new dart. Cut a second line from bust point to somewhere the newly drawn line won't cross. Close original dart, allow new dart to open, keeping paper flat. Draw HBL. Close the second dart, allowing the first to open. Back the point of the dart off the actual bust point again.
-- Edited on 3/29/22 at 4:57 PM ET --
Posted on: 4/2/22 9:34 AM ET
I draw my HBLs in across the apex of the bust using a triangle ruler placed against the straight of grain on center front. I do this while the muslin is flat and before I do any darts or other adjustment. The HBL is to let you know if your fit is correct. If the dart is done before, and I draw over it, how do I know if it is placed/angled properly? This has always worked for me. Maybe I see this differently.
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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 4/2/22 11:46 AM ET
In reply to solosmocker
I can’t picture this—can you explain? Doesn’t where the HBL goes from bust point to side seam depend on the size of the bust dart?
-- Edited on 4/2/22 at 11:49 AM ET --
-- Edited on 4/2/22 at 11:49 AM ET --
Posted on: 4/2/22 11:48 AM ET
In reply to kayl
This is the right front of the skirt. The lower (stitched) line is at right angles to CF, as is the upper line from CF to the first dart—also stitched. Then I continued with a straight line across the darts—blue chalk line. Does this look right?
-- Edited on 4/2/22 at 12:15 PM ET --
-- Edited on 4/2/22 at 12:15 PM ET --
Posted on: 4/2/22 3:12 PM ET
In reply to Moodlework
It doesn't depend on the size of the bust dart. I am making a horizontal line across the bodice that goes from one side seam across and thru the apex and cf and thru the apex on the other side and to the other side seam. I then follow thru at the same level around the back bodice. You can put your HBL wherever works for you, above the bust, below, or the way that works for me. I like doing mine in before I put in any bust darts at all.
-- Edited on 4/2/22 at 3:12 PM ET --
ETA: I am a bit confused. I thought we were talking about bust darts and now I see vertical darts and HBLs. FWIW, I draw those HBLs in prior to making the skirt darts as well. Please use the method that you find easiest to understand. That is what is important. I highly suggest Sara Veblen's book on Fitting. She explains all of this very clearly.
-- Edited on 4/2/22 at 3:15 PM ET --
-- Edited on 4/2/22 at 3:17 PM ET --
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-- Edited on 4/2/22 at 3:12 PM ET --
ETA: I am a bit confused. I thought we were talking about bust darts and now I see vertical darts and HBLs. FWIW, I draw those HBLs in prior to making the skirt darts as well. Please use the method that you find easiest to understand. That is what is important. I highly suggest Sara Veblen's book on Fitting. She explains all of this very clearly.
-- Edited on 4/2/22 at 3:15 PM ET --
-- Edited on 4/2/22 at 3:17 PM ET --
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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 4/2/22 3:21 PM ET
I tend to follow along with solosmocker. Having balance lines in place tells a story about construction and fit, at least for me.
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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin
"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown
“Be curious, not judgmental.” Ted Lasso
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